Earthling789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 I agree, the new champagne looks much better than the original one, and I'm also liking the blue, now that it has silver buttons instead of the Hasbro-blue ones of the original version Yep, it's going to be a hard choice.... although the blue and silver are in stock... I guess it becomes a matter of do I want it now, or do I wait?
Tam Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 I'm in the "let's wait until the champagne comes back in stock" camp.
Earthling789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 I'm thinking silver... While the Champagne is kinda sexy, my OCD won't let me put together mis-matched color combos I already have the Titanium Blue MPV, and a blue iStick, so if I don't go silver, my other choice will be another black one... because you can't go wrong with basic-black! Black goes with anything....
Earthling789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 *** Possible Solution Warning *** I think I just figured these iSticks out!!!! All of them are working great with any Kanger full-size tank. All of them work great with my Russians (V1 and V2). I just metered my Nautilus at 1.82 Ohms, and as soon as I put on the Silver iStick, the readings started jumping... everything from "no atomizer" to 3.5 Ohms... The EXACT same thing happened when I put it on either of the blue ones. So, it is the tank! I tried my V4... metered at 1.38 Ohms, and on any iStick, the reading starts jumping wildly. Now, what is the common point between the two? Both 510 pins on the Nautilus/V4 sit nearly flush with the threading, not extended below the threading. What is different between the Kanger / Russians and the Nautilus / V4? The 510 pins of the Kanger and Russians protrude well below the threads. I checked the 510 connection of the iSticks, and they are AS WIDE AS the entire 510 connector (threads and pin)... sooooo, it looks like the Nautilus and V4 are shorting out by contacting the center pin of the APV to BOTH the center pin and the outer threading of the attys I adjusted the 510 of the V4 to extend it a bit (thankfully it's adjustable), and it now works exactly as it should on ANY of the iSticks! No hope for the Nautilus, as it's pin is spring-loaded, and will just press up and allow it to continue to short-out against the wider center-pin of the iStick... This is just fine, as I'm not a fan of the Nautilus, and if I do wish to use it, I always have the MVP
Tam Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) And even though the adapter is put on, you still get the same short. Great deduction, Earthling! Unfortunately, the HH.357 is doing the very same thing as the Nautilus. *sighs* Wait. The Nautilus. I have my mini on the blue iStick and it's not doing anything wonky -- it works just fine with no fluctuation of wattage. WTH? Edited January 17, 2015 by Tam
jasonculp Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 *** Possible Solution Warning *** I think I just figured these iSticks out!!!! I adjusted the 510 of the V4 to extend it a bit (thankfully it's adjustable), and it now works exactly as it should on ANY of the iSticks! No hope for the Nautilus, as it's pin is spring-loaded, and will just press up and allow it to continue to short-out against the wider center-pin of the iStick... This is just fine, as I'm not a fan of the Nautilus, and if I do wish to use it, I always have the MVP You got my curiosity up so I had to go check it out for my self. You are correct! I never ran the full size Nautilus on the 20 watt. I ran the mini. My mini has a longer 510 center pin and a much stronger spring, and the delta does not move at all. I run the full size on my 30 watt, but it is spring loaded and the pin is smaller diameter! Makes sense to me!
Earthling789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 Yep, the mini's pin is stiffer, and the 30W iStick's center pin is smaller. Tam, that is probably why your Nautilus mini is working.... The center pin on my Nautilus has such a weak spring, it doesn't take much for it to bottom-out and move back even with the threading The 510/eGo connectors I just ordered have long, small center-pins, so they should prevent the shorts and no-atty messages I've been getting from my KPT3-minis as well... or at least I hope!
Tam Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 Yep, the mini's pin is stiffer, and the 30W iStick's center pin is smaller. Tam, that is probably why your Nautilus mini is working.... The center pin on my Nautilus has such a weak spring, it doesn't take much for it to bottom-out and move back even with the threading The 510/eGo connectors I just ordered have long, small center-pins, so they should prevent the shorts and no-atty messages I've been getting from my KPT3-minis as well... or at least I hope! Okay, I just loaded up a KPT3 with a new juice I've been wanting to try. It's reading 1.8 ohm on the iStick and the ohm meter. So far so good. Got it set at the lowest wattage that it'll go (4.7w / 3.0v) and... it's amazing! No fluctuations so far. I got frustrated and put the Jam RDA onto my Magneto mech mod. We're all much happier this way. Let me know how the new connectors work for you. You ordered them from Fasttech, yes?
Earthling789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 Yes, I ordered a 5-pack of them from Fasttech... something like $3? I hope they work, but if not, I'm not out any cash I'll let you know how they work, that is, after they arrive, lol.
Tam Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 I look forward to hearing all about it... sometime in March? Or would that be April?
Jiyce Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 On 1/15/2015 at 11:09 PM, Earthling789 said: I've had an istick since before Christmas, and it's worked beautifully with every tank or RTA I've put on it... with the exception of over-tightening a KPT3-mini on the adapter, causing a short (my fault, I know). Now, my newest istick is starting to do weird things, in that I can attach any tank, and it will show the resistance (usually very accurately), and after I take a hit or two, I get a burnt taste... look down at the read-out, and suddenly the resistance is reading some rediculious Ohm reading... like 4.9 or 3.5. Once it reads the resistance incorrectly, huge voltage is applied to reach the Wattage I have set, which means I'm burning wicks (and my juice). I've had to re-wick my RTA twice in one day, and so far I've toasted a couple of Kanger and an Aspire coil... Fortunately, I've not toasted any juice (yet). If I set it down and wait a minute or two, press the button, and the resistance is correct again... WTH? I have re-seated attys, and even if they are fully seated, this occurs randomly. I've tapped the fire-button and watched the resistance change in the window (wild fluctuations).... wait a moment, tap again, and it will read correctly... I have tweaked/lifted the center pin, and it still occurs randomly, even right after adjusting the pin, installing a tank, and not touching anything.... a couple dozen hits are fine, then boom... excessive Voltage applied because it reads the resistance incorrectly (always too high)... I've tried using VV mode, and that has stopped the over-voltage issue, but it still reads the attty incorrectly at random times... and if it reads the atty at max Ohms, the Wattage will be below the threshold, causing it to not fire at all... so that's not helping much either... although it has stopped the burning of wicks Do I have a defective istick, or what? Does anyone else notice this issue? Mine has blown up I would like company phone number and address please I loved it
Edna Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 15 minutes ago, Jiyce said: Mine has blown up I would like company phone number and address please I loved it Hi and welcome to Vapor Talk! The website is www.eleafus.com and they have their contact information on that maybe they can help you that way. smacksy 1
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