Kanger Heads

[Richstag]

Yeah, after Ry took it apart and explained how the coil wire gets covered under it I believe the silicone insulator is getting torn.

I don't believe these are counterfeit but if they are I would like to know to avoid these sources.

Based on how these work without wrecking the insulator I believe they are real. I run the tank dry without a leak and it works perfect. Its been the occasions where there was a little careless handling.

I think Ry hit the nail on the head. Just use them and don't mess with them.

[bcartervol98]

I take mine in and out and tighten them as tight as I can. I tried to replicate your problem today and couldn't but I only use single coils.

[mvince201]

I take mine in and out and tighten them as tight as I can. I tried to replicate your problem today and couldn't but I only use single coils.

I did the same with dual coil heads, no issues at all. I even pulled the insulator out and put it back in several times.

[Richstag]

I did the same with dual coil heads, no issues at all. I even pulled the insulator out and put it back in several times.

Try really hitting the insulator with the inside thread of the 510 battery connection and twist that insulator around with it installed. Im pretty certain it was these two acts.

[Richstag]

BTW, I am glad to hear its not the norm because I bought quite a few of these now and for that reason I also really hope its not a counterfeit issue.

Thanks for the help in this thread.

[Richstag]

I just pulled my insulator out and it looks like its trying to seal up at least four wires.

Tomorrow I will look at it closer and maybe post a picture.

[mvince201]

On most of my coil heads the coil wires are actually visible without removing the insulator (as in the stick out the bottom of the center post a fraction of an inch). And these heads have worked fine for me without leakage. So I'm not sure how even a nick in this insulator could cause such a problem being as most of mine do not appear to be "sealed" straight out of the box.

[Richstag]

On most of my coil heads the coil wires are actually visible without removing the insulator (as in the stick out the bottom of the center post a fraction of an inch). And these heads have worked fine for me without leakage. So I'm not sure how even a nick in this insulator could cause such a problem being as most of mine do not appear to be "sealed" straight out of the box.

It appears the insulator seals the wire against the tube. At least on the one I just pulled apart.

As for counterfeiting I went to the address on the box listed as www.szkanger.com and typed in the authenticity code and it told me, "The products you purchased are authroized by KangerTech"

Thanks

[fishguy1123]

The insulator is there to keep the positive and negative wires from contacting each other. On dual coil heads you would have 4 wires. It is just a snug fit as you can see by haveing pulled one out. The after the metal pin is inserted it keeps them in place and makeing solid contact.

[Richstag]

IMG_0096 by Richstag, on Flickr

[Mtdobies]

I tore one of my single coils apart (was leaking bad) and it had a tear, so has to be figured out.

[ChesapeakeVapor]

Guys, I have pulled several of these apart and it really isn't as big an issue as this has been blown out to be. As I stated before, the insulators are now made out of silicone as opposed to rubber. People had been complaining to Kanger that they were tasting rubber when using these. I am assuming this is because they were pushing more wattage through the heads and over heating the coils and subsequently heating up the rubber or even burning it. So, Kanger switched to silicone which is a softer material and not as apt to burn and give off an unwanted taste. The dual coil heads that myself and Kevin have been running work just fine and are definitely not counterfeit. This appears to be an issue of what I will deem as "over-fiddling". No need for alarm, just take care when inserting and removing your heads for cleaning and you will be just fine with single, dual, whatever ohm heads from Kanger.

Mtdobies, if you have a tear in your insulator I would recommend discontinuing use of that head. You don't want juice leaking onto your battery and of course the tank will gurgle and flood and you will not enjoy the experience. Further back in this thread there is a link for insulators if you would like to purchase some and rebuild that head. If you vape these at a lower wattage, say on a ego or something like that the rubber ones will do you well and be more robust. However, if you are using this on something of a higher wattage or intend to, I would recommend going with the silicone and just be careful as you insert and remove the heads.

[Mtdobies]

Oh it was a no longer used one, due to flooding actually.

Thank you.

[VinceJE]

Maybe not all that unusual... I have the ProTank II, Protank II Mini, & T3S and all of them leak after replacing the original coil. I've gone through / tried multiple coils in each of the tanks and they all flood, I also use each on difference eGo batteries, so the battery thread theiry isn;t the answer for mine. Quite the disappointment.

[bcartervol98]

Maybe not all that unusual... I have the ProTank II, Protank II Mini, & T3S and all of them leak after replacing the original coil. I've gone through / tried multiple coils in each of the tanks and they all flood, I also use each on difference eGo batteries, so the battery thread theiry isn;t the answer for mine. Quite the disappointment.

I find it extremely unusual. I have 6 KPT 2s and 12 Davide Minis and all I use are 1.8ohm Kanger coils and after using probably 200+ coils in the last year I had one that leaked.

[Bebop]

Maybe not all that unusual... I have the ProTank II, Protank II Mini, & T3S and all of them leak after replacing the original coil. I've gone through / tried multiple coils in each of the tanks and they all flood, I also use each on difference eGo batteries, so the battery thread theiry isn;t the answer for mine. Quite the disappointment.

That is highly unusual.

My first guess is that the coil head is not seated firmly enough in the base before you screw the tank on. It is really the only thing that leads to the kind of leaking you describe. These are not precision machined. They do bind a little sometimes and take a little bit of effort but that coil head must be screwed in to the base firmly.

I have been through a hundred coils or more with all the tanks you have and have never had a leak unless the coil is not screwed in to the base.

[Mtdobies]

I did find this myself w the coil heads, if I go back and reset them and tighten them I Dont have a leak problem.

Except on my trophy tank, that's a piece of worthless glass and metal, period.

[bcartervol98]

If you are not swabbing out the shaft at every refill and checking to ensure your coil is finger tight at each refill then that could be your issue. When the rubber ring that keeps liquid fits snugly against the bottom of the shaft gets turned counter clockwise (like when taking off the base) it will sometimes loosen. I tighten mine as tight as I possibly can with my fingers and check at each fill.