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The cost of these chips alone are as much as most standard VV/VW mods like the Vamo, SID..etc. You can't buy a Ferrari for the cost of of a Toyota. ;) If you want a less expensive DNA 20 or 30 you would need to buy the chip and build one. Sorry but that is the only way. Doing a wood Mod would be the less expensive route. There are several people doing them and there are tutorials with parts lists available.

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Well this is the clone that caught my eye.

SX_-_1.png

It's the SX220.

Some Chinglish from a rep.

SX series is the NEWEST products. Forcus on the High Power. Their wattage is real. No matter Volt of battery is 3.2V or 4.2V, we SURE output 22W with %. No matter the 1ohm or 3ohm , we SURE output 22W with %. Efficiency is High 92%. board will not hot. DC to DC output. and the waveform of output is smoothly.
In order to match above requirements , the technical and material are different from normal devices which u mentioned in ur below email. The cost of those raw materials IC etc. are expensive so

They also seem to be making an SX350 which is able to be software updated.

you can download one software then can upgrade from 20W to 25w or 25W to 30W

At least it doesn't appear to be some stock pic of the DNA20. The pic I saw of the Amax mod was laughable in it's phoniness.

If the display is firmly attached to the board I see that as a big plus. It becomes a simple one step procedure to mount it. Evolv's floating display seems good in theory but in actual use has been a nightmare for many. Many modders have broken the flimsy wire loom and others have ended up with a not centered or crooked final product.

Either way Evolv is shooting itself in the foot by not being able to produce sufficient units.

As far as making a DNA20 mod it doesn't need to expensive if it's performance that is the most important.. The board itself at $50 may seem high but's it's ready to go. I've built a few VV mods using various inexpensive (but high quality) assemblies in the $3-$12 range, but these always required the sourcing of various support components and a few hours of assembly time. I like to apply some value to my labor.

Here's an example by Mr. Evolv himself.

Many of the current crop of tube DNA PVs are also using the built in buttons.

Many have also taken to using paralleled 20C LiPo packs (often to get just 2000mAh), as the cool in thing. Why? A battery that can sustain a solid 10A discharge is fine. Evolv's datasheet lists 7A IN for max performance. As you see in the the vid he is using is a 4.5C rated Panasonic high drain. In a similar build I would go with a Samsung INR, the 18650-20R is a true beast (and a real bargain ~$7 from trusted, reliable sources) or the maybe the new 24R (2400 mAh). I'm waiting for this guy to return to try INR18650-24R

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Samsung-SDI-18650-24R-INR18650-24R-2400mah-3-6V-25A-Li-ion-Ecigarette-Battery-/321239769775

I'm a bit put off by his shipping though as his other Samsung cells ship free. But so far he is the only game in town.

One 18650, one inexpensive batt holder (for a box mod) and one one PTC if you so desire.

In a box type mod I also would forgo Evolv's $7.50 charging module .

This seems like a better choice.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Mini+USB+Lithium+Battery+Charging+Board+Charger+Module+5V+1A&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?345500-Review-of-Measurement-on-Charger-module-with-TP4056-controller

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