Picked up my MVP 2.0 this morning, have a question...

[Earthling789]

I just picked up my MVP 2.0 (Titanium Blue) this morning, and have a question on operation...

I've played with these before, enough to know I wanted one, lol... and the clerk at the B&M I bought it from really took the time to show me all the features (of several MODs) when I was making a decision... BUT, there seems to be a discrepancy between the actual operation and the included manual...

The manual indicates pressing P and U together for 2-seconds cause the display to cycle between these four readouts: Resistance, Voltage, Puff-count, and Watts, in that order. BUT, when I press the two together, I'm only getting the FIRST TWO of the readouts (even if I hold the buttons longer)... resistance and voltage. If I want to see the puff-count or power, I have to press the P button. Pressing the U button shows puff-count and voltage. So, singularly, the buttons are functioning as they should, but pressing both does not cycle through all four displays.

Is this normal operation for the most recent version, or is something wrong?

It appears to be functioning normally... as when I increase Wattage, it is obviously increasing power... at 8.0, I'm getting a burnt taste (I could probably cook bacon on max-power, lol). At 6.5 or 7.0 seems to be the sweet-spot for my 2.2 ohm single-coil, and 7.5 seems to be a good place for my 1.5 ohm dual-coil.

I've also tried four different tank/coil combos, and it is reading the Resistance accurately for each one, but nothing I've done so far is getting the display to cycle through all four of the read-outs

[charliestheman]

Yours is working as its supposed to where pressing both buttons at once will show ohm followed by voltage for capacity. Holding down the P or V (looks like a U but it's a V for Voltage) either one will show your puff counter followed by that setting where you tap it.

I'm not sure about the manual, but holding down both buttons (well actually its just a press now that I think about it) should show ohms followed by a voltage readout which tells you the batteries remaining capacity.

Setting wattage like you're already doing is the way to go, so sounds like you're already doing everything just right.

I've never seen mine cycle all four readouts or read in any of the forum users instructions that it should, I have my manual I can check and see if mines wrong (well different from what it really does). I'm usually a manual reader, but in this case I read several how to guide type threads and I don't know if I ever read the manual after I learned how to use it, and if I read it before I used it, I was such a noob I didn't know what I was looking at wasn't how it worked lol.

Nice catch on that.

Edited May 12, 2014 by charliestheman

[Earthling789]

Yeah, I'm not a fan of reading "broken English" manuals either, but I had to refer to the manual because I was confused why there was an on/off switch at the bottom when you have to press 3x on the power button to activate/deactivate the unit.

The clerk at the shop gave me a good overview/tutorial, but failed to mention the on/off switch on the bottom was ONLY for activating/deactivating the USB discharge port (for charging cell-phone or similar device).

As I read through the manual, I found the info I was asking about on page 3, under "Ohms Meter & Battery Level Indicator & Puff Counter", the first paragraph indicates the display cycles through four readings if you push both buttons together for 2-seconds, as I indicated above.

I assumed there was nothing wrong with the unit's functionality, but just wanted to make absolutely sure it was operating correctly for the displays (before my warranty expired).

Thanks for letting me know all is well!

[charliestheman]

You got it, the On/Off switch on the bottom is for the power output, like if you plug in a cell phone to charge or any other USB device, it works like an external battery bank. The On/Off switch controls that output from to the USB power supply to the other device.

If I think of any other quirks/learn as you go type things I'll let you know, but it sounds like you pretty much got it all figured out.

Oh something I learned is don't overtighten carto tanks, they will push the center pin down if the tank itself has a center pin. I think it happens often but people don't notice because they use the same tank usually, but if you have one tank with a long center pin it will push the pin down if you screw it far enough on the threads, and then if you take it off and your other tank has a short center pin there might not be enough threads to make contact.

I did that and the fix was to get a tiny screwdriver and very gently pry up on the center pin back and fourth side to side. It only makes like a nano-millimeter's but when it comes to firing a tank it's like the difference in night and day.

Now what I do is tighten the carto down to where its finger snug, and if the pin makes good contact but the 510 connection isn't as solid as I'd like, I'll screw the beauty ring up a thread or so, so that the connection is solid between the 510 connection and the ego threads for the beauty ring, but my cartomizer isn't pressed down completely against the top of the MVP 2.0. It's hard to describe, but it lets the beauty ring and tank press against each other for a super solid connection, like hammer nails type solid, but doesn't force the center pin down into the mod.

I learned that the hard way and the reason I thought of that incident was to tell you that if you ever go to take it apart, the button will keep the top part from coming out of the case until you push it through its housing lol. And also, the center pin isn't adjustable that I could find by taking the top off the mod with those allen screws so it's gotta be "friction lifted."

