Let's Talk Temp Control

[DragonGunner]

Let me know if it's any good. I may just get that one myself. I can't wait to get and try my new Squape RS. Vape mail finally comes in tomorrow afternoon. Been waiting a super long month.

[iQuit]

I went ahead and reordered.  I am not sure if it was a good idea, but I did it.

I am still chasing the "perfect" tank.  From early reviews, I doubt this is it, but it might be a small step up from what I am using.

I am also seeing the TFV4 Mini is fixing to hit the market....It could be interesting.  I sure like the 22mm better than the 25mm.

Yeah... the lengths we go through in search of that "perfect" tank. I think I mentioned to you before I was skipping the first 2 batches, and I went against my own advise. LMAO

I'll start with the cons...

• Crunchy threading - when I screwed the deck onto the tank, I thought my coils were hitting the chimney because I cannot screw it in. I went from 3.0 ID down to 2.0 ID using 22g through 28g K1 before realizing it was the crunchy threading.
• Juice Flow Control - I ditched it. One less moving part to deal with, and I like mine wide open anyway. It works, but if this tank had the raised knurling similar to Uwell Crown, then it would have been golden for those wanting to tweak juice flow. Although this feature helps with leaking during top filling it, I just turn the atty upside down before opening up the AFC.
• Top Fill - hard to open and due to lack of knurling, and crunchy threads.

Pros:

• Flavor does seem much better in both single and dual coil decks, but I am using new juice at the moment and have not tried  other proven flavors yet on this tank. But others do report better flavor with this tank too.

I am sure I'll find more pros as I play with this tank some more, and I did not want to recite features already listed in ads.   I like vertical builds on this tank though. Wicking it is PITA but worth it for me. Pic shows a 3mm ID 24G K1 but I settled with 2mm 27G before I realized the threading on mine is janky.  TFV4 Mini might be a good tank. I am curious about the clapton RBA deck, and hope it is interchangeable with TFV4

[jasonculp]

Yeah... the lengths we go through in search of that "perfect" tank. I think I mentioned to you before I was skipping the first 2 batches, and I went against my own advise. LMAO

I'll start with the cons...

• Crunchy threading - when I screwed the deck onto the tank, I thought my coils were hitting the chimney because I cannot screw it in. I went from 3.0 ID down to 2.0 ID using 22g through 28g K1 before realizing it was the crunchy threading.
• Juice Flow Control - I ditched it. One less moving part to deal with, and I like mine wide open anyway. It works, but if this tank had the raised knurling similar to Uwell Crown, then it would have been golden for those wanting to tweak juice flow. Although this feature helps with leaking during top filling it, I just turn the atty upside down before opening up the AFC.
• Top Fill - hard to open and due to lack of knurling, and crunchy threads.

Pros:

• Flavor does seem much better in both single and dual coil decks, but I am using new juice at the moment and have not tried  other proven flavors yet on this tank. But others do report better flavor with this tank too.

I am sure I'll find more pros as I play with this tank some more, and I did not want to recite features already listed in ads.   I like vertical builds on this tank though. Wicking it is PITA but worth it for me. Pic shows a 3mm ID 24G K1 but I settled with 2mm 27G before I realized the threading on mine is janky.  TFV4 Mini might be a good tank. I am curious about the clapton RBA deck, and hope it is interchangeable with TFV4

 

Thank you for the information!  I really am not sure my money wouldn't have been better spent elsewhere, but, I will find out when it gets here.  My has been "shipping" for days.  It is probably still sitting on their counter with a label on it...

[Squid]

Just put a nickel coil in my subtank mini and spun it on my IPV4s. Flavor is awesome, and chain vaping it doesnt seem to affect  it like the standard coils. I will update the progress. If  it keeps up like this I will be ordering more subtanks and some packages of nickel coils.

 

[cany]

Just put a nickel coil in my subtank mini and spun it on my IPV4s. Flavor is awesome, and chain vaping it doesnt seem to affect  it like the standard coils. I will update the progress. If  it keeps up like this I will be ordering more subtanks and some packages of nickel coils.

 

I chain vape my Mini all day long with NI no issues at all except when my Mod gets possessed

[jasonculp]

Just put a nickel coil in my subtank mini and spun it on my IPV4s. Flavor is awesome, and chain vaping it doesnt seem to affect  it like the standard coils. I will update the progress. If  it keeps up like this I will be ordering more subtanks and some packages of nickel coils.

