FXRich Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 From what I read if you get Ti too hot it will ignite, and above 700 degrees it will give off titanium oxide which they say is not good for you, in a TC use it shouldn't get close to that temp. So no dry burning I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 6 minutes ago, FXRich said: From what I read if you get Ti too hot it will ignite, and above 700 degrees it will give off titanium oxide which they say is not good for you, in a TC use it shouldn't get close to that temp. So no dry burning I guess. That is what I have heard too. I quit dry burning (even Kanthal) a while back. I really don't miss it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 I have also heard that Ni200 needs a break in period, and Ti doesn't, don't know if that's true or not. I quit dry burning for the most part also. I use a sonic cleaner instead. I have 5 extra subtank RBAs so I wait until I have at least 3 to be cleaned before I do it. That way they get cleaned completely instead of just the coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 17 minutes ago, FXRich said: I have also heard that Ni200 needs a break in period, and Ti doesn't, don't know if that's true or not. I quit dry burning for the most part also. I use a sonic cleaner instead. I have 5 extra subtank RBAs so I wait until I have at least 3 to be cleaned before I do it. That way they get cleaned completely instead of just the coil. I really feel like that is correct. The Ni200 coils don't taste as good when you first install them. I wait so long to change coils/rebuild, anything works better I have been wanting to get an ultrasonic cleaner. I had one years ago, we used it to clean fuel nozzles on PT6 turbine engines...probably wouldn't be any good for my vape gear, if I could find it. I think the next time I start buying stuff, it will be a cleaner, and a few more bases...and a backup NEBOX, and some DIY stuff...never mind.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) 43 minutes ago, jasonculp said: That is what I have heard too. I quit dry burning (even Kanthal) a while back. I really don't miss it. And who says vaping saves you money. I don't see it that way. I spent almost $300 this month so far on vape gear. I quoted the wrong post didn't I Edited November 25, 2015 by FXRich jasonculp and Earthling789 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthling789 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 1 hour ago, FXRich said: And who says vaping saves you money. I don't see it that way. I spent almost $300 this month so far on vape gear. Fortunately it does over the "long-haul"... unless you get shiny-itus or empty-pocketus Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 57 minutes ago, Earthling789 said: Fortunately it does over the "long-haul"... unless you get shiny-itus or empty-pocketus I have a pretty bad case of shiny-itus, but I still feel like I have saved quite a lot of money. Not to mention all of the other benefits! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Thinking back there were some months that I didn't spend anything on vape gear or juice. DIY does save a lot on juice. This month I stocked up on VG and flavors, and bought a couple of mods, and some 18650s. Looking in my stash box I have a lot of unopened stuff including 2 subtank minis, and I don't want to count the KPT2 tanks and KPT minis. Trouble is when I order a mod I order tanks to go with it and than just use the tanks I have. Maybe I do have shinyitus. But at least I can breath now without coughing up a lung. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthling789 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 8 hours ago, jasonculp said: I have a pretty bad case of shiny-itus, but I still feel like I have saved quite a lot of money. Not to mention all of the other benefits! 7 hours ago, FXRich said: Maybe I do have shinyitus. But at least I can breath now without coughing up a lung. Shinyitis is treatable with extensive therapy, lol... its those "other benefits" that far outweigh any money we spend on gear jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 11 hours ago, FXRich said: I have also heard that Ni200 needs a break in period, and Ti doesn't, don't know if that's true or not. I quit dry burning for the most part also. I use a sonic cleaner instead. I have 5 extra subtank RBAs so I wait until I have at least 3 to be cleaned before I do it. That way they get cleaned completely instead of just the coil. NI defiantly gets better when it breaks in at least for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iQuit Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 "Shiny-tus" disease is a common mis-diagnosis. There is a vaping mantra that you should have back-ups, for back-ups, for back-ups. @FXRich I tried Ti build before and I did not like it. Mainly because I could not (or should say would not) dry burn it and it is a hit and miss. There were only twice that I got it right, and it was awesome, but could not find that sweet spot again. Non-contact coil build was a no -go for me as I was using 24ga. Despite needing less wraps, the wire gauge I was using requires huge spacing because it was harder to bend. I tried TFV4 stock Ti coils but being a dual coil, it needed a lot of power. On IPV4, I was running it 80J (Ti mode) and still hardly produces anything vapor, let alone flavor. I stick to Ni200, SS or Kanthal only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 I ordered 26g, and 28g Ti wire and a roll of 30g Ni200 wire, and a roll of 28g SS 316L wire. I will find out what works for me. Don't think I'll try the SS with TC but I want to see how it compares to Kanthal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Lately my Ni coils have been finicky and I'm not sure what I'm running in to... My coils all meter out about .15 But after I run tthem for a bit, they peter out. They start off strong, break in after 10 or so hits, chug along for a short while then promptly die out. The resistance seems to change I hit the temp ceiling fast and it stays there. I inspect the coil and it looks fine. Now recently I have made a few changes- I'm using the evic VTC mini more. I also changed to cotton bacon. Im a little stumped and I don't know why my Ni coils are collapsing so soon, sometimes within 1 tankful. When it's great, it's great but I've gone blind and I don't know what to look for. I use the ST mini exclusively for TC. Am I just having a bad hair day? Have