Edited May 12, 2014 by charliestheman

[Earthling789]

Good piece of info to share on "going too tight" on the tanks, and using the beauty ring as a compression point to prevent the tank from moving further up/down. The guy at the shop warned me of the same thing, most likely because he'd experienced the same issue by cranking one on there really tight. I wasn't aware the center pin on the MOD was moveable, but I've already ran into a couple of tanks where the center pin compressed a "fraction" into the tank/coil, and would suddenly only work on ONE battery. A little tweak with my tweezers or finger-nail to pull the contact out just a hair and the tank worked again on other batteries.

I don't think I'll be taking the MOD apart, but who knows, I may get bored one day, lol

[Eaglewtchr]

I have a question. I have a MVP 2.0 and was trying to figure out if I use the voltage settings does the MVP stop at 11 watts or will it go above that? Like say, 5 volts setting and a 1.43 ohm coil figures out to roughly 17.48 watts. Now will i get 17 watts or will it only go to 11 watts even though ohms law says different? I know, I'm confused too

[Earthling789]

I have a question. I have a MVP 2.0 and was trying to figure out if I use the voltage settings does the MVP stop at 11 watts or will it go above that? Like say, 5 volts setting and a 1.43 ohm coil figures out to roughly 17.48 watts. Now will i get 17 watts or will it only go to 11 watts even though ohms law says different? I know, I'm confused too

This is a good question!

I sent an email to Innokin and posed several questions regarding setting and coil combinations which would theoretically exceed the manufacturing specs.... I'll post up the answer once I get a reply.

One thing that did hit me, though, is that my 1.5 Ohm dual coil atomizers are actually 3.0 Ohm (total), so 5V with that coil would produce Wattage within specs (8.3W) @ 1.667 Amps. I do, however see the issue when using a 1.8 Ohm single-coil @ 5V setting. Ohm's Law dictates 13.89W and 2.8A, which exceed the stated specs of the battery.

[charliestheman]

It wont go above the 11 watts IMO, regardless of where its set. It will fire well below 2 ohms, but you can tell when you take a 1.6 or 1.8 ohm coil build on an RDA from something like a DNA 20 at 5 volts or 11 watts and drop it on the MVP, it will fire it but it's not matching the power output it shows, it will take a long time to get the coils to glow or hot enough to produce vapor, usually around when it starts making vapor, the timer shuts it off.

If you were to use an inline meter I would guess that you would see the 5 volt output dip quite a bit when you pull a load on it like a big vape where it's trying to keep up.

Even with a 2 or 2.2 ohm build if you fire it at 11 watts you can feel how hot the battery gets trying to keep up with the current that's being pulled.

My sweet spot on my MVP 2.0 and RDA coils was 2.2 ohms single coil in voltage mode maxed out. It would have an obvious drop off under load but would still vape quite decent.

For some real numbers and charts, PBusardo did a hell of a job with the MVP 2.0 in my opinion. There's links to this in other threads by just in case people haven't seen those and run across this thread

Edited May 13, 2014 by charliestheman

[Earthling789]

He did a really good test and the graphical view confirms what I expected... the unit will not function lower than 3.3V or higher than 5.0V based on Wattage settings and coil configuration... same thing for Wattage outputs based on Voltage setting and coil configuration, limited to a low of 6W and high of 11W. Despite what we hope for, the manual limitations seem to also be the physical limitations.

I'm still curious to see what Innokin has to say, and will post their response once (if) they email me back.

Thanks for the video posting... I've seen it posted before, but never bothered to click on it

[Eaglewtchr]

Thank you for that. I watched the video and that was very informative. So basically, the MVP 2.0 will NOT go above 11 watts using 5 volts and a low ohm coil atleast according to the video but, I'm still curious as to what Innokin has to say. Thanks.

[Earthling789]

Well, I've not heard anything back from Innokin yet, but I didn't expect to get a rapid response either.

I know several OHM charts have been posted on here in the past, and there are several OHM's Law calculators out there, but I thought it would be interesting to see a chart based solely on the MVP 2.0 capabilities... so I made these while bored at work this morning

They read fairly straight-forward... anything with RED numbers is outside the capability/ratings of the unit. Everything in the BLUE is within the device's capabilities, and those in GREEN are what I deemed to be the Sweet-Spot (3.7V - 4.2V or 7.0W - 9.0W)

The first chart is showing Wattage outputs based on Voltage selection and Coil Resistance being used:

The second chart is showing Voltage outputs based on Wattage selection and Coil Resistance being used:

The last graph shows the Wattage curve based on Voltage selection and Coil Resistance. You can see from the graph, IMO, 1.5/1.6 Ohm coils, up to 2.4 Ohm coils have the greatest range of functionality with the MVP 2.0... and the most versatile coils being 2.0 or 2.1 Ohm coils, which is probably why Innokin supplies 2.1 Ohm rated tanks with the kit?.... but again, just my opinion: