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Posted

Other option if it is wicking is your juice just can't take the heat. Some juice can't handle much more than an ego setup.

Posted

To put it this way, I have had to adjust airflow, wick density and length and coil ohm's for every single juice.

Posted

yep again burnt fast it tasts burnt this time the wick is only just browned

but my coil is center out now .... trying cotton now

Posted

Good stuff. When I first figured mine out I would get the coil right and sometimes take 3-4 times to get the cotton wick right for the particular juice and even resistance of the coil. The hotter you go the quicker it has to wick. 1ohm I felt was the limit for mine.

Posted

mines having wicking issues now it at first wicked 2 much and i kept blowing juice out of the air hole now it dont wick enough and i get a burnt taste and have to cover the hole and suck to pull juice thru and it vapes fine any comments?

Posted

Comment would be adjusting wicking and airflow is the most important part. Keep trying to perfect it. You can achieve awesome results so don't get frustrated.

Posted

When you open up the air valve it lets more air flow and less vacuum on the wicks to juice. You get more air to keep the coil cooler but you don't wick as fast. The thicker the juice the worse this will be. You need a wick that is NOT dense and falling right before the channels. That is why I mentioned my most recent setup is only doable on 50/50 juice. My bud got burnt wicks at first too until he tried the wicks like I make them.

I can take a few pictures for you when I get a chance. If that would help.

Right now I am getting fast and cooler vapor production, very very smooth yet dense and extremely fresh flavor.

Its kind of a harmony you have to achieve. Enough air to cool, yet not so much you lose the vacuum to the wicks. This is why I swapped from 70pg down to 50 pg.

Once I get mine set a wick will last a week and a coil about a month. when I pull wicks they are still the color of the juice. The coil will get build up and during wick changes you burn off the coil red hot with the cotton removed.

Posted

Now if you are doing something as slow heating as 2.8 ohm it probably wouldn't matter if it barely wicked at all. When you drop to 1.3 to 1 on a kayfun with a mech like yours or mine it lights up FAST and STRONG so you need that wicking to be very substantial.

Posted

Yeah, there is a little flat head screw under the base. Back it out or in to adjust. Or take it completely out if you get wicking that well set up. :)

Let me know if you need more help.

Posted

When you open up the air valve it lets more air flow and less vacuum on the wicks to juice. You get more air to keep the coil cooler but you don't wick as fast. The thicker the juice the worse this will be. You need a wick that is NOT dense and falling right before the channels. That is why I mentioned my most recent setup is only doable on 50/50 juice. My bud got burnt wicks at first too until he tried the wicks like I make them.

I can take a few pictures for you when I get a chance. If that would help.

Right now I am getting fast and cooler vapor production, very very smooth yet dense and extremely fresh flavor.

Its kind of a harmony you have to achieve. Enough air to cool, yet not so much you lose the vacuum to the wicks. This is why I swapped from 70pg down to 50 pg.

Once I get mine set a wick will last a week and a coil about a month. when I pull wicks they are still the color of the juice. The coil will get build up and during wick changes you burn off the coil red hot with the cotton removed.

This should say switched from 70 VG to 50 VG. So to have a thinner faster wicking juice.

Posted

And the center pin is not meant to be screwed with. That connects through the isolator and to the terminal. If the connected terminal ever comes loose, hold it and tighten the flat head. you want this good and tight.

Posted

Ah, 100 VG is going to be hard my friend. With mothers milk, basically extremely high VG, I was able to get it to work very well but the wicks had to be so perfect and the airflow could NOT be wind open or even close.

Posted

100 VG at 1.5-1.8 is easy though. And you get a ton of vapor since its VG. Mothers milk in mine at 1.5 is crazy. Its just too expensive for me.

Posted

There are two flat head screws. One in the 510 post and one on the base. The smaller on the base opens up your airflow as you back it out or tightens airflow as you thread it in. You may need to clear out your kayfun if it got full of juice.

Hold your finger over the air hole on the side and see if you can draw air. Then take the screw completely out and do the same thing. Notice now you can still draw air?

You can even hear a change in the pitch of the air flow when you adjust this.


Don't mess with the center 510 flat head screw unless you have it disassembled and you can see your not rotating the terminal and causing a short.

Posted (edited)

Ok, After reading all this. I have the kfl+ and am having problems with fruit flavors. I'm just not tasting them. I use a 50/50 juice at 1.1ohms. My adv is menthol (no tobacco) at 18 nic. And it's perfect. But flavors are very weak. How can i fix this? I can't figure out if it less airflow more flavor or more airflow. Thanks.

Edited by Eaglewtchr
Posted

Trial and error is how I figured each flavor in mine.


yes i know that it got stuck on open i forced it it went

Stuck on open?

You using a real kayfun? Threads on mine are practically no resistance. You cross thread it?

Posted

Spyke,

Why don't you start by posting up some pics of your coil build showing it in relation to the air hole. Also pics of your wick before and after it is saturated with juice. I can't help all that much if I don't know what you are working with.

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