Got my first RDA and Mod... Couple questions...

[EverPresentNoob]

So I origionally was using a Spinner II and a nautilus mini, but I wanted more from it than it could give me so today I went out and pulled the trigger in a new RDA and a Mod. Ended up with a Little Boy clone and a Tesla mod. loving it so far but found out REALLY quick that the 12Mg juice I was using in my Nautilus is not a good choice in my RDA. After two hits I thought my head was gona explode!

Now for my questions...

1. when changing flavors do you just pull out the wicking and replace it? or can you run it under water to rinse out the old flavor.

2. How do you know what guage wire to run? I am not sure what guage came with my Little Boy, but they were at .25 to .3 ohms once I installed both in the deck.

3. The shop I bought this thing at said the battery he sold me would be good down to .1 ohms. How can i tell if this is true? I dont want this thing to vent in my face...

4. the vapor is rather hot with this thing. If i build new coils and make them around .75 ohm that should cool it down some as well as make the battery last longer right?

5. If I get bored can I slap my Nautilus tank on top of this mod? I know that kinda defeats the purpose of a mod, but hey why be normal. I just want to be safe.

[Earthling789]

Welcome to VT!

First off... how do you know the ohms of the RDA? Did they check it at the shop, or did they just "guess"? You really should purchase a dedicated Ohm meter for your own use at home if you plan to rebuild.

That Tesla Mod is a cool looking MOD... my son bought me one for Christmas (and I refuse to use it, lol). YES, it will work with your Nautilus... think of it as nothing more than a Spinner set at 3.7-3.9V... as the battery runs down, it will produce less vapor... at that time you know it's time to charge the battery. I've used my mechs with regular tanks many times.

Gauge of wire is personal preference, based on the coil you are trying to build. Use an online calculator like Steam-Engine.org to find out how many wraps, what diameter mandrel, and what gauge wire combos produce what desired resistance... and then use a meter to VERIFY before you fire it!! Safety First!

Yes, if you build a higher Ohm coil (.75... 1.2... etc) it will be a cooler vape, and will not produce as much vapor (because it is getting less power to the coil), but that will be better for your battery.

NOW, what battery do you have? Many shops will tell you anything you want to hear, but it may not be true!

[vaping_jake]

First i have to say that i am a newbie so these are just how I do things, There members here who know thier !@#$ and i would take thier words over mine.My answers only reflect how i do it.

By the way: that mech looks spot on to me, i like it as much as the emma mod. I am sure it will look even sweeter once it ages. Dam this hobby is addictive and harmful to your savings.

1. when changing flavors do you just pull out the wicking and replace it? or can you run it under water to rinse out the old flavor. If you still have your cotton in place i wouldnt soak it in water, and being honest i am not one who likes to mix their electrical parts with waters. But i have seen folks clean thier coils that way. Once your have used of most of your juice i would just drip the new flavor on, first hit or two might have a mixed flavor.

2. How do you know what guage wire to run? I am not sure what guage came with my Little Boy, but they were at .25 to .3 ohms once I installed both in the deck. all depends on the space your atty has and what type of coil you like to build and resistance target.

3. The shop I bought this thing at said the battery he sold me would be good down to .1 ohms. How can i tell if this is true? I dont want this thing to vent in my face... there may have been a misunderstanding here. i have never heard a battery rated to a certain resistance.

4. the vapor is rather hot with this thing. If i build new coils and make them around .75 ohm that should cool it down some as well as make the battery last longer right? Earthling is right as usual

5. If I get bored can I slap my Nautilus tank on top of this mod? I know that kinda defeats the purpose of a mod, but hey why be normal. I just want to be safe. yes, and no it doesnt defeat the purpose of a mech IMHO

[EverPresentNoob]

Actually I used my Fluke meter to test the Ohms. I didnt see the point on buying a little ohm tester for these when I have a couple fluke multimeters here that I spent a few hundred on.

as far as the battery... I basically dont want to have the battery go pop on me. I thought that some batteries couldnt handle uuber sub-ohm coils while others could. the battery is an "Efest 2500mAh imr 18650 3.7v li-mn 35amp discharge current" at leats that is whats on the bright freaking purple lable.... I guess maybe a better question would be what makes a VTC4 VTC5 battery better or worse.

