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Button getting hot


christov11

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SOOOOOO

Im tired of my button getting hot. I thought I saw some posts about it. but i tried cleaning it with a vinegar bath for a few hours and it worked for a day and now its getting hot again... ive noticed some crud on the silver pin that connects to the battery. im trying to scrape it off and then ill give it another bath. its weird since i gave it a bath it almost all came off and after just a couple days the crud is back? i dont get where its coming from since i barely touch the battery on the negative side or positive for that matter and the inside of the mod I dont touch at all...

Anyone have any tricks for a hot button?

I though I saw someone put a peice of kanthal between the button and the pin and said that should work but i have no idea where i had seen that...

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I wish I could help more, but you have been doing exactly as long as I have, and you probably have more experience!

Hot button means resistance, so something isn't making great contact. I am sure you know that.

I did have one that the surface of the brass contact pin was not flat, so it was only contacting in a very small spot. It caused quite a bit of heat.

I though I saw someone put a peice of kanthal between the button and the pin and said that should work but i have no idea where i had seen that...

I also read this. I am not sure about it, but it seems like "resistance wire" would not be the best thing to eliminate resistance. It seems like something would work better than kanthal. Someone might have a little better insight than I do.

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I wish I could help more, but you have been doing exactly as long as I have, and you probably have more experience!

Hot button means resistance, so something isn't making great contact. I am sure you know that.

I did have one that the surface of the brass contact pin was not flat, so it was only contacting in a very small spot. It caused quite a bit of heat.

I also read this. I am not sure about it, but it seems like "resistance wire" would not be the best thing to eliminate resistance. It seems like something would work better than kanthal. Someone might have a little better insight than I do.

im sure theres some trick somewhere that can eliminate this... im going to take a picture of my pin... i scraped some of the crud off and it seems to be making better contact since i dont have to hit it crooked lol i can hit it normally and it fires...

I think the logic behind the peice of kanthal was that the current would go there since it has less resistance then brass (or does it? i have no idea lol)

Honestly I have no idea and im very tired lol i got a bad case of the mondays. just looking for some tips on how to eliminate this... not exactly comfortable since heat to me doesnt feel safe. ive taken the battery out when i really felt wrong and the battery wasnt hot at all so i know thats not the issue. its really the mod giving me a hard time... maybe changeing the spring for magnets would help? i really have no clue

Edited by christov11
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I think the logic behind the peice of kanthal was that the current would go there since it has less resistance then brass (or does it? i have no idea lol)

In a perfect world, the brass would have much less resistance than the kanthal. If you have contact problems with the brass, I guess the kanthal would be a easier path for the electricity, but it would be less than ideal. If I understand it correctly, kanthal's resistance is what causes it to heat up and produce the vapor....I think...

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In the picture the ring was crud that I took off I have no idea what it was since I haven't had any juice leak or anything like that and the little dot in the middle seems to be part of the pin just not perfectly flat. I'm thinking a sanding will do. I'm just worried that it's silver plated and not silver or something...

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I think you're right lol again I'm so tired... Soooo given that there's a sprin in the switch... Would the spring be heating up causing my button to get hot?

Yes! I had this with my GP Paps clone. It took a lot of filing and sanding to get the button to contact the base of the mod and the battery at the same time. If they didn't the spring would carry the current and it was tiny. It would heat up really fast.

In the picture the ring was crud that I took off I have no idea what it was since I haven't had any juice leak or anything like that and the little dot in the middle seems to be part of the pin just not perfectly flat. I'm thinking a sanding will do. I'm just worried that it's silver plated and not silver or something...

Mine also have that ring. I am not sure what causes it.

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how was your pin, like what was it made of. i remember seeing your post about filing it down. only thing that worries me is what my pin is made out of...

Plus i dont have anything to file it down with haha i guess im gonna be scraping until i can file it down! I just went out for my vape break lol no heat...when the batteries are low i get more heat... im just confused about this whole thing... but then again... its monday haha

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how was your pin, like what was it made of. i remember seeing your post about filing it down. only thing that worries me is what my pin is made out of...

