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Posted

Sweet. Ya I'm not a fan of that huge drip tip. Is that the Tobeco clone? I read some folks had issues with the screws cutting the leads with Kanthal let alone ni200. Did you change out the screws or have that issue?

Yes.  It is a Tobeco clone.  I use an RDA so infrequently, I didn't want to spend too much.  I don't remember it cutting the wire, but it may have.  I didn't do anything to the screws.  It seems like most clones, and even some originals, have super sharp screws in them.  I normally file them down, but I have not on this one.

Woohoo!!! Avid Vaper just got some velocity RDA's in stock. I've been checking the website daily for 3 weeks and today they must have gotten some in. I was able to place my order successfully. Awesome! Now the long wait. It will arrive at my home address in the US. Then get sent to a friend on home leave who will bring it to Iraq for me. I tell you guys what this is a whole new kind of snail mail (but mail none the less). I should get it sometime mid September.

It is a shame it takes so long, and you have to go through that process just to get it.  It will be worth the wait though.  You will enjoy it!

Posted

Woohoo!!! Avid Vaper just got some velocity RDA's in stock. I've been checking the website daily for 3 weeks and today they must have gotten some in. I was able to place my order successfully. Awesome! Now the long wait. It will arrive at my home address in the US. Then get sent to a friend on home leave who will bring it to Iraq for me. I tell you guys what this is a whole new kind of snail mail (but mail none the less). I should get it sometime mid September.

And 9 hours later they are completely sold out. Glad I got my order in. Phew

Posted

I tried to use the Triton RBA again tonight to build a vertical coil for my SauceCode.  Again, it didn't go so well.  I did a good job on the coil, but I had trouble with the wicking.  It is really hard to judge how much cotton to put on these vertical coils.  It was a bit too loose and just flooded within a few minutes.  I guess it didn't matter too much, I needed to clean my tank out anyway.

I went back with my second Herkales Ni200 coil.  Wow!  I had no idea the flavor had dropped off so much in 2 weeks.  It wasn't bad, but, the coil has much more flavor!

Posted

I finally built a decent Ni200 coil for the Triton RBA.  I elected to do a standard horizontal coil, and it worked great.  It is a bit a bit odd to wick a coil before mounting it, but it works.  I wrapped the coil with one leg up, and one leg down, wick it about a mm on each side wider than the rba, tucked them in, and tighten it up.  After priming it, and breaking it in for a bit, it is performing great.

It feels good to get a coil built without loosing my cool!

Posted (edited)

Way too go Jason  Any pics of that bad boy :thumbsup::thumbsup:

It is funny.  I went months and months using nothing by the RBA in my SubTank Mini, and my Lemo 2.  I now have gone months without being able to build a decent coil without loosing my cool....  So it was a heck of an accomplishment.

I wish I had taken pictures, but I didn't think I would even have the patients to get it built.

Whats more is I really like the way this thing builds and wicks!  Pretty easy.

Edited by jasonculp
It is an RBA....not an RDA
Posted

Picked up a new Kanger Subtank mini today with a pack of there nickel coils, the Occ ones seem decent.

To my surprise with the new ones they are coming with the vertical occ coils, but the big surprise was the RBA, that now has the holes drilled direct from Kanger now, I figured I would share since I seen the video in this thread showing how the older ones can be modded by drilling with a dremal. Guess Kangertech listened.  Took a photo to show you guys 

image.jpg

Posted

Yeah, they work great too. So much easier to wick.  I replaced both my RBAs with the new ones. It's getting so easy to use these now. 

Posted

I don't use the stock coils in the subtank mini since the first one, and only used that while I was building the first RBA.

Posted

I just learned first hand something I have only read about with temp control.  Well it is more about Ni200 rather than temp control.

I was getting ready for bed, unplugging chargers, taking medicine, etc.  I reached down and took a big drag off of my mod (last one of the night) when I saw a flash or something in the mirror.  I held up the mod in front of my face and fired it.  Looking through the air holes in the tank I could see the air holes in the Triton RBA base I had in my tank.  It was glowing!  Well it wasn't the base itself, but the leg of the coil going down to the bottom connection. My coil is suffering from the dreaded "Hot Leg".  The leg is so long, and it has no juice or wick cooling it.  Apparently this is a pretty big problem, most evident with the RDA's with the offset posts.

If you TC mod is acting wonky....you might check to see if one leg is much longer than the other, and it is getting hot.

 

TritonRBA.thumb.jpg.48ce39595a020dc22f5a

 

Posted

Wow. Jason.  I've been studying this. So what you're saying is that is a design feature of that coil? The bottom leg is longer (looks nearly twice as long) as the top leg? Seems like it really would create imbalance in the coil. No way to correct that? Just something you have to live with?

 

Posted

Wow. Jason.  I've been studying this. So what you're saying is that is a design feature of that coil? The bottom leg is longer (looks nearly twice as long) as the top leg? Seems like it really would create imbalance in the coil. No way to correct that? Just something you have to live with?

 

I have been reading that people are having a hard time, mainly with Ni200, on factory coils, and offset RDA's.  The long legs seem to cause problems with temp control, and I got lucky enough to see it first hand.  I think with Kanthal you will never notice it.  It is a great RBA and I really like how you build it.

Ok, now that I think about it, this is confusing me even more.  Help me out here guys...

I guess the liquid would transfer the heat from the coil much more efficiently than the air flowing across the leg.  So the resistance would go up faster in the leg.  Am I looking at this correctly?

I think if the lower leg could be much shorter, it would work better, but it would be much more difficult to build.

Posted

Would it be possible to double the lower leg and twist it together, it would reduce the resistance in the lower leg but might mess with the TC.

Posted

Would it be possible to double the lower leg and twist it together, it would reduce the resistance in the lower leg but might mess with the TC.

That is an interesting idea.  I still have not done a complete autopsy on the coil yet.  I just switched back to a Herakles Ni200 coil.  I still have the new replacement Saucecode RBA.

I am thinking about getting some 26ga Ti01 and see if it works better.

Posted

I'm waiting for Kanger to come out with a TC, It seems to me Kanger spends more time on R&D before marketing a product, and they usually get it right. Took them awhile to come out with a subtank, but when they did it is a good one.

Posted

I look forward to talking about my experience with temp control using the Velocity rda, the Squape Rs. I have put a lot of effort into reading/watching most reviews and am looking forward to a great experience. 

Have a great day everyone.

DG

Posted

I just made a Twisted 28G, 3mm, 9/10 wrap, .111 ohm coil to put in the TVF4 and have to say, I am impressed.  It really has not broken in yet, but the flavor is great at 475F and 40J.

I think the approximately 80VG/20PG is going to wick fine with the huge channels.  I am using 8mg/ml nicotine, but this may be a bit much for me personally.

Twisted28-TFV4.thumb.jpg.02a404e01d58aad

Posted

Jason inspired me to try a build 3mm NI came @.09

 

I wish I could get the legs of the coil looking as good as yours!  I just don't have the patients.

Looks good!

Posted

I wish I could get the legs of the coil looking as good as yours!  I just don't have the patients.

Looks good!

Thanks Jason I kinda just bent the legs with a small screw driver after everything was in place

Posted

Can anyone tell me why when i do a 13 wrap spaced 28g nickel build on my cloupor gt it keeps scorching my cotton.

Ohms out at 0.08 ohms...running 60 joules and 480 degrees.[/c03bbc0a1b90ee0a81a589ef1115aad5.jpg

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