archiee Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Hello guys, so yesterday i've bought my first TOPBOX Mini ''Black Edition'' from Kangertech and i have couple of questions. If i want to buy new replacement clapton coils 1,2 ohm what do i have to pay attention to? And whats the real difference in 0,5 ohm coils and the 1,2 ohm ones. Does the coil for Toptank/Subtank series would match my TOPTANK Mini? And whats the actual difference of using 0,5 SS coil, 0,5 Clapton coil and the 0,15 Ni 200 coil (TC)? I will appreciate every kind of help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 From the information I googled, you will need one 18650 battery for your TOPBOX mini. That means you need to pay special attention to which battery you put into it, not just any 18650 will do. If you're going to be using the 0.5 coil, you will need the right battery. @jasonculp @Earthling789 Either one of the above should be here shortly to give you a lesson on batteries and safety. We emphasize safety a LOT here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 So basically your battery is what depends on your coil. At a full charge your battery is 4.2v which would fire a 0.5 ohm coil with 8.4amps and 35.28 watts. So you need a battery that is rated over 9 amps. As you use your device the volts will go down. At 3.7v you will be firing 7.4amps and 27.38 watts. With a 1.2 ohm coil at 4.2v you are only firing at 3.5 amps and 14.7 watts. So you definatly want to make sure your battery can handle the amps. Here is a great list of batts. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/image-jpg.526293/ Never stop asking questions! Here is a great ohm calculator for double checking your safety. http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 7 hours ago, archiee said: Hello guys, so yesterday i've bought my first TOPBOX Mini ''Black Edition'' from Kangertech and i have couple of questions. If i want to buy new replacement clapton coils 1,2 ohm what do i have to pay attention to? And whats the real difference in 0,5 ohm coils and the 1,2 ohm ones. Does the coil for Toptank/Subtank series would match my TOPTANK Mini? And whats the actual difference of using 0,5 SS coil, 0,5 Clapton coil and the 0,15 Ni 200 coil (TC)? I will appreciate every kind of help On the coils, it all depends on the type of vape you enjoy. I am not really familiar with the Kanger's Clapton Coil, but most Clapton's require more wattage are a bit slower to heat up and stay hotter longer. They seem to produce a bit more flavor than "standard" coils. Normally if you are a direct lung inhaler the .5 ohm coils work best, and if you are a mouth to lung hitter you will probably like the 1.2 ohm coils better. From what I am reading the Clapton, and SSOCC (stainless steel organic cotton) coils are actually use Kanthal or NiChrome wire which are best used in Power Mode/Wattage. While the Ni200 are only to be used with Temp Control. My advice is to stick with the Power Mode for a bit, until you get used to your mod, then try the Ni200 and Temp Control when you get accustom to the mod/tank. Only you can figure out the best numbers to use with your personal preferences, your tank, and your juice. I start with my favorite juice, prime up a new coil, fill the tank, let it sit for a while, make a few pulls with the air slots closed not firing the mod, then set it at about 15 - 20 watts and try it. I go up until it gets where I like it. If it tastes burnt, turn it down. As for what you really have to pay attention to on the coils, only that you are using the correct coil in the correct mode. They will all work great on that mod. @VaporTron pretty much nailed the battery end of things. With this type of mod, you coil has no relation to battery safety, only the Wattage you have it set at. I personally don't recommend anyone going over 50 watts or so with a single 18650 mod unless you take a lot of precautions, such as buying special batteries, and a lot of them. At 75Watts (maximum) ÷ 3.4V (normal low battery cut out) = 22.05 +10% for efficiency of the mod 24.26Amps so you would need a good 25 - 30 amp battery. Please don't believe the wrappers that people put on batteries, there are very few that can actually handle 30 Amps and they do it at a cost of capacity (they don't stay charged as long) True 30A batteries are the LG HB2, HB4, and HB6. Just under these would be the Sony VTC4. With the Subtank Mini line of tanks you probably will not be able to use more than 50 watts. At 50 watts you are only looking at 16 Amps battery draw. This really opens up your battery choices. The batteries I recommend that will work great in my personal favorite order is: Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, Samsung 25R, LG HE4 or LG HE2. Please feel free to come back and ask questions, if you have any! VaporTron, FXRich and Tam 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 I also have a Kanger 75w topbox mini, and the Clapton coil is not a true Clapton coil, it consists of a single strand of wire, a Clapton coil is a single strand of wire wraped with another wire, usually a lighter gauge of wire. I may have a defective coil that was put together like a normal coil, but don't think so. You can use the same coils that were used on the original Subtank mini, even the RBA. The RBA included with the kit has smaller holes than the newer version of the RBA for the Subtank mini. Other than that the mod itself is a very good mod. The ssocc coils are supposed to be SS so they can be used in TC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) After checking the Kanger Clapton coil with a magnifying glass I have discovered 3 of the 7 wraps are Clapton, I guess they are semi Clapton coils after all. The Clapton coils are Kanthal. Edited January 31, 2016 by FXRich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 57 minutes ago, FXRich said: The ssocc coils are supposed to be SS so they can be used in TC. I really wish Kanger would clarify this! Busardo said in a video the other day that they were Kanthal with a SS body. I have also read that they were NiChrome, and of course SS. I have a couple I guess I need to take them apart and see if I