cany Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Im not good (unsure of using) online coil calculators put in my Kanthal A1 28 Ga 3.0 inner diameter for a target ohm of 1.0 it came out too 4 wraps does this seem right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 10 minutes ago, cany said: Im not good (unsure of using) online coil calculators put in my Kanthal A1 28 Ga 3.0 inner diameter for a target ohm of 1.0 it came out too 4 wraps does this seem right? Yup, for a single coil it would be right about 4 wraps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 1 minute ago, Walt said: Yup, for a single coil it would be right about 4 wraps. Thank you Sir Im always uncertain of using calculators Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 @Walt would they be spaced wraps or tight ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Just now, cany said: @Walt would they be spaced wraps or tight ones? You nailed that one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 3 minutes ago, Walt said: You nailed that one! Which one lol Walt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, cany said: Which one lol I use 4 wraps of 28g kanthal around 3mm when I build replacement coils for my kanger OCC coils, and get about1.2 ohms, but the legs are pretty long, depends on leg length. That's with a spaced coil. Edited September 23, 2017 by FXRich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 Just now, FXRich said: I use 4 wraps of 28g kanthal around 3mm when I build replacement coils for my kanger OCC coils, and get about1.2 ohms, but the legs are pretty long, depends on leg length. Thanks Rich I wanna put the build on the Kanger subtank mini deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Just now, cany said: Thanks Rich I wanna put the build on the Kanger subtank mini deck You will probably get about 1 ohm, the legs are shorter on the RBA deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 1 minute ago, FXRich said: You will probably get about 1 ohm, the legs are shorter on the RBA deck. Thank you Sir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Just now, cany said: Thank you Sir When I rebuild a Subtank mini RBA I use 6 wraps of 28g SS 316, and get about .7 ohm coils, so far that has worked the best for me using TC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 4 minutes ago, FXRich said: When I rebuild a Subtank mini RBA I use 6 wraps of 28g SS 316, and get about .7 ohm coils, so far that has worked the best for me using TC. Cool Im gonna try that I love TC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 There is one thing I don't like about using SS 316, after it gets hot it turns black, but it still works the same as when its bright and shiny. I guess its just me liking it to stay new looking. Even after running it through the sonic cleaner it still stays black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 6 minutes ago, FXRich said: There is one thing I don't like about using SS 316, after it gets hot it turns black, but it still works the same as when its bright and shiny. I guess its just me liking it to stay new looking. Even after running it through the sonic cleaner it still stays black. Yup, it does that, lol. When the black starts flaking off I replace it unless I already have because I want to try something different. I've brushed a couple of them with a mini wire brush but can't get all the way around of course. I'm not into the dry burn cleaning method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Just now, Walt said: Yup, it does that, lol. When the black starts flaking off I replace it unless I already have because I want to try something different. I've brushed a couple of them with a mini wire brush but can't get all the way around of course. I'm not into the dry burn cleaning method. Some stoves use SS heating elements, and it doesn't bother them when they turn black, they work for years that way. I have replaced the pipes on my bike with SS pipes, and they haven't turned black, but they are probably a different SS alloy, and they don't get as hot as a heating coil. Walt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 In steam engine what does heat flux mean?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 9 minutes ago, Walt said: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_flux Thanks Noclue what that means Im gonna ignore heat flux lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 Just now, cany said: Thanks Noclue what that means Im gonna ignore heat flux lol Good choice IMHO. I guess it's interesting. If you change materials it remains the same. It only changes with gauge of wire. Smaller wire gauges produce more heat per area of wire. But it takes more length of smaller gauges of wire to match the the area of larger wire. How to take this into consideration while building a coil is beyond level of interest. I'm fine with winding up what I have at hand and seeing if I like the vape. cany 