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Posted

This is completely my fault and could serve as a warning to others. I am also looking for some input from other owners about what happened to my Joker. I will be sending a message to Vaprlife on Monday when they re-open for the holidays.

What I did was put the batteries in backwards. :wallbash: That was a complete idiot move on my part. It was dark, I was watching a movie and just not paying attention to what I was doing. The good news is that the safety option for putting in the batteries works! :lol: The sad part is I think the voltage indicator is broken. I have the original trade in model, with the green light and blue light voltage indicator. I could never get the silly thing to work anyways, even with the FV model. The batteries would just die out. I might every once in awhile get a little flash of the blue led right before it died. Most times it was like any other battery needing a re-charge, loss of vapor production.

So this is what is happening now. It works but only the blue led lights up. It appears to still be adjustable. I have turned that little screw forwards and backwards and it all seems to be functioning and adjusting. I am pretty sure it is hitting higher than 5 volts because I had it really hitting hard *cough, cough*. I also compared it to the the VP/PT running at 5 volts. I don't have a volt meter, but will be raiding my dad tool box today. If I am not achieving higher than 5 volts, I will post that information later.

This is what I have done to trouble shoot and possibly fix the problem.

1. Tried both sets of batteries with a full charge.

2. Cleaned all connectors, including the battery connectors and threads.

3. Extended the spring in the bottom.

4. Tried several different types atomizers, I have the 80l fitting, same identical results with 510. BTW it happened when using an 801 atty.

5. Center post is in good position.

6. As a last ditch effort, I put the batteries in backwards again, didn't help and didn't make it worse.

From what I understand, Vaprlife, has now discontinued the voltage indicator option on the new models. The parts were too expensive. It is a good possibility that they might not be able to repair it. I won't know until I talk with them or if it is really worth the repair cost to repair the indicator.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Posted

I would think the $30 repairs service would cover anything, but they may replace the parts with what they use now.

Mine has never worked right, but I've still enjoyed it.... it doesn't cut-off at all. I've run my LiFePO4's down to 1.8V before and it never cut-off. The light goes off, but unit doesn't shut down.

With a 2.2ohm 510 atty, the LiFePO4s can't sustain the 5.2V need to keep the indicator light green, so the only time I see the green light is when I'm using a 3.0ohm cartomizer.

Posted

Thanks Brian. Sounds like we both have had different experiences with the operation and led indicators. I find this interesting. I am not all that upset about it, just a bit disappointed that I could make such a stupid mistake. It seems to be still working properly, just no green led. Very curious to test the voltage now. I may have to pm you on how to use the voltage meter when I find it. I think I have a good clue, but you never know once it ends up in my hands. It would be nice to have it restored to the original set up, but it didn't work before, so I can't justify spending the money to have it repaired unless I did something else to it. I will be interested to know what Vaprlife has to say. I just hope that I didn't do more damage than what I suspect has happened to it.

Posted

The green indicator is never really green anyway, it's more of a cyan because the blue is always lit in the background. When the battery voltage reaches below a certain voltage, the green goes out, causing the cyan to turn completely blue. If that is all that's wrong with it, then I wouldn't worry about it or spend the $30 repair fee.

I use my Joker daily under constant vaping conditions, and here is what I have noticed about mine. When I first got it I did a test where I put it on the meter unloaded and fired it, then using a 3.3ohm power resistor to load it, found a .1volt (point1) drop (which is what is advertised). Now if I do the same test I get a .2volt (point2) drop. Not enough to worry about yet, but I am concerned.

Posted

The green indicator is never really green anyway, it's more of a cyan because the blue is always lit in the background. When the battery voltage reaches below a certain voltage, the green goes out, causing the cyan to turn completely blue. If that is all that's wrong with it, then I wouldn't worry about it or spend the $30 repair fee.

I use my Joker daily under constant vaping conditions, and here is what I have noticed about mine. When I first got it I did a test where I put it on the meter unloaded and fired it, then using a 3.3ohm power resistor to load it, found a .1volt (point1) drop (which is what is advertised). Now if I do the same test I get a .2volt (point2) drop. Not enough to worry about yet, but I am concerned.

Does your shut-off work? I've heard others say that it shuts off when it drops below the set voltage. Mine has never done that and it sound like BirdDog is experiencing the same thing.

Posted

Does your shut-off work? I've heard others say that it shuts off when it drops below the set voltage. Mine has never done that and it sound like BirdDog is experiencing the same thing.

When it turns fully blue I get a short time left, maybe another 10 drags. When the LED stops turning on I get maybe 2 or 3 worthless drags and it's off.

Posted (edited)

Good ol Joker junk... wait... I meant to say junk Joker. :thumbsup:

(By the way... I'm just kidding guys. It's that "computer sarcasm" thing I'm working to better myself on, remember?) :thumbsup:

Edited by DAYVAPE

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