Kanger subtank keeps burning

[Jvapes]

Hello, before I get started I just want to clear up a few things. I always prime my coils correctly, let it sit, for 10 minutes, put juice on the cotton, everything I'm supposed to do. Iver these last 2 months I've had an annoying problem with my Kanger subtank. The old 60 watt OCC coils constantly burned, no matter which wattage and which mod I tried it on, and now the same thing with the new oval shaped ones. Sometimes it's a brand new coil, first hit and every hit after is burnt, I've gone through so many coils and so much money I need to figure out what is going wrong. I consistently put my tank through an atomic tank cleaner once a week. I've also tried the needle trick where you poke the cotton inwards to the coil. I took it to 2 local vape shops and they can't figure it out. It happens on all PG/VG mixes but more so on the 70/30 mixes. This is really annoying and any advice would help, thanks!

[Earthling789]

I've had this happen more than once on the new vertical coils, and one of the SSOCC as well.  Despite plucking the cotton a bit, priming, and allowing them to soak for hours...

I've yet to have one  of the older horizontal coils give me this problem, however...

First of all, what Wattage are you starting these coils out with?  Some juices cannot tolerate high Watts.  My all-day-vape likes 12.5-18W, depending on the tank/mod combo, but using the 1.2 Ohm horizontal coils, I can push them to 18W (after the first dozen hits @ 14W).  If I'm using the vertical coils, they are toasted if I go above 15W.  Your juice has limits, despite what the recommended range of the coil says.

Regardless of anything... start low on Wattage, vape, bump Wattage up... vape, repeat... once you get a slight burnt taste, turn the Wattage down 0.5-1.5 Watts, and that is the sweet-spot for that juice.  Once you burn cotton/coil, it is shot, and if you continue vaping with a burnt coil, or burn it badly enough the first time... the burnt flavor is transferred to the juice, and you'll taste burnt flavor even with a perfectly good replacement coil.

BTW, Welcome to Vapor Talk!

[Jvapes]

The one difference between us is I'm using the .5 coils.. Not the 1.2s. I never had any  problem running any juices for the past six months other than these last two months at any of the recommended wattages which is I believe a low of 30 watts and positive it tops out at 60 watts

[Earthling789]

I normally use the 1.2 Ohm coils, but also use the 0.5 and 0.15 Ni200 coils as well... Resistance will affect the amount of power you will use, but the juice is still the key!  Despite the range marked on the coil, the juice may not vaporize correctly (ie. burn) at higher Watts.  Despite any recommended Wattage, always start low and work your way up until you find the sweet-spot as described above.  Some of my juices tolerate 60W @ 1.2 Ohms, but some only tolerate (taste good) at 22W @ 0.5 Ohms.  You cannot go by what the coil says, or recommendations from charts or even friends... you have to adjust to suit your juice, and your tastes.

[FXRich]

I don't use standard coils in my subtank mini, I use the RBA with .5 coils and if I get above 15w it tastes burnt. I normally use 30PG/70VG mixes and usually stay around 10 - 12 watts and get a good vape. Like Earthling says you can't go by what is printed on the coil, start low and work your way up. I have noticed on TC mode the watts don't pulse over 13 watts when its set at 450f using a .5 coil. Once you burn the cotton its over for that coil, you have to replace the cotton or the coil.

[Bebop]

All good info above

 

One of the keys to higher wattages is wicking.  I'm sorry but the premade standard coils just aren't that great at wicking, especially the verticals at higher vg mixes than 50/50. This is just my own observation. With the RBA section I can improve the wicking but even still depending on the juice and coil resistance with a basic .8 ohm build I rarely can push a juice past 18W.  On a .5 or .4 ohm build wattage can go up but remember, power or watttage is a function of voltage against coil resistance. It follows that a lower ohm coil will naturally take higher wattage.  This is why the age old process of boosting power til you get "burnt" and then backing off from that is still the best method for dialing in a wattage.  

All you can do to get the best advantage is improve the wicking and that already varies depending on juice consistency (viscosity) no matter the pg/vg ratio.  And there is only so much you can do with a premade coil in that regard. 

Just my opinion

Incidentally, this is why dripping is so popular since you are "artificially" juicing up the coil directly and so therefore you can up the wattage with great success since you are not relying solely on wicking ability.

[VapeAuthority]

Hi Jvapes,

I've been using my subtank for well over a year now, I still get dry hits when I chain vape. One trick i'm doing is to draw hard on the tank without any power, you'll immediately see bubbles from the side juice holes come up. I've also experimented with the length of cotton when wicking. I find that shorter wicks are better for version 2, and a tiny bit of cotton on the juice hole for version 1 works well.

I generally vape around 18 watts when i have a single .4 coil inside the tank. I space my coil as it works better than a micro coil.