hookahhighness Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 idk about any one else but everytime i build one my botton button SOMETIMES get hot now its not everytime really far and few actually but it does i know my build isnt getting hot spots or getting shorted and im using good batteries either vtc4's of purple efest 35 amp. just seeing in this happens to anyone else? maybe im doing something wrong but it also happens to me friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 If your button is getting that hot, then you are either too low, or you are shorting out somewhere. No other possibility. A picture of your build/mod/atty would help. What ohm is your coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookahhighness Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 .23 ohms 4/3 wrap with 24 gauge idk whee it would be getting a short at it reads fine on my hanna clone and if there was a short it wouldnt let it fire, i only slap it on my hanna to check ohms and if possible shortage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Single coil? Wrapped on what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookahhighness Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 2.5 mm percision screwdriver which is close to a 3-32nd bit and like i said im building a dual in a patriot clone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Okay so here's the thing. A parallel 24g dual coil 4 wrap on a 3/32 is no where near .23 You should be checking every build with a dedicated ohm meter, not a mod. With that build you should be closer to .15 Does this problem occur with any battery? If so, then like I said you're shorting out somewhere. Could be your atty, could be your mod, could be your coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 I'm running dual parallel 5 wrap 24g on a 3/32 as we speak, and I'm setting at .21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookahhighness Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 i have an ohm reader and a multi reader and its reading at .23 as we speak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookahhighness Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 if it is ne thing its got to be the atty ive put it through hell and back i need to replace the resister cap again for sure i know it got a lil jacked up a few days ago from heat from coils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshuab3687 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Try cleaning your threads and then apply NoAlox (sp?) to the threads. Also, converting to magnets in your switch may help. I'm running ridiculous low ohms on my nemmy with no hot button issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Try cleaning your threads and then apply NoAlox (sp?) to the threads. Also, converting to magnets in your switch may help. I'm running ridiculous low ohms on my nemmy with no hot button issues. Running .14 on my nemmy currently, stays cool as cucumber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ej1024 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Its getting hot cuz its too hot!! Check ur battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Compenstine Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 This started happening on my Magneto couple months ago. I took it apart cleaned all the threads and no more hot button. I was using the same battery. Josh makes a valid point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshuab3687 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 What needs to be understood is that our mod tubes are the direct negative conductors. When threads are dirty, the negative electrons build up in the mod tubes and/or firing buttons. Clean threads mean cool hands. Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 What needs to be understood is that our mod tubes are the direct negative conductors. When threads are dirty, the negative electrons build up in the mod tubes and/or firing buttons. Clean threads mean cool hands. What do you use to clean the threads, Josh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshuab3687 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I use alcohol and q-tips. Once they're dry, I use a dab of Noalox on the threads. Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 What do you use to clean the threads, Josh? I usually use a pretty fine wire brush. Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thanks for the recs, guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvince201 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 By pretty fine I mean really fine. As not to accidentally scratch your mod. Although I polish mine so I don't really care lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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