Yea, I normally dont mix electricity and water either, but I pulled the RDA off the top, rinsed in hot water to get all the juice out, blew it out real good with my air compressor. put in new cotton and took a shot at the moon.

[Compenstine]

Efest is known for overrating the batteries they sell, it is also rumored that they are factory seconds that did not make the grade.

[Earthling789]

A Fluke meter is good... the only reason I suggest a dedicated vaping Ohm meter is they make a good, stable platform to build on, and they make measuring resistance a hands-free operation I used my Fluke as well, until I tried a dedicated meter....

The purple Efest IMR 35A is a good battery (if it is a true Efest, not a re-wrapped factory second or knock-off), and will handle super sub-ohms, so yes, the shop is correct that it will handle builds down to 0.12 Ohm... should you dare to go that low... but 1.2 Ohms @ 4.1V would draw 34A and be a super-hot 140W! Just be aware of the battery getting hot if you're building sub-ohm builds...

The Sony VTC4 is rated to 20A continuous, but has a high pulse rate... if memory serves, something like 60A? The VTC5 (those actually made by Sony - very few are, according to Sony) are rated the same discharge as the VTC4, but have a higher capacity (mAh).

Edited February 12, 2015 by Earthling789

[EverPresentNoob]

And that was what I was wondering and confused about. I actually am planning on getting a dedicated meter. I was just messing with mine double checking the ohms and the darn probes kept slipping off. so yea, Im really starting to see the benfit. the build I got in it right now is actually a touch on the hot side for me as is. I dont see me going lower for a while. Now i gotta get the right juice for this thing. My normal 12mg made my head damn near explode and my 0mg just isnt anything... Comp, gonna be sending another order your way soon Im betting!

[Earthling789]

yes, with the added heat and vapor, nicotine will be flooded to your system. The general rule is whatever Nicotine level you vape in a tank... if using an RDA... cut it by half or 75%. I use 12-15mg in my Kanger tanks... 12mg in my RTA's, and when I drip (RDA), I drop to 3mg or 6mg (max).

[Tam]

An easy way to clean your RDA without using water is to remove the wick, blot remaining juice on deck with either a tissue or some paper towel, dry burn just the coil in pulses of 3 - 5 seconds to get the residual juice and gunk off the coil, let cool for several seconds, rewick, rejuice, vape.

When I first started building coils, I also used my Fluke meter. Then, I quickly discovered I didn't have enough hands! I was going to add a joke in here about the guys who turn into an octopus at the mere mention of a good looking female -- and how they wouldn't have any problems holding everything at once -- but that would be in poor taste.

[edgy77]

I have a little boy too. I use it.on my ipv2s. Looking for a mech mod. But, I change flavors when it almost gets dry lol. I dont try burn it. Just hit.it till its almost dry. Drip new flavor on it and go. The first few hits might be weird but thats what I do in my kanger subtank too.

[EverPresentNoob]

Man, just got back from my local shop... Picked up some 24g Kanthal and a bottle of Cuttwood Unicorn Milk in 3mg strength. built a single coil 9 wrps around a 1.8th inch drill bit. Ohm'd out at .8 installed. whole different beast. Vapor is no longer hot, and the flavor... Oh my god.... I could vape this all darn day! Normally not a fan of strawberry, but yesterday the customers were all excited when the box from cuttwood showed up and they seemed to be raving about this juice. So I had to try it.

Now for my next question.... when doing a single coil, I used a longer strip of wicking and wrapped it all the way around on the bottom under the coil to the other non-coil bearing side of my RDA. My thought was that this would allow more juice to be stored and wicked into the coil... I still have a good air channel under the coil, but I have extra wicking going between the posts. Is this a good Idea? will it even do anything? Or is it just a placebo effect and im just wasting cotton. Not that my cotton cost a lot, Im using steril cotton balls from CVS... 3 bucks for a HUGE freaking bag....

Heck.. heres a quick pic of the darn thing....

ok, after hitting up the google and finding a reddit page "CoilPorn" I realize that I am just wasting juice... damn. guess Ill trim some of this cotton out and try to squeeze the goodness back into the well of my RDA.

Edited February 12, 2015 by EverPresentNoob

[vaping_jake]

check out the post about which wic i should use... lots of work went into showing different wics and how they absorb juice.