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Wrapping coils for n00bs


Tw1sted

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Be careful with the ithaka. If you are hurt starting to wrap coils know that you have to have resistance and non resistance wire and a wire joiner if you want to do it correctly. This is what turned me off of the ithaka and the prometheus.

I like to keep things simple

I listened a little closer this time he's using 1.2 ohm "Ready Wire". Resistance and non resistance, WTF? Glad you caught that.

Im a n00b to coil wrapping so, like you said, I prefer to keep things simple too. I'll just stick to rebuilding good ol KPT coils with 32 gauge Kanthal for the time being.

Thanks for making me aware of that! :thumbup:

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I almost made the same mistake. You can buy pre made coils for it but that takes the fun out of it.

Do you know of an RBA that i can make dual coils with that utilizes 32 gauge Kanthal and 3.5mm silica wick?

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The kayfun supports dual coils but it only has 2 post but you can Def rock it with dual coils. I had a dual coil wrap on mine called the double barrel. You can use any kind of wick you want but I prefer and recommend cotton. It carries flavor better than silica to me

Damn! Kayfun's are pretty pricey! I could get 2 Kanger protanks for less than the price of one Kayfun Lite plus... Is it worth it?

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The kayfun supports dual coils but it only has 2 post but you can Def rock it with dual coils. I had a dual coil wrap on mine called the double barrel. You can use any kind of wick you want but I prefer and recommend cotton. It carries flavor better than silica to me

Just checked out the Kayfun lite Svoemesto Clone? Got any input on that one?

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I have a kayfun clone and an original. I could tell you the clone is just as good but I would be lying. The main difference between the two is the machining. They preform the same.

And yes its worth it. Even if you don't get an authentic it will still be the best vape you've ever had. IMO

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I have a kayfun clone and an original. I could tell you the clone is just as good but I would be lying. The main difference between the two is the machining. They preform the same.

And yes its worth it. Even if you don't get an authentic it will still be the best vape you've ever had. IMO

Cool! Thanks! :thumbup:

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There is no nickel in kanthal. Ni chrome or nickel chromium is another material but it's considered inferior to kanthal from everything I've read. Kanthal is a trademark for a specific material that doesn't include nickel from what I've seen.

Edited by Bebop12
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The kayfun supports dual coils but it only has 2 post but you can Def rock it with dual coils. I had a dual coil wrap on mine called the double barrel. You can use any kind of wick you want but I prefer and recommend cotton. It carries flavor better than silica to me

Kickass! I'm definitely ordering me a Kayfun lite Sovemesto clone and doin' this!

Just waiting till payday. :guitar:

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Kickass! I'm definitely ordering me a Kayfun lite Sovemesto clone and doin' this!

Just waiting till payday. :guitar:

Anyone with experience got a suggestion about the diameter size rod I should wrap my coils with for this build?

Im going to be using 32 gauge kanthal.

I have a micro screwdriver set that I was thinking I could use one to wrap around.

I have 1.19mm, 1.98mm, 2.38mm, and 3.17mm diameters.

Which is best to make a 1.0 ohm coil.... and how many wraps?

Going with cotton wick this time... So may people swear by it, so Im giving it a try.

.... Just looked at a chart. a 20 gauge needle is .91mm but hes using 30 gauge kanthal.

I could figure out the differences, just wonder if anyone had some input.

Edited by Tom74
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  • 11 months later...

whats all the hooplah over nickel??

I seen where Kanger has gone to nickel for their 0.12ohm replacement coils for the SubTanks.. (Nic200)

from what I've seen sooo far,, KANGER doesnt even make a mod that will fire this coil safely?????

I could be wrong on that but I havent found it on Kangers site...

 

also heard the other day that these new coils take a mod with temperature control to operate them safely...

 

my question is;

what makes it unsafe to fire these coils in MY SubTank Nano on a mechanical mod???

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Hooker,

 

N200 is a nickel wire. Those coils have been designed to be used with the DNA40 chipset mods like the Vaporshark DNA40, the vaporflask dna40 or any other regulated mod that uses the Evolv DNA40 board.

If you use them in your sub-tank on a mech mod, you will burn up the cotton instantly, not to mention that .12 ohms is a dead short as far as a mech mod is concerned and your battery will most likely fail and vent. Kanthal has a higher resistance per foot and is suited for ordinary everyday vaping.

 

The N200 has a much lower resistance. those premade coils are extreme sub ohm and need the temperature regulation that the DNA40 is programmed to achive. With those mods you set the temperature you want to vape at, NOT the voltage or wattage.  

Edited by GeorgeF
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whats all the hooplah over nickel??

I seen where Kanger has gone to nickel for their 0.12ohm replacement coils for the SubTanks.. (Nic200)

from what I've seen sooo far,, KANGER doesnt even make a mod that will fire this coil safely?????

I could be wrong on that but I havent found it on Kangers site...

 

also heard the other day that these new coils take a mod with temperature control to operate them safely...

 

my question is;

what makes it unsafe to fire these coils in MY SubTank Nano on a mechanical mod???

 

You are correct, the nickel is for temperature control.  Apparently it changes resistance in a more stable fashion than Kanthal based on the temperature.  It is also very low resistance.  In fact most non resistance wire we use in coils (N-NR-N) is nickel.  It looks like a great technology if they get the bugs worked out.  I really think they misnamed it though it should be temperature limiting not control.  You can set your mod on 40 watts and use all 40 watts until the temp hits your limit, then it backs it off. Rixter posted a great video about it somewhere on here.  You can vape at 10 watts and 420 degrees and it will not change from 10 watts until your wick starts getting dry which causes the heat to go up, then it will limit it.  You can also vape at 40 watts and 420 degrees and if your wick can't keep up it will lower your voltage/wattage.  It is pretty cool, but finiky from what I have read.  I am currently building a DNA 25 mod that is temp controlled once the parts come in.

 

Is it safe on a mech?  I wouldn't recommend it! Calculating it on a 3.7 volt 18650 that is 31 Amps and 114 Watts.

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Anyone with experience got a suggestion about the diameter size rod I should wrap my coils with for this build?

Im going to be using 32 gauge kanthal.

I have a micro screwdriver set that I was thinking I could use one to wrap around.

I have 1.19mm, 1.98mm, 2.38mm, and 3.17mm diameters.

Which is best to make a 1.0 ohm coil.... and how many wraps?

Going with cotton wick this time... So may people swear by it, so Im giving it a try.

.... Just looked at a chart. a 20 gauge needle is .91mm but hes using 30 gauge kanthal.

I could figure out the differences, just wonder if anyone had some input.

Tom to answer your questions about coils the best place I have found is http://www.steam-engine.org/ . It is pretty self explanatory

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