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Posted

Looking at getting one of these can't decide. Don't know enough about the earlier versions of the Kayfun, I have 2 V4 clones and not liking the spring conductivity issue. Other than that they are great!

Posted

Yeah I was gonna go with that one Sweet-Vapes has the EHPro clone for a good price. Still can't justify the Authentic price in the budget, unless they are under $50.

Posted

Here's some info I put together when I was deciding which one to buy:

Russian 91% - Bottom fill through recessed port, with o-ring for better seal. Air-flow adjustment is on the side of the base (no need to remove from MOD to adjust. (V2 has adjustable 510 pin).

KayFun Light Plus V1 - Bottom fill through slightly recessed port, with o-ring for better seal. Air-flow adjustment is on the bottom of the base.

KayFun Light Plus V2 - Bottom fill through deeper recessed port (deeper than V1), with o-ring for better seal. Air-flow adjustment is on the bottom of the base. Also to note top-cap has bevel for drip-tip and different drip-tip style (not smooth tube like V1 or Russian).

KayFun 3.1 - Side fill through recessed port, with o-ring seal. Air-flow adjustment also on the side (similar to the Russian). The change in the base makes the 3.1 taller than the Russian, but more Russian-like at least with air-flow adjustment location. The 3.1 also retains the Russian/KFL+V1 top-cap and drip-tip style. The center-pin of the 3.1 is also adjustable like the Russian.

Posted

Yeah I was gonna go with that one Sweet-Vapes has the EHPro clone for a good price. Still can't justify the Authentic price in the budget, unless they are under $50.

EhPro makes a good clone, that's for sure! I hope that info above will highlight the differences for you and help your decision process. I would avoid the 3.1 Version, as they are a pain to fill, and the spring-loaded ball-bearing that seals the fill-port is prone to failure/leakage.

Posted

Haha, glad I could help confuse you even more :)

Seriously, between the KFL+ V1 and Russian V2, the only difference is the air-flow control screw location, and the Russian has adjustable 510 pin

Posted

Not confused anymore just trying to make a well informed purchase. I hate buying a device that is not satisfying. Weather it is a camera, computer, TV, piece of vape gear.

Not into spending just to spend, even thou my collection says otherwise.LOL

Posted

The Kayfun Lite Plus and Russian 91% are so much alike, it is hard to make a choice... For me, I selected the Russian based on air-flow screw location. Although, honestly, once you set the air-flow to where you want it, you'll rarely adjust it, unless you change to a thicker/thinner juice.

YiLoong makes really good Russian clones. I have two of theirs, and other than being a few mm taller than the authentic (which I have two of), their performance is spot-on. The best part is that you can pick up clones for < $25. Kayfun clones can be found < $20, but I would avoid the no-name cloners and some people say the Tobeco clones are hit-and-miss in their quality/performance... I wouldn't know, as I don't own one. EhPro seems to be one of the better Kayfun clones... Infinite and HCigar also make good ones, but it's hard to find an HCigar V1 or V2 these days.

The authentic Russian is made in China at the Kebo manufacturing facility. They also make clones in their off-contract time, so yes, there are 1:1 clones out there, made on the same line as the authentic, but without the UCT logo between the air-screw and air-hole. Any clone listed with a body of 42mm and overall height of 72mm would be a Kebo manufactured clone. YiLoong clones are 47mm body and 78-84mm overall height... because they use also manufacture Kayfun and use the same chimney and body-tube sections for both... the YiLoong clones hold about 0.5ml more juice than the authentic, too. One thing to look for when buying a good Russian 91% clone is the logo/lettering on the base... The YiLoong clones will have "The Russian 91%" spelled out in lower-case letters, and the first letters, "T" and "R" will be oulined letters, not solid-block letters. The last letter "N" should be an upside-down "U", not a typical lower-case letter 'n' with a visible straight line on the left-side...

Posted

So fishguy, did you have to scrub the crap out of your to get the juices to taste right?

I washed mine and built a 1.3 ohm coil just after it arrived. I run it at about 12w and have even tried going down a bit to 10w and even 9w and every juice I have tried, that I know is a great flavor, seems to be off a bit.

 

Not sure if it is machining oil still left behind or that I should have taken every piece, that could be taken apart, apart. Strip the whole thing apart and clean the crap out of it?

Posted

Thanks fishguy and Earthling. I will do that tonight. Should I remove the 510 pin, positive side of the build deck and the insulator to clean those all separate?

Or just leave the complete build deck together and wash it as one unit?

Posted (edited)

When it comes to cleaning, I tend to unscrew / remove everything I can, but in all honesty, when it comes to the deck, there is very little places that oil can get into that hot water, soap, and "running" hot water can't reach.  Vodka or pure-grain alcohol (Ever Clear) will remove anything else left behind (and will remove water from the crevices).

 

Pay close attention to the threaded areas, those tend to be the real "pockets" for oil.  I use an old toothbrush for cleaning threads!

Edited by Earthling789
Posted

Thanks again Earthling. I just washed it with dish soap(only one drop), toothbrush and an ultrasonic cleaner. Just starting to put all back together now. Man is it shiny clean now.

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