Altema Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I'm new to RBAs. Im using a Kangertech subtank, the regular sized one not the mini. How do I know when its time to change the cotton and coils. About how often do they last? How often do I change the coils? What happens to the coils over time that leads them to be changed? What changes happen to the cotton that leads it to be changed? Thanks for your help!! Happy Vaping!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeF Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) As an RBA and RTA user I can say that with a diy coil you only have to really change the cotton regularly. Just slide the cotton out of the coil, dry burn the coil and rewick. I change mine whenever I am not getting the full flavor I used to when everything was new. You will notice that the juice seems to have lost flavor. Once you pull the rebuildable section apart you will see a gunked coil and a dirty looking wick. I would suggest replacing the coil about every third wick change, but that depends on the juice. If it is a dark or sweet juice you may have to do it more often. Edit: Damn wish I had read the post carefully, area you referring to the pre-made coils? Or the RTA section? either way if you are losing flavor or are getting a burned juice flavor, its time. Not familiar with the sub-tank premade coils yet, I am about to order one. Others with more experience than me will chime in as well. And welcome to VaporTalk Edited April 4, 2015 by GeorgeF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 It's all good, George. OP didn't mention if it was the RTA or pre-made coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeF Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Thanks Tam, Been a long week/winter. sometimes I just start typing with what I processed as read and then go back after posting and reread the OP. IS IT SPRING YET, I need a vacation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthling789 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Vacation? Did someone say vacation? I'll take TWO! I'll add one thing to George's answer... on the RTA or cartridge coils, one additional indication it's time to change them is they will suddenly become tighter to draw. This is because the coil gunks-up and slows the air-flow due to crud on the coil and dark build-up on the cotton. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhillcalifornia13 Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 U know that u have to replace the cotton after the vapor starts to taste burnt even when soaked with juice. Usually with frequent use for me I have to replace cotton about every few days to each week or when I change flavors. Coils are a different story they take much longer to need replacing up to a month or two. If ur coils look nasty and black, remove the cotton then bring ur vape/rba to the sink and turn on cold water. Heat the coil for ten seconds until it turns bright orange then put the coil under the water while still firing the mod. Be careful to only get the rba and coil wet so you don't short the battery. After running it under the water all the gunk will vanish. Wait for the coil and rba to dry then add new cotton and ur good to go. Happy vapin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Personally, I would not recommend to anyone to place a firing coil into water. There are too many risks and it's unnecessary. To clean your coils, just take out the wick material and do a dry burn. Whatever residue was on your coil will burn and leave your coil clean. If you feel the need to clean the ash off, you can either blow on it or use a long, dry model paint brush to gently brush it away. This last part really isn't necessary but that's just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I get my coil red hot let off the fire button and quench it to get all the crap off.it makes the coil like new again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I've played around with this idea a little. I have an opinion about it I'd like to share mostly because I want to find out if I'm missing anything or if there is more I could learn about it. In general I believe the following to be true: Application of a small amount of water works extremely well just after releasing the fire button. It blows deposits right off the coil clean as a whistle. Care must be taken not to get water in to the device so this takes some skill that may not be suitable for the average user. Thorough cleaning and drying is a must. Risks: On an unregulated device potential disaster in two ways - direct short with water while firing or short from residual water unseen. I wouldn't reccomend this at all unless you know what you are doing. Regulated device - should shut down with direct short. This includes ego style batteries. Risk if water gets in to casing is battery is ruined permanently but shouldn't be a catastrophic failure i.e. explosion Other risk - shorting out batteries can degrade them and make them unpredictable? Particularly in non regulated device? As Tam said a good dry burn and cleaning is just good enough. Might not be worth the risks. I'm open to other opinions.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I only do the water cleaning on my coils on a mech mod,never a regulated VV/VW device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 For me, the risk of something going wrong -- even with the best of plans and intentions -- isn't worth it. If I want a coil that's cleaner than just a dry burn, I just build a new coil. Wire is cheap. Hospital bills are not. Bebop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 For me, the risk of something going wrong -- even with the best of plans and intentions -- isn't worth it. If I want a coil that's cleaner than just a dry burn, I just build a new coil. Wire is cheap. Hospital bills are not. Safety first even with stock coils :yes . Thats what Tam been teaching me Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Safety first even with stock coils :yes . Thats what Tam been teaching me You've been listening. Good boy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 I'm with Tam on this one. If a dry burn doesn't do the trick, just pull the coils and make new ones. Wire and cotton is to cheap to worry with... Compenstine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazl37 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Use a old bottle with a dripper on it and drip water on it slowly and fire, that way you control where the water is going and how much. Just a suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthling789 Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 A dry burn will turn any residue to ash... simply blow it away with your breath or a quick shot from a can of compressed air, if you feel it necessary... Personally, after a half-dozen bursts from the battery, to get the coil nice and orange, there is rarely anything left that doesn't disappear on its own... I've never had any residue come off on the cotton when I re-wick, so that tells me a good dry-burn does not require a "water rinse" or anything more to remove residue. Compenstine, Tam and gag8tor 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfolse107 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I just throw mine vv/vw mod with tank in the dishwasher every now and then with a little Cascade and Jet Dry. NOT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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