Plus i dont have anything to file it down with haha i guess im gonna be scraping until i can file it down! I just went out for my vape break lol no heat...when the batteries are low i get more heat... im just confused about this whole thing... but then again... its monday haha

Mine was actually a brass button with threads. It has a brass nut on top (to make contact with the battery) that allows for adjustment. It is a poor design. I had to use a file and small brass washers to make it work. I spent hours getting it all to fit correctly.

I then purchased the 4nine clone (with a magnetic button), and it worked right out of the box. So I put the GP Paps (cheap clone) to the side.

Now all I have to adjust is the bottom pin of my 454 Big Block clone to shorten the throw, and it makes good contact. If i get any heat, it is from chain vaping, when this occurs, my head is spinning and I have to put it down.

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Now all I have to adjust is the bottom pin of my 454 Big Block clone to shorten the throw, and it makes good contact. If i get any heat, it is from chain vaping, when this occurs, my head is spinning and I have to put it down.

I was looking into the 4nine i love how sleak it looks!

you might have just given me the extra push i needed to pull the trigger on it!

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I can't tell you exactly what it is. But from what I've read across a few communities, it's usually the contact that's the culprit. Any contact that is not 100% flat will create arcing. My guess is that your contact is not completely flat and it's causing some arcing. Judging by the photos, it's pretty far from it. Or it could be the negative on the battery that isn't flat.

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I was looking into the 4nine i love how sleak it looks!

you might have just given me the extra push i needed to pull the trigger on it!

I love it! It is so simple. The only moving part is the button.

That being said, the hybrid connection and the fact it has no adjustments makes it prone to auto-fire. It also has no locks.

I would definitely call it an advanced mod...

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yeah just gotta be careful when youre not holding it... i have a sock it goes into that would prevent it from firing.. i wouldnt keep the 4nine in my pocket though, ever! just in case you know?

I can't tell you exactly what it is. But from what I've read across a few communities, it's usually the contact that's the culprit. Any contact that is not 100% flat will create arcing. My guess is that your contact is not completely flat and it's causing some arcing. Judging by the photos, it's pretty far from it. Or it could be the negative on the battery that isn't flat.

im gonna have to sand/file it down.... urrrggghhh!

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Severas things for your to try: is Your switch Spring loaded?, and if so, what type of material is the switch. I had the same problem with a no name mod that had a cheap metal spring. and changed the spring from another one I had laying around made out of brass and solved the problem. Like if the coil of the spring was causing it to heat up. Try removing the spring and fire if you can without the spring to isolate the issue. If it doesn't heat up, then your spring is the issue. You may be able to convert it to repelling magnet switch depending on the design of your switch.

If it's not spring loaded, try cleaning the contacts with a Q-Tip and A tad of polishing compound. Then clean with alcohol.

If your contact are porous that might be the problem.

If you have a dremel you can try to rectify it.

Clean with alcohol to ensure you don't leave particles sitting on the contact.

Let us know if that helped.

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  • 4 weeks later...

SOOOOOO

Im tired of my button getting hot. I thought I saw some posts about it. but i tried cleaning it with a vinegar bath for a few hours and it worked for a day and now its getting hot again... ive noticed some crud on the silver pin that connects to the battery. im trying to scrape it off and then ill give it another bath. its weird since i gave it a bath it almost all came off and after just a couple days the crud is back? i dont get where its coming from since i barely touch the battery on the negative side or positive for that matter and the inside of the mod I dont touch at all...

Anyone have any tricks for a hot button?

I though I saw someone put a peice of kanthal between the button and the pin and said that should work but i have no idea where i had seen that...

Also a hot button can be because the battery cannot safely supply the power for the load..for instance ohm's law states my dual coil

.15 ohm build pulls 28A at 4.2v, so I need a batt rated at least 30A cont to be safe. So I use a batt rated at 35A that is safe for this build and my button does not get hot, nor the tube itself..in fact I have to chain vape it for it to even get warm..

I would also install a inline voltage meter and measure the voltage drop without the atty attached...subtract that reading from what your fully charged batt reads in your digital batt charger, or separate voltmeter..if its more than .2v

then I'd replace the switch...top cap pin

should be checked too, unless is hybrid.

Good luck, and vape safe !

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