VaporTron Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 So i got this sony vtc4 from a b&m over here and when i vape sometimes it feels like it is vibrating a lil bit. Maybe this is the button rubbing the negative side and causing a "slide"? Has anyone encountered this? Also mod is heating up but maybe because i am sub ohming (.3+/-ohms) I used a smok protection chip but it was only firing for 1 second so i took it out and now fires as long as i want but this has happened about 5 times over the last 48 hours, at different voltages with different coil resistances. Also i take the battery out and it is cool to the touch. Wtf vape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Is this Pulse Width Modulation? Also known as "rattle snaking"..... Google it and see if that is what you are experiencing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Uh, the rattlesnake effect (for those that never experienced it) is a pulse in vapor production from these PWM APVs. It is sensed by hearing alone. The rattlesnake effect is loudest when is the power button is pressed without anything contacting the drip tip. The rattlesnake sound is related to the 33hz chips used in the APVs, but is nowhere close to being an audible 33hz tone. The sound actually seems to cycle a few times per second. The rattlesnake has no effect on vapor quality that I can detect. Nobody is going to see a difference in a coil glowing with DC power pulsed 33 times per second compared to a coil powered by pure DC. The same goes with vapor produced by the coil. Unless you just don't like the sound, the rattlesnake effect is a non-issue. So i found that on rattlesnaking but no that is not what i am experiencing. When i am pulling a toot the button will vibrate a little and feel hot. Not the atty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 I have a mech/tube mod also sometimes the button on the very bottom gets so hot but when i take the battery out it is so cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 What is the resistance of your atomizer and what battery are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Sony vtc4, coils vary. See OP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Sorry...I didn't see the original post about the .3Ω load and Sony VTC4. I just saw the post about the mech mod. Anyway, if I'm not mistaken, the Smoke Vapesafe Fuse (if that's what you're using) is a 7A fuse, and .3Ω on a fresh (4.2v) battery is around 14A, so that's why it's cutting you off. As far as your other issues, I have no clue. VaporTron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Thanks for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) One more thing...due to their limited availability and high price, Sony VTCs are probably the most faked/counterfeited batteries on the planet. The fakes could have decent cores, or they could be accidents waiting to happen. Many legit dealers have been fooled into stocking the fakes in the past (or so I've heard). Here's a link from BudgetLightForum.com that might help in distinguishing fakes from the real deal. Here's another informative article from Sun Vapers: http://www.sun-vapers.com/how-to-spot-a-fake-sony-vtc5-battery/ Edited December 9, 2015 by Rixter VaporTron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Do they make a 30a fuse? U think will stop my issues? Is my battery bad? Is this atty bad? Did that trip the fuse? I tried like 10 times before i removed the fuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) Assuming that you fully understand Ohm's Law, if you are able to confirm your atty's .3Ω resistance with an ohmmeter, then that probably isn't the problem. The main thing is to make sure that your battery can put out more continuous amps than your load is pulling, and if you're unsure of your battery's legitimacy, then you can't know if it can do that. I personally avoid the Sony VTCs solely because there are so many fakes out there. As far as higher amp safety fuses, I really don't know of anything any higher than the VapeSafe. In fact, due to a venting battery a few months ago, I shelved all of my mechs in favor of regulated box mods. I've heard of quite a few mechs blowing up over the years, but I've yet to hear of a single regulated box mod popping. BTW...what mod are you referring to in the OP? Edited December 9, 2015 by Rixter jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Sigelei silver dragon mod from kidney puncher. Vct4 is real based on those sites you sent. I always double check my coils and battery level with a multimeter and give plenty of headroom. Rixter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 I should also mention at this point that just because someone's using a regulated box mod doesn't mean that a battery won't vent if pushed too hard...Ohm's Law still applies. There's just more safety features in the circuitry of regulated mods to help prevent catastrophes. VaporTron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Im getting a tc regulated mod asap...maybe the evic vt Rixter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 The lead wires on a multimeter have resistance, I have a Fluke 87 and the leads have a .3ohm resistance, its easy to find out the resistance just by touching the probes together for a couple of seconds. on my multimeter if the resistance says .3ohms that means its a dead short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporTron Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Absolutely, My greenlee dm-20 has a .1 resistance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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