A couple mech clone questions.

[Dasfriek]

I'm looking to add another mech clone to my pile.

Are copper mechs sold sealed so they don't tarnish quickly? I ask as I bought a black coated Stingray wich was copper underneath, But the Black coating was crap and I soon had to sand it off and expose the copper.

It tarnished quickly but the bad part is the tarnish looks like a dirty pink color.

I just don't want to buy another headache to keep clean.

I love to looks of the 4nine copper mod but I find the top cap with no pin may be a fitment nightmare?

I only use flat top VTC5's but I do have small magnets to help adjust them.

I also like the copper Penny mod clone, and the copper Overdose any comments?

I like the recessed button on these.

Edited August 11, 2014 by Dasfriek

[mvince201]

All copper mods to my knowledge come.bare. you can Polish it.and spray it with clear and it will be good to.go.though

Out of.the.three you listed, which are all great mods. I.would go with.the 4nine because of the.hybrid cap.

[Dasfriek]

I'm thinking the copper in my once black stingray may not be the best of copper due to the color the tarnish turns pink.

I actually wrapped it in clear tape after polishing it to seal it, works well so far.

With the 4nines cap the atomizers center pin connects to the top of the battery right? What do you do with a flush non adjustable atomizer? How's the recessed switch feel on the clones?

Is it a spring or magnetic setup and can it be swapped to magnets if need be?

Edited August 11, 2014 by Dasfriek

[mvince201]

It is a magnet switch. I can't speak on any fitment issues as I do not own one myself I just have several buddies that do. I absolutely love the switch. All I have used have been great.

Which stingray clone do you have?

[Dasfriek]

I'm not sure who made the Stingray, but it's a full tube set with the drip tip included. The black coating lasted 2 days.

I already had to replace the magnets after 1.5 months.

Edited August 12, 2014 by Dasfriek

[Earthling789]

When you sanded off the black, did you use an iron-base sandpaper or steel-wool? Both of these will deposit zinc onto the copper, which will cause a pinkish residue/oxide/tarnish. A soak in Hydrogen Peroxide (stuff in the black or brown bottle from the drug-store) for 20-30 minutes, and then a good Copper polish like Copper Bright or Wright's Copper Polish will finish the job off.... Unless the MOD is actually pot-metal or cheap brass with a Copper plating? If that is the case, sanding off the black likely removed a lot of the Copper plate and you're left with the base-metal which could be anything...

[Dasfriek]

I used wet and dry automotive sandpaper by Gator.

If that's the case and you think it will oxidize normally with a hperoxide bath I'll try that.

It doesn't appear plated, I've sanded on it several times to remove the odd tarnish as normal acids and salt did nothing to clean it.

I watched a review about the 4nine and I think I'll be perfectly happy with it. But I'm gonna watch reviews on the Penny,Pegasus and Overdose and Vanilla mods also.

But I do take your opinions higher in consideration than videos. Those just help to see the insides.

[mvince201]

The pegasus clone by vapetech is outstanding and has the least voltage drop of almost any mod.

[Earthling789]

Automotive wet/dry sandpaper does contain Zinc, and Zinc will cause a pink oxidation on Copper, Brass (mostly copper anyway), and Silver-plated items. It can be a pain to remove if it sets up deep, and may require several treatments and/or a buffing with a GOOD Copper polish and a wool pad (high speed). I've seen a lot of Zinc contamination on brass, especially when wet/dry sandpaper is involved. A Green Scotch-brite pad contains no Zinc, and does wonders to remove heavy oxidation from Copper or Brass, but it also gives it a "brushed" look, too as it will scratch the surface. Most steel-wool has Zinc added as a rust inhibitor so the pads don't rust on store shelves from humidity.

Once the Zinc contamination is removed and a good polish is used to further neutralize contaminants... it will begin to patina naturally again.

[Dasfriek]

What about a copper scrub pad like chorboy?

I don't think it's very deep as I used many grits and mostly fine all the way too 1500 grit.

I have plenty peroxide as i really would rather have a natural copper tarnish.

[Earthling789]

I think if you give it a 20-min soak (or two) in Peroxide, and then use a good copper polish to get into the fine scratches... it should take care of the problem. Using a copper pad like that won't hurt anything to work off any visible "pink", but the Peroxide soak is the key, followed by Copper polish applied/buffed with a wool pad (I use a Dremel Tool with a wool wheel, or a wool wheel on my bench-grinder). It will shine like brand-new with a little time and TLC.

[mvince201]

My stingray before and after patina Sometimes it gets weird colors on it, but has always came off with a polish.

[Dasfriek]

All good tips, I will do them soon.

I like the patina look on yours mvince, mine wasn't half that good.

I'm rather settled on the 4nine mod after looking further into all the ones I mentioned.

Plus the fact if they came sealed or not always bugged me since mine was cheaply painted.

[mvince201]

Just keep a dremil with a polishing wheel handy :p. Takes me about 8 minutes to Polish a copper mod

[sparc]

The Glazed Copper Vanilla is sealed to prevent tarnish.

[Earthling789]

The Glazed Copper Vanilla is sealed to prevent tarnish.

Many of the Brass and Copper "anything" are coated to maintain their luster longer, but constant handling will break down those coatings from the oils in your fingers, over time. A lot of times they begin to look like the hood of a weathered car, with peeling clear-coat, lol... when they hit that point... I strip the lacquer-coating and polish as needed. You can always re-lacquer them, but they'll just break-down, chip, and peel again and again.