 

It is a good package, just be careful not to run it too high.  I was trying to run in the 40 watt range at 475 and it was getting "hot leg".  I could see it glowing red through the air flow control.  I really don't like to let my coils, much less the legs glowing.  It didn't seem to be a problem at lower wattage/temp.

Just a heads up!

Yeah... the lengths we go through in search of that "perfect" tank. I think I mentioned to you before I was skipping the first 2 batches, and I went against my own advise. LMAO

I'll start with the cons...

• Crunchy threading - when I screwed the deck onto the tank, I thought my coils were hitting the chimney because I cannot screw it in. I went from 3.0 ID down to 2.0 ID using 22g through 28g K1 before realizing it was the crunchy threading.
• Juice Flow Control - I ditched it. One less moving part to deal with, and I like mine wide open anyway. It works, but if this tank had the raised knurling similar to Uwell Crown, then it would have been golden for those wanting to tweak juice flow. Although this feature helps with leaking during top filling it, I just turn the atty upside down before opening up the AFC.
• Top Fill - hard to open and due to lack of knurling, and crunchy threads.

Pros:

• Flavor does seem much better in both single and dual coil decks, but I am using new juice at the moment and have not tried  other proven flavors yet on this tank. But others do report better flavor with this tank too.

I am sure I'll find more pros as I play with this tank some more, and I did not want to recite features already listed in ads.   I like vertical builds on this tank though. Wicking it is PITA but worth it for me. Pic shows a 3mm ID 24G K1 but I settled with 2mm 27G before I realized the threading on mine is janky.  TFV4 Mini might be a good tank. I am curious about the clapton RBA deck, and hope it is interchangeable with TFV4

 

I got mine today, and I agree 100% with all of it.  My Juice Flow Control has knurling, but I think it will be more trouble than it is worth!  I mainly bought it for the single coil deck.  It is great to build on, just like a bigger subtank mini.  I will hold my opinion on how it vapes until I get this coil broke in.

Edited September 29, 2015 by jasonculp

[jasonculp]

This is why I love Temp Control.  I have been on this same coil for nearly 2 weeks and the top fill means I don't have to to remove my tanks except to change coils.  I was just vaping and surfing and my mod died.  I looked up and the tank was totally dry.  I turned it upside down and not a single drop ran out.  The fact that I can vape a tank until it is completely empty makes the TC worth it alone, not to mention all of the other benefits...

Please ignore how dirty my tank looks...

[cany]

Anyone notice that when your NI build ages you get more n more flavor out of it??

[FXRich]

I don't see titanium coils discussed much here, got a question about it, and this seems to be the place for it. I recently preordered a Kanger subox platinum, and I want to use titanium coils in a subtank mini RBA. The reason for wanting to use titanium is it holds its shape better and is easier to work with, it also has more resistance than Ni200, which means less wraps on the coil, so it should fit better in the RBA. Just wanted to know other peoples opinion of titanium coils.

I don't even know if the Kanger platinum has a Ti mode, but from what I researched I can use the Ni mode and set it about 100 degrees lower and get the temp I want.

[cany]

14 minutes ago, FXRich said:

I don't see titanium coils discussed much here, got a question about it, and this seems to be the place for it. I recently preordered a Kanger subox platinum, and I want to use titanium coils in a subtank mini RBA. The reason for wanting to use titanium is it holds its shape better and is easier to work with, it also has more resistance than Ni200, which means less wraps on the coil, so it should fit better in the RBA. Just wanted to know other peoples opinion of titanium coils.

I don't even know if the Kanger platinum has a Ti mode, but from what I researched I can use the Ni mode and set it about 100 degrees lower and get the temp I want.

Do you mean using TI in a non TI mod  with the NI mode?

[FXRich]

If you go to steam it gives the conversion factor so you can use Ti in Ni mode its about  100 degrees difference. I plan to use a IR temp sensor to check it anyway, just to be on the safe side.

[cany]

Interesting Would be cool it it works

[FXRich]

I have done a little research into since ordering a TC mod. I think I will order some 26g titanium, and some 30g Ni200. 5 wraps on 3mm should give me 0.22 ohms using the 26g titanium, but I'll need about 8 wraps with the Ni200 to get 0.15 ohms. From what I found out the Kanger platinum will only go down to 0.1 ohm.

[cany]

28g NI 5 wraps on 3mm Im getting 0.10 on the mod and 0.05on the meter

[FXRich]

I thought about 28g Ni200, but I would like to get 0.15 ohm or above to save on power consumption 0.15 ohms at 60 watts is 3 volts and 20A.

