Kanger SUBTANK vs. Aspire Atlantis,which one would you pick?

[kangermall]

Kanger SUBTANK vs. Aspire Atlantis

which one would you pick?

http://www.kanger-mall.com/kanger-subtank-vs-aspire-atlantis

[T-Bone]

In the comments of that article, some guy says to look up the patents on the Aspire as they do not exist...just wondering why this matters?

[Breal]

Kanger SUBTANK vs. Aspire Atlantis

which one would you pick?

I was wondering this myself. A lot of sellers are reducing the price on the Aspire Nautilus (that's the one I have) and selling more of the Kanger. I've run into some trouble with my Nautilus. Mainly the replaceable atomizer tends to get stuck onto the wrong part of the tank. Once, I actually cracked the glass and had to replace the entire thing. But, it's still worth it to me. The convenience of only having to fill it once a day and not having to compromise on taste, or not having the e-liquid burn quickly, is fantastic.

Edited December 19, 2014 by Breal

[Mplough]

Check out this thread, especially the last few posts.

[angeleyezzz]

I've not tried the Subtank as of yet, but I do luv the Atlantis' I own.

[Mplough]

Well I got my Kanger subtank today and so far it's a big box of NOPE! First of all the 0.5 Ohm coil isn't 0.5, My Sigelei registers it as "Low Resistance". I'll go get my Fluke out of the truck when it stops raining. The 1.2 Ohm coil will NOT wick properly and I have already burnt the **** out of the cotton despite soaking it. Last but not least. I tried to do a burn in on the RDA deck with the prebuilt coils and they popped at 15 watts. All in all a bad experience thus far.

The tank is huge however but useless at this point so to the net to search for coils

Edited December 23, 2014 by Mplough

[Compenstine]

I'm looking at it more for the rebuildable side. I can imagine the coils that came with it are weak coils, and would not expect much out of them compared to a build I would do for the tank. It is also well known that coils that come with the tanks seem to be sub par and have never lasted long. I think they do this so it gets you buying a 5 pack sooner than is needed.

[fishguy1123]

Could just be me, but is there any chance that you (kangermall) linked this topic to the Kangertech site have any affiliation with the Kangertech company from Shenzhen?

[Rixter]

Here's a couple of videos from Phil Busardo to help you decide. My money's on the Subtank because of it's dual-build capabilities.

[Mplough]

Well Comp it doesn't surprise me that the coils on the rebuildable deck were weak. I put my Fluke on the premade coil that's suppose to be 0.5 Ohms and it is 0.5-0.6 so I'm not sure why my box doesn't like it? There has to be a short in it.

Edited December 24, 2014 by Mplough

[Compenstine]

I have had Kanger coils that read spot on in my fluke then I check it with my units and I get a variance of sometimes .5-.8 +/- ohms. This could be one of those cases. I have the Kanger heads to do this more than one I build. My built coils are spot on for my Mechs.

[Mplough]

Yeah well this blows, I will say one thing for aspire, all of their coils have read what they claim they are supposed to be.

[jasonculp]

Well Comp it doesn't surprise me that the coils on the rebuildable deck were weak. I put my Fluke on the premade coil that's suppose to be 0.5 Ohms and it is 0.5-0.6 so I'm not sure why my box doesn't like it? There has to be a short in it.

I am sure you tried it, but I am curious, does it measure the same when screwed into the base? From what I have read the Sig is fairly accurate when it come to measuring ohms (for a mod).

[Mplough]

When I check the coil itself, it's 0.5-0.6, the same when screwed into the base. I get no reading when attached to the mod, just 'Low resistance' which is reading below 0.15.

[jasonculp]

When I check the coil itself, it's 0.5-0.6, the same when screwed into the base. I get no reading when attached to the mod, just 'Low resistance' which is reading below 0.15.

I was curious if you screw it into the base then check the ohms with your fluke at the 510 connector. Something could be shorting inside the base, or possibly the center pin is pushing up against the side or something...

[Mplough]

I examined the 0.5 and the 1.2 and I see no noticable difference between the two. The center pin is spring loaded.

[jasonculp]

I examined the 0.5 and the 1.2 and I see no noticable difference between the two. The center pin is spring loaded.

Does it work ok with the 1.2?

[Mplough]

"work" is such a subjective term..... Yeah it worked, mod showed the proper resistance. Then I fired the crap out of the cotton, dry hits from lack of wicking.

[jasonculp]

Dang, I am stumped! I can't imagine why the mod is showing correct on one, and off on the other.

[Tug]

I'm definitely getting an Atlantis when I get the funds.I watched 3 reviews on both Atlantis and the subtank.I honestly dont see any downside to the Atlantis but of course that is subjective.The subtank I hear has a chrome plated shaft and the coils are as well if I'm not mistaken.I might try the subtank eventually when they make it all Stainless steel because it gives you more options on how you want to vape.Tank or RTA

[Mplough]

Well, I went to my local B&M for some advice on my problem. Again, I've only been vaping for about 3 months, never dripped. Looks like the 0.5 Ohm head did have a short. They pulled it apart and there was an obvious arc mark on the bottom isolator. I did manage to fry the 1.2 Ohm head and that was totally my fault.

The sales person showed me how to wrap a coil for the RDA portion of the Kanger and got me going. As I assumed it's pretty easy and straight forward but I'm a hands on guy and like to see some things done before I do them. The flavor is really good, the tank is huge. After I get a set of replacement heads I'll try it and compare it to the Atlantis.

[jasonculp]

I have not seen it done, but I bet you could rebuild the .5 ohm head. Since you already have an ohm meter, all you would need is some kanthal and wicking material, such as Japanese cotton.

I would also recommend a dedicated coil ohm meter, they are so much easier to use, you just screw in the atty. It is a lot of fun and dripping can be a blast. I did it for a while, but don't much any more. My last build has worked so good, I just dry burn and rewick.

I am now entering the phase of possibly building my own mod. I have been gathering parts, but I have a long way to go. I also need to upgrade my tools...

[Mplough]

Already got the wire and will attempt a rebuild whilst watching National Lampoons Christmas Vacation this evening I was informed that one of the other guys at the shop has mastered rebuilding Atlantis coils and has them down to a consistent 0.3 Ohm. I will be paying him a visit next week.

[jasonculp]

Already got the wire and will attempt a rebuild whilst watching National Lampoons Christmas Vacation this evening I was informed that one of the other guys at the shop has mastered rebuilding Atlantis coils and has them down to a consistent 0.3 Ohm. I will be paying him a visit next week.

I have not been very successful myself. I have been pretty good at doing my RDA's an RTA's, but not at Kanger and Aspire. I don't have any trouble making the coils and getting them in the little housings, but I can't get the wicking down. I need to get some Japanese Cotton. I just have not had a real reason to order anything lately.

[Mplough]

I have not seen it done, but I bet you could rebuild the .5 ohm head.

Well well....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w2p09Iu11U

I used 26 gauge Kanthal on a 3mm bit, 4 turns and have an 0.8 Ohm coil. I ran some organic cotton trough and left about 2mm hanging out of the sides. There is a gap between the bottom of the hole in the head and the deck base, so as the head is designed there will be about 1mm of juice in the bottom of the tank that you cannot wick up. The 2mm of cotton I left outside the holes soaks up what's below the head inlet.

I vaped a tankful today and took it to empty. Works like a charm