Compenstine Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 Yeap working now... Just love that hiss crackle of an atty.
IMEDICx90 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 Hey pro and comp. just kicking around an idea, but I have a vtr laying around that I don't use since I can't use my atty's or drippers without the stupid extension, but could I theoretically just swap the boards with the 30 that I have and make it work? I would obviously have to use the screen from the DNA30 but I would put it in the existing display area(I.e. Cut a hole the same dimensions and put a cradle in that for the board). Just wondered if it would be a useless attempt or not since I'm not a huge electronics guy, and you are all way more knowledgeable then myself in this area.
Rcam1977 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 Those are sweeeeeet, if you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to build one of those yourself ?
IMEDICx90 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 Those are sweeeeeet, if you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to build one of those yourself ? My parts list totals about $100 dollars give or take $10 based on buttons and enclosure bought. The rest is pretty standard.
Proetus Posted March 21, 2014 Author Posted March 21, 2014 Hey pro and comp. just kicking around an idea, but I have a vtr laying around that I don't use since I can't use my atty's or drippers without the stupid extension, but could I theoretically just swap the boards with the 30 that I have and make it work? I would obviously have to use the screen from the DNA30 but I would put it in the existing display area(I.e. Cut a hole the same dimensions and put a cradle in that for the board). Just wondered if it would be a useless attempt or not since I'm not a huge electronics guy, and you are all way more knowledgeable then myself in this area. The problem with the VTR is the wheel/fire button all in one deal. The DNA board has the ability to use a potentiometer, so it's probably possible. You lose some functions of the board with a pot tho. Ability to lock wattage, flip screen and enter/exit stealth mode I believe. I also don't know how the inside of the VTR looks layout wise. I googled it and found your thread on nu vapor! There's also a thread on ecf but no info in it. Be an innovator, be first!Those are sweeeeeet, if you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to build one of those yourself ? My parts list totals about $100 dollars give or take $10 based on buttons and enclosure bought. The rest is pretty standard. Minus new tools, soldering iron, tips, tip cleaner, helping hands etc just parts I'm in for just under 100.
IMEDICx90 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 The problem with the VTR is the wheel/fire button all in one deal. The DNA board has the ability to use a potentiometer, so it's probably possible. You lose some functions of the board with a pot tho. Ability to lock wattage, flip screen and enter/exit stealth mode I believe. I also don't know how the inside of the VTR looks layout wise. I googled it and found your thread on nu vapor! There's also a thread on ecf but no info in it. Be an innovator, be first! Minus new tools, soldering iron, tips, tip cleaner, helping hands etc just parts I'm in for just under 100. Well the wheel and the fire button aren't all in one. The wheel and selector are all in one, but the fire button is a separate deal. I assume that's what you meant? Lol. And what do I lose out on by not being able to lock in the voltage? I mean it's gonna fire what I tell it too right? Until I change the demand via wattage settings?
Proetus Posted March 21, 2014 Author Posted March 21, 2014 Correct. But the 30 has a few different features that are accessible with different button pushed while the screen is locked. That is all. You aren't losing any actually functionality, just a few doodads.
Compenstine Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 Like Proetus I have not tore down an MVP. In theory it could work, but I think it would be more of a pain than it would be worth. I would say sell MPV and use the cash to buy what you want for your build. Even used you should be get at least $60-70 for it.
IMEDICx90 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 I want a vtr because I like the feel, just wanna see if I can do this really. If I can do it once, it will be easy to replicate. And I would essentially have all the stuff there, but then I would be able to basically get a crash course in the modding realm of dna's as a whole.
IMEDICx90 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 Correct. But the 30 has a few different features that are accessible with different button pushed while the screen is locked. That is all. You aren't losing any actually functionality, just a few doodads. Well that's good to know. I'm gonna try it, and if it's successful, I'll just grab a third board to use on my enclosures.
Compenstine Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 Proetus, I was just going trough your list and didn't see a link to where you picked up your buttons. Do you have a link for them? I'm looking for brass ones for my build.
Proetus Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 Mine came from odds n ends coop that ran same time as the DNA boards. Here's the link tactile Buttons. You can also check digikey. As far as fire buttons, search around. There really isn't any load on the fire switch, so any momentary on switch will suffice. I prefer the fire buttons with screw terminals rather then soldered posts. My latest fire button.
IMEDICx90 Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 Hey pro did you use braided or solid wire? I just wanna make sure I buy the right stuff, and do I have to have different colors? Or does it just make it easier to differentiate/follow?
Proetus Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 Got all my wire from hobbyking. The USA were house is out of stock on a few right now, I just ordered from intl warehouse this morning. 20awg for anything power related. Battery to board, board to atty and charger. 24awg for switches. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10938__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_24AWG_1mtr_Blue.html You can tie all the power together, battery, charge board then to board in. No need to use the charge in on the board as it traces out right to the power in. Colors are your choice, I just used the colors to help differentiate them.
Compenstine Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks for the link, I should have search Mouser first LOL I did see some nice oval ones there that will look nice on my project. Mounting them may be a little tricky though.
Joshuab3687 Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks for the link, I should have search Mouser first LOL I did see some nice oval ones there that will look nice on my project. Mounting them may be a little tricky though. Do it! Do it! Me likey! Compenstine 1
Proetus Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 Just have to watch the depth on the fire buttons, they can get large.
Proetus Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) I got this button floating around here too. Just not to sure i like it tho. Was only 1.50 in the coop so i said what the hell. It is dam near a flush mount button. Just have to drill holes for the wire leads and put heatshrink around em to protect em. Can see a bunch of odds n ends in there as well. Spring loaded center pins, fuses, tactile buttons and i believe thats one of the battery contacts on the left. Edited March 22, 2014 by Proetus
Compenstine Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 Yes,I'm going to search out some low profile ones I saw a few last night when I was looking.I'll post some links to what I found in my thread I don't want to hijack your build thread Not cheap though the one I just posted is $5.00 and change each LOL
Proetus Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 Yea i give up on the fire button, i like it i buy it they aren't cheap. My newest button. I bought unpainted enclosures this time. See what i can't come up with.
IMEDICx90 Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 Got all my wire from hobbyking. The USA were house is out of stock on a few right now, I just ordered from intl warehouse this morning. 20awg for anything power related. Battery to board, board to atty and charger. 24awg for switches. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10938__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_24AWG_1mtr_Blue.html You can tie all the power together, battery, charge board then to board in. No need to use the charge in on the board as it traces out right to the power in. Colors are your choice, I just used the colors to help differentiate them. What if I said I intend on making a "door" to swap out the batteries and not use a charge feature at all? Would that be a no no?
Proetus Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 That is fine as well. The only cons i can think of are ensure that you never ever put the batteries in backwards. Even then if you are properly protected by fuses, its not a problem you'll just blow the fuses.
Proetus Posted March 23, 2014 Author Posted March 23, 2014 Working on getting 3-4 more boards, those will be the mods that i make for others. Will take a few weeks im sure. In the meantime i will work up what parts i'll use and gather remaining parts that way all i have to do is put em together. I'm awaiting parts on what i think i want them to be like. Those should start streaming in over the next week. Look for the next build thread. I know a few people expressed interest privately, so i will contact them first as far as selling a mod.
irwink Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 Cool stuff. I'm starting to feel that tinkering itch... I need another mod like a hole in the head but wth.
iheartvape Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 I started compiling a list of items for a build of my own, but all I ended up doing was creating a headache and many, many questions. I think i have everything picked out minus fuses and switches for wattage. I will probably be picking your brain ALOT in about a week or 2... Lol
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