T-Bone Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 I don't know if it's just my sensitivity/tolerance or whatever but if I use the Protank 2 on my iStick at any setting higher than the absolute lowest (3.0 v) the juice gets almost immediately burned. I have to use the Protank 2 on my Spinner, which I can crank all the way up to 4.8 and take the full 8 second draw with no issue. Then, if I put a Protank mini on the iStick, I can crank up the voltage and it's fine. Obviously, it looks kinda silly to have the Protank 2 on top of the Spinner 2, lol. Any reason for this?
DD Custom Cues Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 I watched a review on it and they said it is not accurate on the power. That it is actually higher than it reads.
bcartervol98 Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 What is silly about a KPT 2 on top of a Spinner 2? I use a Davide but basically the same and that's what is in my front pocket all day every day lol.
T-Bone Posted January 23, 2015 Author Posted January 23, 2015 It just seems like it's a little top heavy...lol but yeah, I guess you're right it doesn't matter.
T-Bone Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 The minis have 1.5 and 1.8 for the Protank 2s.
Earthling789 Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 I've noticed the iStick requires a setting of 50-75% what other devices require to get the same vape experience. I've been running my AeroTanks on 8.5-10W with my MVP... 9-10W on my IPV-mini, and... (drumroll)... 6.5W on my iStick T-Bone 1
Tam Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Yep, my IPV mini runs about the same as my Spinners but I have to turn it way down on my iSticks and it still runs pretty hot.
jasonculp Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 This kinda concerns me about the health of your iStick. It was working fine before with same combination wasn't it? Changing your juice could make a difference but not that much. At the 3 volt selection, in voltage mode it should be putting out 4.16 volts on a full charge. It will be even less when your charge is below 2/3 according to things I have read. I can't test any of this on my own, I don't have an oscilloscope, yet...lol After re-reading this, the pro tank mini is working fine on both? and the pro tank 2 only works correctly on the Spinner? If so could it be a coil issue?
T-Bone Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 It just seems like if I turn it up at all it really burns juice.
DD Custom Cues Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Watch this video and you will understand why. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_W1G7p_fCJw T-Bone 1
T-Bone Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) I've seen a lot of that guy's reviews, he's very good...but once people start talking numbers my eyes gloss over. hehe... Also, I bought it from the folks here at the VT store and I've always meant to mention that it didn't come with a charger or the manual...I wonder if it was a refurb? Edit: Also, in the comments people mention to get a coil at about 1.1 for the "sweet spot". I thought the lower a coil's number was the hotter it vaped? I'm trying to avoid it being so hot. Edited January 24, 2015 by T-Bone Slums
Tam Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 I've seen a lot of that guy's reviews, he's very good...but once people start talking numbers my eyes gloss over. hehe... Also, I bought it from the folks here at the VT store and I've always meant to mention that it didn't come with a charger or the manual...I wonder if it was a refurb? Edit: Also, in the comments people mention to get a coil at about 1.1 for the "sweet spot". I thought the lower a coil's number was the hotter it vaped? I'm trying to avoid it being so hot. You're right. The lower the resistance (lower number in the ohms), the hotter the vape.
T-Bone Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 So this is what's confusing...people are saying "It's too hot, it burns...get a 1.1 ohm coil"... That makes no sense to me.
joejoevapekins Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 The v1 of istick runs in mean not rms that why its weird on yall
T-Bone Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 Kinda sucks that I can only vape on it at the very lowest setting, nothing else.