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 OkI did the 4 wrap coil Im not getting nearly as much flavor as I did with my NI build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 1 hour ago, cany said: OkI did the 4 wrap coil Im not getting nearly as much flavor as I did with my NI build Got to keep trying different coils until you find the best one for you. The only kanthal I tried using the subtank mini RBA was 26 g I think I tried 5 wraps around 3mm, can't remember what the ohms was, but it wasn't that great so I went to 28g SS 316, and got what I wanted. The only thing I use kanthal for now is rebuilding OCC coils, and it works well for that. Another difference is I haven't used cotton for over a year now, I use rayon (cellucotton), other people will probably disagree with me, but I think it has a cleaner taste, wicks better, and doesn't taste as nasty if you burn it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 @cany Wow, sorry, I totally missed the question about spaced or contact. I like spaced coils. I am bummed out that you are having so much trouble with this but I don't know how to help. Everybody's tastes are different. I have found that 2x28+36 parallel Stainless fused Clapton wire does the best for me. I can get .5Ω or thereabouts with seven wraps on a 3mm core. That will fit into most of my single coil atties without any problem. They will ramp up real nicely using a single battery mod (75 watts or under) and provide me with plenty of fog and flavor. They also work nicely with TC even just using a simple TCR value. In fact to my surprise, I am getting pretty nice Temp control out of both a Council of Vapor Wraith and a Kanger Dripbox 160 with that build. The Kanger is off on actual temperature, but no big deal. It holds steady. By the same token I just put 2x26+36 Kanthal builds in a Goon last night and that is working very well too. I went with Kanthal because it was a dual coil build and I wanted to get around .25Ω without having a gazillian wraps. Maybe my taste buds are fried but the flavor seems great to me. The fog production is good too. Not like a Smok Cloud Beast King Octo-Coil flame throwing monster but dense per my perception. I think @FXRich has the best answer. I know I had to fumble around a long time before I stumbled across some builds that I really liked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 4 minutes ago, Walt said: Council of Vapor Wraith and a Kanger Dripbox 160 So how do the two squonk boxes compare, I only have the 160 dripbox, and run the SS TC at 360 - 370 and get the vape that I want. I noticed that all my kanger TC mods run the best at that temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) 18 minutes ago, FXRich said: So how do the two squonk boxes compare, I only have the 160 dripbox, and run the SS TC at 360 - 370 and get the vape that I want. I noticed that all my kanger TC mods run the best at that temp. The Council of Vapor is a little closer in actual temp, I think. I am comparing to DNA boxes which seem consistent across the board. The Council of Vapor however is a battery hog. Like flushing a toilet in comparison to the Kanger, even considering that the Kanger is a two battery mod. Both are providing a very stable vape with real good ramp time and both are doing a great job of sucking every last drop of juice out of the coil without dry hitting. My trigger to squonk is flavor muting along with loss of fog. I'm really impressed with both units especially per cost point. I am very much enjoying both of them. The other thing that was weird about the Council of Vapor was that I really could not get a good full dense vape in power mode. I watched the voltage and it was really under powering the atty. I switched to TC thinking "this should be a circus" and viola! The fog came! Never experienced anything quite like it before. Maybe I was doing something wrong. I didn't read the manual. I a guy. I've been vapin the council at 450 and the Kanger at 475. Last few days I've been liking it kinda hot. I go in phases. Tomorrow I may be back down to 375. I never know. Edited September 25, 2017 by Walt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 2 hours ago, Walt said: I've been vapin the council at 450 and the Kanger at 475. Last few days I've been liking it kinda hot. I go in phases. Tomorrow I may be back down to 375. I never know. I notice sometimes vape temp can be a result of the juice that is being vaped. Some flavors like it hotter than others, and I opt to use water instead of extra PG which I think lowers the temp needed to vape. As an example my 70/30 juice consists of 70% VG 20% PG (flavor), and 10% distilled water. I did notice on my dripbox that if the connection isn't good between the tank and pin juice causes the resistance to change, not very much but enough. Usually I go through 2 7ml bottles before I charge the batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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