[cany]

60 Yowww Im at 24W-26

[FXRich]

Like I said I have a lot to learn about TC. Right now I'm running a 1.0 ohm kanthal coil in a Nano at 10 watts, and its vaping good. I don't like to run over 15 watts, and the higher the resistance the less watts you need. That's the reasoning for the 0.15 or above.

[cany]

i have a lot too learn about it also I kinda found what worked for me  then I  stopped looking into it any further

[FXRich]

That's normally how I do it, but this time I wanted some input on titanium coils, pros and cons. looking at steam charts you can run Ti coils on a NI curve using a 350 degree setting and get 450 degrees with a lot less power consumption. I guess I'll find out.

[jasonculp]

I am running Ti, but on a Ti setting.  I ran it on my D2, but it required me to max it out on the Temp (in Ti mode).  I also ran it on my VTC mini in Ti mode, and it would not get hot enough to supply a good vape.  I switched back to Ni200.  Then I got the NEBOX, and it was a bear to get setup correctly, but I am running it in Ti mode 375F and 40 watts.  It is a great vape.  It does tend to run a bit hot, but great for me so far.  I have read a lot of people are having a lot of trouble with the NEBOX, but I am thinking about buying a few more...lol

[FXRich]

Trouble is I don't know if the Kanger platinum has a Ti mode, none of the advertisements say if it does or not, but I assume it uses the same chip as the NEBOX so I guess it does. I didn't see in the specs for the NEBOX that it has Ti mode, they just don't put all the need to know things in the specs. What ohm Ti coil are you using?

[jasonculp]

2 hours ago, FXRich said:

I thought about 28g Ni200, but I would like to get 0.15 ohm or above to save on power consumption 0.15 ohms at 60 watts is 3 volts and 20A.

Remember the watts, amps, and volts you are calculating are at the atomizer.  The drain on you battery is only based on watts.  The higher the watts the more draw on your battery.  It does not matter how many ohms you are running on the atomizer.  For a good explanation check out Steam Engine Battery Drain and go down to the How it Works link and read a better explanation than I can come up with.  I also tried to explain it in this post: http://www.vaportalk.com/forum/topic/27525-battery-draw-on-a-variable-wattage-mod/

2 minutes ago, FXRich said:

Trouble is I don't know if the Kanger platinum has a Ti mode, none of the advertisements say if it does or not, but I assume it uses the same chip as the NEBOX so I guess it does. I didn't see in the specs for the NEBOX that it has Ti mode, they just don't put all the need to know things in the specs. What ohm Ti coil are you using?

I am using 26ga and I don't count my wraps any more 5 or 6 I am guessing.  It is reading .56ohms on my NEBOX.  I didn't try it on a meter, due to the fact the RBA will not screw on to a meter.  I could have used the SubTank Mini's but I am lazy.  (bad practice)

[FXRich]

I ordered a extra subtank base for that reason, but while I was waiting to get it I discovered the subtank mini RBA fits in a T3 base, or a EVOD base, that's how I check mine. I know the resistance don't affect the power but the lower the resistance the more watts is needed, at least that's been my experience. 

[Bebop]

glad to see TC is still alive!

 

I haven't tried Ti yet.  Last time I looked in to it I thought it was a little sketchy with regard to breaking down with heat.  I don't know.  Rixter and I had a conversation about it months ago and I kind of abandoned it but i know a lot of guys are using it.  

 

Also, I tried some of the Ni wire from lightning vapes that is tempered.  It works really well.  Definitely easier to work with but might be a little gimmicky.  I never really had that much trouble with Ni but it's definitely different.

 

 

[jasonculp]

2 minutes ago, Bebop said:

glad to see TC is still alive!

 

I haven't tried Ti yet.  Last time I looked in to it I thought it was a little sketchy with regard to breaking down with heat.  I don't know.  Rixter and I had a conversation about it months ago and I kind of abandoned it but i know a lot of guys are using it.  

 

Also, I tried some of the Ni wire from lightning vapes that is tempered.  It works really well.  Definitely easier to work with but might be a little gimmicky.  I never really had that much trouble with Ni but it's definitely different.

 

 

I really don't have a clue.  I have been reading some posts that say Ti is more safe than Ni and others that say Ni is more safe than Ti.  I personally am really liking the flavor I get from the Ti a bit better.  I hope they get some grades of SS with the proper curves to work. (I think you can with a DNA200 and their software)

I mainly went to Ti thinking I might be able to rewick without rebuilding, but it is really just as easy to rebuild.  I need to buy a couple more RBAs.