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Hmm.


VapeMama

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I was using my Nautilus (5ml) on my Provari. :clap::yes It has a 1.8 ohm coil in it and registered on the Provari as 1.8-9, vaping at 3.9V. I switched the Nauti to my MVP2 when I needed to charge the battery in the Provari and on the MVP it registered 2.4 ohm vaping at the same volts! :ermm: That has me a bit confused. (Of course, it doesn't take much to confuse me!) Can one of you more enlightened souls try to explain this to a rather confused "old" lady???????

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from what ive heard different VV or VW devices sometimes read different ohms... but the resistance shouldnt change even though the volts and watts can. that seems to be a solid difference though ive heard of a few points but .5 is quite a difference... do you have any other devices that read ohms? or even an ohm meter?

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I know you did not build the coil, but this is why we all say not to trust the ohm reading on a device when building coils. The readings will be different on every device you use. Having said that, your Provari is more likely the most accurate of the two devices. The ohms will not change because of the voltage applied.

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I found the difference strange because my Protank2's generally read more closely on those two devices. No I don't have an ohms meter and I only check them on the devices to get a general idea of where I want to start vaping volt wise. And Comp you are right, I don't build my coils, no time for that!

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Just know that the device is not accurate and what you top it with could effect that. They are meant for protecting the device from damage more than giving accurate readings. Unless your building coils, you really don't need an ohm meter unless you want one.

These odd readings are normal between devices and like christov11 said, can be off by .5 to even .7 in these devices. Your reading is only off by .6 so I wouldn't worry about it. :)

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Just a thought, I just finished researching info on the mvp 2 before buying it and one issue that I found was the 510 pin getting pushed down to far and in some cases shorting the device. It seems the readings were flakey with this issue. Might want to look into that on the mvp.

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I agree with comp because I don't understand why we need to know these readings as long as what we are vaping is satisfying our taste buds and vaping needs. The only time I look at the readings on my Provari is if I feel I need to cut it up because it is too weak or down because it is tasting burnt.

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So I tried it myself. Using a KPT2 and a brand new stock 1.8 ohm coil.

My Provari mini says it's 1.9 ohms.

My Evic says it's 2.1 ohms.

My iTaste VTR is reading 1.9 ohms.

When I put it on a dedicated ohm reader it's reading 1.8 ohms like it's supposed to be (although stock coils are notorious for not being exactly what they're supposed to be). These variations are not surprising as I know better than to trust an APV to read the resistance accurately. :)

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Yeah sorry. I find .5 difference to be a lot.

But then again... Not sub ohming.... So it might only be that for me .5 is the difference between blowing myself up. And chasing...

With tanks I RARELY check the ohms. But if there's a difference in the vape I would just play with the voltage until I got what I wanted

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anywhere between 1.4-2.4 should be safe to use right?

correct me if im wrong.

If its safe though then it shouoldnt matter. just adjust the volts or watts and find your sweet spot with whatever resistance.

Personally I didnt check the resistance on the coils I bought (baught? I forget how to spell that) just trusted them to work out... maybe im too trusting

Edited by christov11
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I've tested like Tam... and get different readings between different devices, however the APV readings are always the worst (inaccurate).

My new ELeaf Ohm meter and my Fluke DMM match, and my no-name Ohm meter is usually within 0.02 (give or take), which is close enough even for sub-ohming readings. I don't trust my MPV's readings for anything but telling me the coil is not shorting out and that the device knows there is a coil there.

anywhere between 1.4-2.4 should be safe to use right?

correct me if im wrong.

If its safe though then it shouoldnt matter. just adjust the volts or watts and find your sweet spot with whatever resistance.

Personally I didnt check the resistance on the coils I bought (baught? I forget how to spell that) just trusted them to work out... maybe im too trusting

When you say "safe", what do you mean? On most APV devices, they will fire coils down to 1.2, and some will go down to 0.8 before the safety features prevent them from firing. So, yes... in that regard, coils higher than 1.2 Ohms are "safe" for most every APV or eGo-style battery sold (crappy clones may be an exception?)

You are correct in adjusting the Voltage or Wattage to find your sweet spot is the key, but if your juice tastes best at 8.5W, setting your APV to that will maintain the same taste (or really close) regardless of the coil's resistance. That is how I use my MVP today... I can use a 1.5-2.5 coil @ 9W and the juice tastes the same... but the battery drains a tad faster with lower resistance coils, and higher resistance coils take an extra second to heat up enough to really produce flavor/vapor.

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wouldnt the juices taste depend more on the heat produced by the coil. how fast it heats up and how much it heats up? which is probably in direct relation.

Is that dependent on the watts & volts? I thought it was just the resistance or that they all worked together... where you would have a 1.0 ohm coil that could heat up as fast and as hot as a 2.0 ohm coil depending on the wattage and voltage you throw at it. and then thats where the safety comes in because the battery would have to be able to handle that much watts & volts...

Maybe im seeing it all wrong and I dont want to polute the thread too much with my own misunderstandings haha

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Yes and no... lol

Lower resistance coils DO heat faster, but on a regulated device like an MVP, VTR, Vamo, etc, you are limiting the Voltage applied or the Wattage (power) to a specific point. Ohm's Law still applies, but a regulated device makes one of the variables a constant (upper-limit). In the case of setting Wattage limits, the Voltage is adjusted up or down (based on the coil resistance) to provide the Wattage specified.

On my MVP (set at 9W), my juice has little taste differences between a 1.5 or 2.5 Ohm coil, the difference is the Amps used from the battery and current (Voltage) applied to achieve the Wattage I've specified, and yes, a 2.5 ohm coil does take a fraction longer to reach it's max-heat, so longer draws are necessary, but on the same coin... the coil also cools slower so chain-vaping provides a smooth/steady vape, if that makes sense?

On an unregulated MOD, you're applying the battery's Voltage (up to 4.2V, normally), and Ohm's Law determines the Wattage (power) based on the resistance of the coil. Amps used from the battery are subject to only the limits of Ohm's Law, and that is why you have to use a GOOD battery for sub-ohming, or risk catastrophic failure due to high Amp loads generated by low resistance (to achieve light-bulb-ish Wattages).

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