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Posted

Hi guys,

The lady that does my hair wants me to purchase her an e-cig and I believe the THE LADY VYPR-510 is the best fit for her since she smokes almost a pack a day. I need to purchase this tonight, but I just found out that is does not come with an atomizer. Will the low resistance atomizers work on the VYPR or is the VYPR to strong for it???

Also, does anyone know the phone number to VaprLife? My mom ordered a Passthrough from them, but it took forever to get it and I need to receive it before Wednesday. Does it usually take them a long time to receive an order from them?

Thanks,

Celtic

Posted

Hi guys,

The lady that does my hair wants me to purchase her an e-cig and I believe the THE LADY VYPR-510 is the best fit for her since she smokes almost a pack a day. I need to purchase this tonight, but I just found out that is does not come with an atomizer. Will the low resistance atomizers work on the VYPR or is the VYPR to strong for it???

Also, does anyone know the phone number to VaprLife? My mom ordered a Passthrough from them, but it took forever to get it and I need to receive it before Wednesday. Does it usually take them a long time to receive an order from them?

Thanks,

Celtic

Vaprlife is awesome but you are going into the weekend. Looks like its 3.7 volts so an LR atty should be fine (not only fine but fantastic). Remember though, is something fails, there should be a backup. I would go simple first, then add the mods later. Ego is wonderful.

Posted

I agree you might want to start with something smaller and more simple to start with. But to answer your question I don't see why the LR attys wouldn't work. The rule of thumb is to keep LR atomizers away from high voltage units (5 volt and higher)

Posted

Sounds like a sweet set-up. Hope she likes it.

Posted

Great, thank you! I will start her out with regular atomizers.

Thanks,

Celtic

If you are going with the vypr, go low res, and have a few cartos around as well. My point was to go simple on the device, not the atty. if its a first timer, mods can be a little intimidating and you don't want it failing and have to go back to cigs. Hey - the fun here is starting with a t510, having people dig it, then moving up. Ego is amazing, especially with cartos and/or an LR atty!!!

Posted

It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohmdiscovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).

Voltage = current multiplied by resistance

Current = voltage divided by resistance

Resistance = voltage divided by current

Power = voltage multiplied by current

Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

A 3.7v device with a standard atty;

Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps

The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts

We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

A 3.7v device with a LR atty;

3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps

3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a standard atty;

5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps

5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a LR atty;

5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps

5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

A 6v device with a standard atty;

6v / 3ohms = 2amps

6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

A 6v device with a HV atty;

6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps

6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.

Posted

Thanks for the info. I'll have to keep that handy.

Do you think I should re-post this info as it's own thread so it can easily found, instead of burried here?

If so, should it be posted in the general section, or the modding section?

Posted

It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohmdiscovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).

Voltage = current multiplied by resistance

Current = voltage divided by resistance

Resistance = voltage divided by current

Power = voltage multiplied by current

Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

A 3.7v device with a standard atty;

Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps

The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts

We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

A 3.7v device with a LR atty;

3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps

3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a standard atty;

5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps

5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a LR atty;

5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps

5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

A 6v device with a standard atty;

6v / 3ohms = 2amps

6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

A 6v device with a HV atty;

6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps

6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.

Huh? What was that? What do you mean?

Celtic

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