cany Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 you think using a naut mini could be messing me up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 I don't know because I've never used one. Personally, I like the Kanger Subtank line or RBAs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Got ya thanks for all the help I think Ill look into a Kanger subtank for it I would like to have a dedicated tank for it that Im happy with Trial/error I guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) Hey Rixter. So it doesnt just shut down when it reaches temp but lowers the output when it reaches temp? Im just curious about how it holds the temp. Is it on/off or does it reduce smoothly? I dont know if you can tell.... Edited May 20, 2015 by Bebop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 No, it doesn't shut off or stutter the power. It actually adjusts the power smoothly to keep things at your preset temperature limit. Bebop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 By power do you mean the watts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 My watts jump around like crazy goes down too 2 watts then bounces all around low watts nothing smooth about it I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 My watts jump around like crazy goes down too 2 watts then bounces all around low watts nothing smooth about it I think While it may not appear visually smooth with the power level (watts) jumping up and down on the screen, the end result is that it's keeping your temperature at a constant level that you preset, which provides a very consistent vape. Like I stated earlier, with my temp limit set to 500F and my power set at 20 watts, it doesn't take very long for the coil to reach 500F. Then it cuts itself back from 20 watts to between ~8 to ~12 watts (and all points in between) to maintain that 500F coil temp. jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Also remember that if you're just looking at the screen and not pulling air through your tank by actually vaping in it, your mod is going to provide less power because there is no air being drawn across your coils to cool it down, so it won't need as much power to achieve your temp limit. Look at the screen while you're actually vaping and you'll see higher power levels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Also remember that if you're just looking at the screen and not pulling air through your tank by actually vaping in it, your mod is going to provide less power because there is no air being drawn across your coils to cool it down, so it won't need as much power to achieve your temp limit. Look at the screen while you're actually vaping and you'll see higher power levels. I tried it looking in a mirror they still jumped around but not nearly as low as when I was just looking at the screen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 I just took mine up to 25 watts and a 600F limit. It's a good bit warmer but not too hot. I'm going to try it there and see how things go, but so far, I'm liking it even more. 600F is about as warm a vape as I'd want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 I just took mine up to 25 watts and a 600F limit. It's a good bit warmer but not too hot. I'm going to try it there and see how things go, but so far, I'm liking it even more. 600F is about as warm a vape as I'd want. WOW that gets nice and warm fast Rixter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) Sorry for the poor quality spur of the moment cell phone video. BTW - I don't know why the opening still pic is rotated 90 degrees. Edited May 20, 2015 by Rixter jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Nice hit :thumbup: Rixter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Question (go figure) Using temp control the nickle coils have to be low ohms since they are low ohm coils are they considered sub ohm? If so should I be using an actual sub ohm tank (more air flow tank) as opposed to the Nautilus mini Im using now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 No. It is just the nature of Nickel wire. They use nickel because you can calculate the temprature due to the resistance change in the coil. The one I just got is showing .12 at rest and at 370 degrees it is showing .24. You can run the subtanks. I am finding there is a large option for nickel coils out there for them as well. My question on the subject: Have y'all noticed a difference in flavor? I am going from a Lemo 2 .9ohm coil using tiger wire at 30watts, to a Subtank mini with a .1 ohm coil at 370 degrees and 27 watts. It is much hotter and the taste is a bit off. Is it the Nickel? or is it the attomizer? I have been running the 1.2 ohm coil at 30 watts and it tastes just like the lemo, possibly better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 I got my Smok M80 today and I got a little bit of ni200 I'm going to try and build my darkhorse tonight.so far this temp control is impressive,I got the Smok GCT to go with it,it uses ni200 coil heads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Jason my coil reads 0.26 I have watts @24 and temp @ 540 It seems to bring out the flavors more for me. I think Im gonna pickup a sub ohm tank and see how that does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Jason my coil reads 0.26 I have watts @24 and temp @ 540 It seems to bring out the flavors more for me. I think Im gonna pickup a sub ohm tank and see how that does My mod has a different chip in it and so far I am really liking it. I hope the coil breaks in and the flavor gets where it needs to be. I have started my temp at 340 and have worked up to 400 now. I may keep going up. I am running my Sigelei mini at 30 watts with a 1.2 coil in the other SubTank Mini and it is still a tiny bit hotter than the Zero with the Nickel coil. It is a bit annoying. On this chip if you have your watts too high it will show TEMPERATURE PROTECTED and cut out for a split second then go back to working. If I lower my watts it happily adjusts very quickly. I got my Smok M80 today and I got a little bit of ni200 I'm going to try and build my darkhorse tonight.so far this temp control is impressive,I got the Smok GCT to go with it,it uses ni200 coil heads I have heard that is a good tank! I personally enjoy the Sub ohm tank's. They have much better airflow. That being said they use more juice, most need a bit higher VG liquid, but overall a more satisfying vape, in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Subtank mini 0.15 premade nickel coils. I bought the oring kit might change them to the black ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 Lemme know how those Ni200 OCCs work out for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Subtank mini 0.15 premade nickel coils. I bought the oring kit might change them to the black ones Cool! I really like mine. I think the coil broke in and went it to tasting good. I want to buy a bell cap like Rixter, and an oring kit. I am really starting to enjoy this Temp Limiting stuff. My mod may be a bit off, it is showing .11 - .12 ohms. I am finally getting it set the way I like it. I may try come up with a nickel build for the Lemo2 this weekend. Lemme know how those Ni200 OCCs work out for you. I have been using one last night and all day today, and I really like them. I have ran nearly 10ml of Frutti-Tutti thorough it. I realize our mods use different settings, but I am running it at 420F and 28 Watts and it is great! It did seem like it took a while to break in, and I did drip a few drops into the middle and each side to prime it. Rixter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Lemme know how those Ni200 OCCs work out for you. So far Im liking this 24w 520-temp wide open airflow Tip gets a bit hot at the end of the hit (for me) but its doable. Im vaping a juice I had today all day in the Naut mini and with the kanger setup Im tasting another flavor at the end which I never tasted with the mini :thumbup: Rixter and jasonculp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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