maple626 Posted January 16, 2015 Posted January 16, 2015 Hello, I bought a Kanger Sub Ohm tank, using the .5 ohm coils and it was working great. I was using it with my Aspire CF Sub Ohm mod and my Amerivape Manhattan. No problems whatsoever until this morning until all the sudden I get a burnt taste right after replacing the coil when used on the Manhattan. I primed it right, let it sit, pulsed it. But still, it burned immediately. I tried another coil and got the same thing. Then I put in a third coil and tried it on the Aspire CF Sub Ohm Mod. Same thing happened. Keep in mind both of these were working fine the night before and we not dropped. They weren't even charged overnight. I figured the Kanger was broker so I even bought a new one today and I still am having the same problem even with the new tank. What could be going on here? This is very weird. Has anyone experienced something like this before? Thanks Ben
Bebop Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 Hi Ben That mod has a 4.6v constant output so you will need to match your coil resistance to make the proper power. Are you sure your coils are .5 ohm? I suspect your problem is with the tank/coil maybe a wicking problem?
Mplough Posted January 20, 2015 Posted January 20, 2015 At 4.6 volts that's a little over 42 Watts with a 0.5 coil The Kanger Subtank needs to be run below 30 watts or you will scorch the heads. I run mine at around 27 watts, 28 is pushing it. Bebop 1
Earthling789 Posted January 20, 2015 Posted January 20, 2015 The last time I ran a 0.5 Ohm build at 4.1V (33W), the taste was horrid. Once the battery was down around 3.9V (30.4W), the flavor was MUCH better. It's amazing what difference a couple of Watts of power make On my APV, I've been playing with my RDA again, and find that 22-25W seems to be the sweet-spot for my 0.58 Ohm dual-twisted-coil build. So, based on that, if I had a Sub-tank, I'd probably not run the 0.5 Ohm OCC head more than 25W to maintain the coil, as well as maximize the flavor. Bebop and Mplough 2
Rixter Posted January 20, 2015 Posted January 20, 2015 Hi Ben That mod has a 4.6v constant output so you will need to match your coil resistance to make the proper power. Are you sure your coils are .5 ohm? I suspect your problem is with the tank/coil maybe a wicking problem? Which mod has a 4.6v constant output?
Rixter Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) @maple626: What batteries are you using in your mods? Have you metered them fully charged to see what the voltage is on them? You should be using batteries with a voltage of 4.2 when fully charged. Both the Manhattan and the Aspire CF are unregulated mods, so they put out what the battery voltage is. I know, I know...everyone thinks that the CF is a regulated mod, but Phil Busardo (pbusardo on YouTube) and Scott Bonner (igetcha69 on YouTube) tested the voltage drop on the CF and it definitely is not regulated. In fact, Aspire's CF product page actually states that it has an "output voltage of 4.2v full power output", which apparently means when the battery is at full power. The same information is shown for the CF SubΩ Battery as well as the CF Mod Battery (18650). The CFs will, however, shut off when your battery's voltage drops below 3.2v, so you do have under-voltage protection. Edited January 21, 2015 by Rixter Tam 1
Rixter Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) The last time I ran a 0.5 Ohm build at 4.1V (33W), the taste was horrid. Once the battery was down around 3.9V (30.4W), the flavor was MUCH better. It's amazing what difference a couple of Watts of power make On my APV, I've been playing with my RDA again, and find that 22-25W seems to be the sweet-spot for my 0.58 Ohm dual-twisted-coil build. So, based on that, if I had a Sub-tank, I'd probably not run the 0.5 Ohm OCC head more than 25W to maintain the coil, as well as maximize the flavor. I think dual coils with the RBA deck will probably be the way I go, since instead of the .5Ω OCC single-coil head taking all the heat, you could have, say, two .7Ω coils (equaling a .35Ω total load) splitting the overall power...less chance to burn the wick. With the dual .7Ω coil setup, a 4.2v battery will supply around 25 watts to each coil. That load will only draw 12a. I'll let you know when mine comes in tomorrow. Edited January 21, 2015 by Rixter
Bebop Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Which mod has a 4.6v constant output? Oops. Typo Rixter. Thanks for catching that. Rixter 1
Rixter Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Oops. Typo Rixter. Thanks for catching that. NP. I thought there might be a new supermod out! Tam 1
Rixter Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Aspire apparently really wants folks to believe it is regulated, hence the lack of clarity (read: deception) in their description. The sad thing is that the technology exists to make it so.
Mplough Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Even at 4.2V that's 35 watts and too high for the .5 OCC head. I built a single twisted coil 28 gauge Kanthal that's at 0.8 Ohms and 22 watts is about as high as I'm going on the RBA. At 30 watts the flavor starts to suffer. I guess I could do a shotgun, dual coil but (for me) just too much of a pain in the *** to build.
joejoevapekins Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 I've been noticing aspire has been doing some shady stuff lately
Mplough Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 I've been noticing aspire has been doing some shady stuff lately Do tell......
Rixter Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Even at 4.2V that's 35 watts and too high for the .5 OCC head. I built a single twisted coil 28 gauge Kanthal that's at 0.8 Ohms and 22 watts is about as high as I'm going on the RBA. At 30 watts the flavor starts to suffer. I guess I could do a shotgun, dual coil but (for me) just too much of a pain in the *** to build. I think rebuilding the OCC head at .7Ω (~25 watts on a fresh battery) would probably be perfect for a mech. Mplough 1
joejoevapekins Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 For one selling a product as all stainless steel and its really nickel plated brass. Wording the mod as being regulated when its not. Read an email from another group saying they know their nautilus tank has leak issues from a design flaw but has no intention of fixing the problem
joejoevapekins Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Can't remember the link to the email. To many dang vape forums out there lol
Mplough Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 To many dang vape forums out there lol You adulterer! Are you cheating on us?
joejoevapekins Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 I wouldn't be the link master without whoren around lmao. Tam 1
Rixter Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) I thought you owned a fence company I don't care who you are...that's funny, there. Edited January 21, 2015 by Rixter Mplough 1
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