can tell.....I doubt I can tell with any certainty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 According to Sweet Vapes they are Nichrome, but other sites say they are SS, Kanger online say they are SS Vape NW hints at them being SS, Kanger doesn't respond to e-mails, My guess is 304 SS. Kanthal is magnetic, but Nichrome is not, so using a magnet to check them won't work. The only way to know is to measure the diameter, and check the ohms to see what the best match would be. jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 I didn't figure on using a ssocc coil that I have so I dismantled it. After cutting off the leads that were attached to it I ended up with 82mm of 0.40mm wire (26 gauge) I installed it in a Kanger RBA (1 big loop) put it on 75w TC mod in watt mode. I got a 0.52 reading. which closely matches what 317L would be. Nichrome would be about 0.7 SS304 would be about 0.45 and 316L would be about 0.47 So my unscientific study leads me to believe it is probably 317L or possibly 316L It is non magnetic so it can't be SS430. 0 jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Well now it is clear as mud! ( I guess we were doing this at the same time!) It looks like the coil is a NR-R-NR coil. It is welded in 2 spots. The outer wire is very soft and magnetic, the resistance wire is much stiffer and non-magnetic. The best I can measure with what I have at hand the wire is .27mm or between 29 and 30 gauge. The resistance part (only) is very close to 40mm and measures .44 ohms. Messing with steam engine nothing comes close to the numbers except SS304. Please note that I am measuring this digital calipers.... and a 510 building ohm meter, that has questionable accuracy. (I personally have no faith in any personal use ohm meter below .5 ohms) * Wow we came up with quite different answers! I am working with a .5 ohm SSOCC coil that came in a NEBOX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I used a digital micrometer a little more accurate but I measured at 0.40mm and 26g I used my 75w TC mod to check resistance, and rechecked it with 120w TC mod, same reading, I also started with a .5 coil that came with 75w TC topbox kit. One thing we do agree on is its probably SS. I went a step farther and used my piece and made a coil the same way I make a coil with 28g 316L came out with .35 ohms, steam engine said it should be 0.36 ohms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 8 minutes ago, FXRich said: I used a digital micrometer a little more accurate but I measured at 0.40mm and 26g I used my 75w TC mod to check resistance, and rechecked it with 120w TC mod, same reading, I also started with a .5 coil that came with 75w TC topbox kit. One thing we do agree on is its probably SS. I went a step farther and used my piece and made a coil the same way I make a coil with 28g 316L came out with .35 ohms, steam engine said it should be 0.36 ohms Was your wire welded? There is quite a bit of difference in the properties between the legs and coil on mine. I cut mine at the welds and just measured the resistance of the "coil" wire. I am like you and think it has to be SS of some type. I measured my resistance in a simular way. I did it on a Velocity deck in a single loop. All I had handy to check it was the building ohm meter. I had 5 or 6 digital TC mods within arms reach...but didn't think to try one 16 minutes ago, FXRich said: I used a digital micrometer a little more accurate I normally measure bearings and gaskets....lol bearings are generally a standard size and the caliper works fine. On gaskets if we can get witing a 32nd we are doing pretty good! Heck I use a stainless steel pocket rule for most of my stuff. FXRich 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Yes mine had non resistance leads welded on, but I cut them off like you did. I sent Kanger another e-mail but not holding my breath for a answer. When I used the wire to build a coil and used steam engine the result matched predictions within 0.01 ohms using 26g 316L or 317L looks like I might have been wrong on guessing they used 304. one difference is I had 83mm between welds, they probably used a lighter gauge in your coil. Edited February 1, 2016 by FXRich jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I don't think I have another one to mess with, but i would like to try them in SS mode now! I don't know how the NR legs would react. I guess it would help if I had a SubTank.... I PIF all of mine. All I have is the NEBOX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 40mm don't leave you enough to build a coil, I had 83mm between welds. I wonder if the Kanger Clapton coils use NR leads welded on? I would dissect mine but plan on trying it some day. jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Some things so complicated too me lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Cany if you like uncomplicated you would like the Kanger 75w TC mod. In power mode you adjust the watts, and in TC mode the only thing that is adjustable is the temperature. When you put a tank on it you will be asked whether its a different coil, just push the yes button or the no button. The only user error I can see happening is to pick the wrong mode for the coil you are using. jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 14 hours ago, FXRich said: Cany if you like uncomplicated you would like the Kanger 75w TC mod. In power mode you adjust the watts, and in TC mode the only thing that is adjustable is the temperature. When you put a tank on it you will be asked whether its a different coil, just push the yes button or the no button. The only user error I can see happening is to pick the wrong mode for the coil you are using. Thanks Rich My invader mini works like that My Rx200 Realoux does all that fancy stuff dont think Im going to attempt too use it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 User error caught up to me, I changed the coil in a Nano put a factory 1.2 horizontal coil in it chose new coil and fired it up, got my first burnt taste in TC mode. I forgot to change from SS mode to NiCr mode. Now I have some cotton to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now