joejoevapekins Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 The v2 are switching to rms to fix that problem
bcartervol98 Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 So this is what's confusing...people are saying "It's too hot, it burns...get a 1.1 ohm coil"... That makes no sense to me. It shouldn't make sense to anyone because it is the polar opposite of the correct advice. If you want a cooler vape increase the resistance. I am a "find what works and stick with it" guy and only use 1.8ohm KPT single coils in the new Aspire Davide tank on top of Spinner 2s. They have been set at 3.8v since the day I got my first one and that is what works for me. Moral of the story is a small change in resistance can be huge. Last week my coil started tasting funky and the only spares I had in my office at work were some old 2.2ohms I had when I first started vaping. I put one in and could barely taste the liquid, seemed to get no vapor so I swapped it out for another thinking I had a bad coil and the same thing happened. Switched back to 1.8 at home and bang back to normal lol. I brought a box of 1.8s to work so that never happens again. T-Bone 1
T-Bone Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) It shouldn't make sense to anyone because it is the polar opposite of the correct advice. If you want a cooler vape increase the resistance. I am a "find what works and stick with it" guy and only use 1.8ohm KPT single coils in the new Aspire Davide tank on top of Spinner 2s. They have been set at 3.8v since the day I got my first one and that is what works for me. Moral of the story is a small change in resistance can be huge. Last week my coil started tasting funky and the only spares I had in my office at work were some old 2.2ohms I had when I first started vaping. I put one in and could barely taste the liquid, seemed to get no vapor so I swapped it out for another thinking I had a bad coil and the same thing happened. Switched back to 1.8 at home and bang back to normal lol. I brought a box of 1.8s to work so that never happens again. Right on. I like a cooler vape and I've found that the Spinner 2 at 3.8 with 1.8 coils and either tank (mini or Pro 2) is my "sweet spot". We probably have the same taste. Edited January 24, 2015 by T-Bone Slums
bcartervol98 Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Right on. I like a cooler vape and I've found that the Spinner 2 at 3.8 with 1.8 coils and either tank (mini or Pro 2) is my "sweet spot". We probably have the same taste. Not only that but the liquid I use, and I mainly vape one flavor has probably been 6 months or more since I had more than a pull or two of anything else, produces an insane amount of vapor because the only PG in there is from the flavorings. I have gotten to where I can taste PG in liquids now and do not like it very much. Comp has been trying to clone my ADV for about 2 months and has not figured it out yet. I just hate the huge clouds it produces and at times I just hold it in a long time to reduce the vapor lol.
T-Bone Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) But if it's mainly VG you're going to get more cloud and PG is where the flavor is, no? Right now I'm vaping his PBFB, 60:40 in a Protank 2, 1.8 coil at 3.8 volts. Cooking it up perfectly. Edited January 24, 2015 by T-Bone Slums
bcartervol98 Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 But if it's mainly VG you're going to get more cloud and PG is where the flavor is, no? Right now I'm vaping his PBFB, 60:40 in a Protank 2, 1.8 coil at 3.8 volts. Cooking it up perfectly. Yea that is the catch 22. I want 0 throat hit but use at least 18mg liquid. To add Pg would add throat hit and a taste I cannot stand especially at the nic level I use and have used for close to 2 years with 0 thoughts on dropping down. My wife is the exact opposite and has used 24mg 80pv 20vg since day 1. Endless Summer from Fuzion, 1.8ohm, Davide with KPT single coil at 3.8v mmmmmmn
jasonculp Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Right on. I like a cooler vape and I've found that the Spinner 2 at 3.8 with 1.8 coils and either tank (mini or Pro 2) is my "sweet spot". We probably have the same taste. It will be hard to get to an equivalent voltage with the iStick. When you have it on 3 volts it is actually putting out 4.16. Even the new 30 watt is running a bit hotter than what the screen reads. It seems like all of the new small mods have a problem in reducing the voltage. I think the people making these mods are losing a part of the market for not providing better step down control. It doesn't affect me much because I never seem to go under 10 watts or so. (Which is over 4.2Volts)
joejoevapekins Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) voltage devices with Chinese origins often have a menu option that allows the user to switch between RMS and MEAN (or AVG) options. Which should you choose, and why? I'm no electrical engineer, so I can really only give you an overview of the engineering involved. What I can tell you is that RMS should be your choice. Let's start with the an explanation of why the RMS/Mean option is included in the first place. Many variable voltage devices use pulse width modulation (PWM) circuitry to deliver power. That's how we can get a 6 volt output from a 3.7volt battery. The power essentially goes on and off rapidly and looks like a wave on an oscilloscope. The VMAX and early versions of the ZMAX used this pulse width modulation, but used MEAN or AVG to measure and adjust the output. Because this method does not take into account the “off” time in PWM, the actual power output was often much higher than what the device was set to. You can set a VMAX to 4 volts and get output closer to 5 volts. It's a great way to burn a cartomizer if you're not careful. Later versions of the ZMAX have been referred to as having the “8th menu option,” which signifies the ability to switch the device between RMS and Mean. RMS measures the output much more accurately and will provide a much more consistent vape. Quite frankly, there is no reason to switch back to MEAN and it's curious why that would even be included as an option. It's like giving a driver a choice of an accurate speedometer or one that reads 10mph too low. So the short answer is that RMS is the easy choice. The question really is why were we given that choice in the first place?http://vapingguides.com/blog/2013/08/rms-and-mean/ Edited January 24, 2015 by joejoevapekins Mtdobies, Tam and jasonculp 3
joejoevapekins Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Short answer for istick users....run a higher ohm coil Mtdobies 1
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