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Kanger Protank Best Performance


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I was poking around in the dark when I started out with ecigs, and wound up with the following preferred combination:

  • Kanger Protank 2
  • Air Flow base, wide open
  • 1.5 ohm coil
  • K101 mech mod
  • Flavorless 80 VG/20 PG liquid

And for a while that was fantastic.

When I replaced my coil recently, however, I started getting a burnt taste out of the 1.5s. I've tried a couple of coils and it keeps happening. I burn the back of my throat after the second hit.

I'd love your help finding either a fix or a replacement setup. I like the pre-builts because I like not having to fiddle with RDAs and prefer a tank to a dripper. I enjoy vaping, but not so much tinkering.

A few questions for those willing to answer:

  • Should I switch to 1.8 ohms? Will I see a loss in vapor production?
  • I tried the ProTank 3 and wasn't impressed with vapor production. Was I doing something wrong?
  • What's the best vapor production combination you've found on a Protank?

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With a fixed voltage (non-variable voltage) battery or mod I prefer to use 1.8 ohm coils like bcarter. The 1.5 ohm coils tend to run too hot for my preference. That's what I'm using in my KPT2 on a K100.

You might also look into getting a simple variable voltage battery like the Vision Spinner or Vision Spinner v2 so you can control how much voltage your coils are getting. The settings go from 3.3v to 4.8v so you can lower the voltage for the 1.5 ohms. That should probably reduce the burnt taste you're getting. :)

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I use PT2's quite often, and have run 1.5, 1.8, and 2.2 Ohm coils. I find my sweet-spot on the Wattage to be 8-9W, which means my Voltage is auto-set by my MVP. If your MOD is only Voltage-settable, then you'll need to adjust your voltage to 3.5V for a 1.5 coil and 4.2V for a 2.2 coil.... those are rough averages, give or take for 8W... your choices may be higher or lower.

A burnt taste typically means your MOD is set too high in Voltage or Wattage (since you've already ruled out the coil)... have you tried turning it down a notch or two?

Also, using 20/80 pg/vg juice, vapor production should not be an issue, regardless of settings (unless WAY low), but 80% vg will gum-up a coil much faster than lower vg ratios. I tend to like 70/30 to 50/50 pg/vg ratio juices.... good flavor, not a heavy throat-hit, and decent vapor that doesn't fog-up a room (I'm not a cloud-chaser).

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A burnt taste typically means your MOD is set too high in Voltage or Wattage (since you've already ruled out the coil)... have you tried turning it down a notch or two?

The K101 that he's using is a fixed voltage device. It's firing at around 3.7 volts. :)

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The K101 that he's using is a fixed voltage device. It's firing at around 3.7 volts. :)

Thanks Tam... I wasn't sure if that was VV device or not :P

For 3.7V @ 1.5 Ohms, that battery/coil combo is pushing a bit over 9.1W of power... and for 20/80 juice, that may be too much, thus why he's getting a burnt taste, especially on the second hit (slower wicking, high wattage).

Yep, I agree... for that Voltage, a 1.8 Ohm coil will deliver better performance, and even a 2.2 wouldn't be "bad"... just be on the low-end of the performance specs.

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Thanks for all the responses to this. I think I may have either gotten a batch of 1.8 ohm coils that were improperly marked or it may be a QC issue, since I've been using the 1.5 ohm with the 3.7V output of a mech mod since I got started. I'll try switching to the 1.8s and see if there's a marked difference.

I want to like the new Kanger dual coils - the ones that fit the Protank 3s - but the vapor production seems anemic on those. Maybe I've just got to play with a VV a bit more.

Much as I love the idea of RBAs, I just never have the time to sit and perfect the builds, so these pre-builts are a great, easy-to-maintain alternative.

Any of you guys have experience getting the new dual coils to prime output? I'm not a cloud chaser or anything, but I still want a solid lungfull.

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QC is not fantastic at the factory, but they are generally "close". I've had 1.5's actually measure 1.5, but I've also had them read 1.4-1.9, although I'm sure the one that read 1.9 was likely a coil wound to 1.8 and got mixed up in the 1.5 assembly line. For the most part, the Kanger coils I've received are really close to the marking on the side, +/- 0.1, with a few exceptions, like I stated earlier.

As for anemic vapor production... I've not had that issue, even if using 80/20 juices. Yeah, my 50/50 juices produce much better vapor, but that is to be expected due to higher VG content. If you're still using 80% VG, vapor should not be "anemic" unless the coils are horribly off their markings on the side. Like I stated in my above post, 1.5 and 1.8 will hit 9.1W and 7.6W respectively on a 3.7V battery. When you venture up to 2.2 or higher on the coils, you're firing 6W or less, which is not "hot"... being 2/3 (or less) of the power produced through a 1.5 Ohm coil.

Do you have a real Ohm-meter or at least a reliable digital multi-meter to test the resistance of those coils, to be sure of what they are reading?

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i have gotten a bad batch of kanger coils before. maybe once or twice out of dozens of boxes. i have recently switched to aspire glassomizers with dual coils. i swear by them instead of at them like i did the kangers on occasion. i set them at about 9-9.5 watts on my MVP and get massive vapor and taste. :)

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i have gotten a bad batch of kanger coils before. maybe once or twice out of dozens of boxes. i have recently switched to aspire glassomizers with dual coils. i swear by them instead of at them like i did the kangers on occasion. i set them at about 9-9.5 watts on my MVP and get massive vapor and taste. :)

I ordered a Nautilus to give it a try. Can't say I care for the appearance - too involved for my taste - but I'll take performance and reliability over appearance. Thanks for the recommendation; I'll give it a shot.

Do you have a real Ohm-meter or at least a reliable digital multi-meter to test the resistance of those coils, to be sure of what they are reading?

My Vamo has them reading at about 1.7, but I'm not sure I'd consider the Vamo a reliable source.

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My Vamo has them reading at about 1.7, but I'm not sure I'd consider the Vamo a reliable source.

Yeah, it is the consensus that your MOD's meter is not as accurate or reliable as a true Ohm-meter or multi-meter. I've seen the meter on my MVP read the same coil differently each time I press the button... sometimes ranging 0.5 Ohms from stated resistance, sometimes it's right on the money.

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