any of you run in to this and what did you discover about TC that makes or breaks it. Right now I'm sucking down a twin kanthal build and loving it until I sort this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 I use the st mini for my NI too on the invader This gonna seem weird butttt when I take the yank off or change the batt it shown new/same coil I hit same fire it for about 2 secs then I unscrew tank a bit so I get the message again then I hit new coil the ohms jump up a bit I let it sit until the screen goes blank then hit it and I get a much better vape and the ohms go down. Could be my invaders are posessd I dunno Bebop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shen_long86 Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 This mod looks promising for t.c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 2 hours ago, cany said: I use the st mini for my NI too on the invader This gonna seem weird butttt when I take the yank off or change the batt it shown new/same coil I hit same fire it for about 2 secs then I unscrew tank a bit so I get the message again then I hit new coil the ohms jump up a bit I let it sit until the screen goes blank then hit it and I get a much better vape and the ohms go down. Could be my invaders are posessd I dunno Yes. This is what I'm talking about, lol. I get to the point where I'm wondering why this and why that. Jiggling, reconnecting, trying different batteries... Oddly enough, I have the least of my problems with the mini Invader. Im pretty sure it's a wicking/coil issue over a board issue. Er.....or possibly airflow.....er....I mean, airflow and wicking.....and coil diameter.....and temp setting.....ya, temp setting. That and juice flow.....and....wattage. Can't forget wattage.....and....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 When I decided to give TC a try my research led me to believe Ni200 is very soft and can get smashed very easy, so going to give Ti a chance first, its a bit harder, and holds it shape better according to what I read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 9 hours ago, Bebop said: Lately my Ni coils have been finicky and I'm not sure what I'm running in to... My coils all meter out about .15 But after I run tthem for a bit, they peter out. They start off strong, break in after 10 or so hits, chug along for a short while then promptly die out. The resistance seems to change I hit the temp ceiling fast and it stays there. I inspect the coil and it looks fine. Now recently I have made a few changes- I'm using the evic VTC mini more. I also changed to cotton bacon. Im a little stumped and I don't know why my Ni coils are collapsing so soon, sometimes within 1 tankful. When it's great, it's great but I've gone blind and I don't know what to look for. I use the ST mini exclusively for TC. Am I just having a bad hair day? Have any of you run in to this and what did you discover about TC that makes or breaks it. Right now I'm sucking down a twin kanthal build and loving it until I sort this out. I hate to ask this, but have you locked in your base resistance? My mini did great with Ni200 but really sucked at Ti. I would have to max out the Temp to get it warm enough to vape (with Ti). I personally want to think it is a board issue. I have read about some people having some issues with consistency. I never had one with mine, but some people have. Also have you done the firmware updates for it? It seemed to help some issues. 7 hours ago, shen_long86 said: This mod looks promising for t.c. I hope they made some improvements over the NEBOX. I am not convinced this thing is limiting like it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 2 hours ago, jasonculp said: I hate to ask this, but have you locked in your base resistance? My mini did great with Ni200 but really sucked at Ti. I would have to max out the Temp to get it warm enough to vape (with Ti). I personally want to think it is a board issue. I have read about some people having some issues with consistency. I never had one with mine, but some people have. Also have you done the firmware updates for it? It seemed to help some issues. Wow. Good point. I never lock in the base resistance. In fact, on the evic the resistance jumps around like crazy, especially when I'm hitting it. I never thought to lock in the resistance. That should keep the power consistant (to THAT resistance). I never had that problem with the mini Invader. I'll try that. Thanks Jason! I also have a roll of the tempered Ni which I haven't tried yet. That should help it stabilize physically. I have long suspected that the soft Ni coils change shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 What is tempered NI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) 18 hours ago, cany said: What is tempered NI? From a website that carries it Rebuilding with Ni200 Nickel just got a little easier. Tempered Ni200 nickel wire has the feel and consistency of Kanthal A1 wire, but almost exactly the same resistance as annealed Ni200 wire. Recommended for temperature controlled devices & chips. Available in 22 AWG, 24 AWG, 26AWG, 28AWG, 30AWG & 32AWG Tempered for a more firm end product Perfect for temperature controlled devices MUCH easier to build with than annealed Ni200 NOTE: Heating this wire above 750C (1382 F) will effectively anneal the wire and make soft. I dont know why i can't read that.....I don't know what I did there. I give up.... Edited December 5, 2015 by Tam There. How's that, Bebop? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Nice I might try too pick some up and try it It would sure make building NI easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 http://youtu.be/zeyf3bWbLxI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 41 minutes ago, Bebop said: http://youtu.be/zeyf3bWbLxI Looks good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 On Fri Dec 04 2015 07:34:35 GMT-0800, Bebop said: From a website that carries it Rebuilding with Ni200 Nickel just got a little easier. Tempered Ni200 nickel wire has the feel and consistency of Kanthal A1 wire, but almost exactly the same resistance as annealed Ni200 wire. Recommended for temperature controlled devices & chips. Available in 22 AWG, 24 AWG, 26AWG, 28AWG, 30AWG & 32AWG Tempered fo I dont know why i can't read that.....I don't know what I did there. I give up.... Thank you Tam. I missed that you fixed it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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