pkthunder Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 So, I've fallen in love with mechanical mods and RBAs (I like to tinker) but I seem to favor the mech mods with side fire buttons as opposed to the bottom fire mods. I'm currently using the telescoping Natural by SmokTech, and besides the KTS and GG, it's the only side fire mod I've seen (I started with the KTS but the button gets really hot and I won't be able to afford the GG for a while, if I ever do get it). I'm thinking of going to the Natural that is a flush piece and magnetic switch, but I'm wondering if there are any other options out there, or anything I can do to trick out the Natural I have (can I just upgrade it to a magnetic switch?). I have an RSST and an AGA-TD atomizers and the TD will definitely be sitting on top...at least after I replace the broken glass tank. So, any suggestions on medium to higher end side fire mechanical mods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vispera Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Electric angel is side fire and I think litecigusa. com has a clone called fallen angel or something like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkthunder Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 That Electric Angel looks slick! What about a side fire mech mod with a button that is a little more flush (one of the reasons why I like the Natural)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadianExotics Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) The Adam mod, iSeason, the MKB-TS (gg replica), and also a bunch of Sigelei mechs all have that side-fire "pinky button" switch going on. Unfortunately, flush buttons like the Natural aren't too prevalent amongst side-mount pinky buttons. Now, I didn't see if you have a KTS (china gg) already, but I do recommend getting one. The button, though not as flush as the Natural, has a short throw, and is comfortable enough to be to your liking. If absolute flush is key, there are plenty of top-fire "thumb button" mods available too...the Poldiac (which has a truly flush switch) and the Roller (switch still considered low-profile) are both great thumb botton mods. Edited January 14, 2014 by CascadianExotics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vispera Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 There is the bolt, poldiac 134 clone mech and the big and nasty there are a bunch of side button mods in all different flavors just have to look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proetus Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) So, I've fallen in love with mechanical mods and RBAs (I like to tinker) but I seem to favor the mech mods with side fire buttons as opposed to the bottom fire mods. I'm currently using the telescoping Natural by SmokTech, and besides the KTS and GG, it's the only side fire mod I've seen (I started with the KTS but the button gets really hot and I won't be able to afford the GG for a while, if I ever do get it). I'm thinking of going to the Natural that is a flush piece and magnetic switch, but I'm wondering if there are any other options out there, or anything I can do to trick out the Natural I have (can I just upgrade it to a magnetic switch?). I have an RSST and an AGA-TD atomizers and the TD will definitely be sitting on top...at least after I replace the broken glass tank. So, any suggestions on medium to higher end side fire mechanical mods? Time out! If your button is getting hot there is a problem with your mod! The button is getting hot because the resistance is to great in the switch. This can cause a runaway battery with catastrophic failure! If your switch is hot your battery is hot! I recommend you no longer use that battery as a safety measure! Take your switch apart, sand the plating off the contacts and check the spring. If you really want to make it shine, sand the top battery contact as well. You can get a hot spring here http://www.avidvaper.com/products/HeliX-hot-spring.html A hot spring is called that due to the fact it should collapse in the event of a short and break the electrical contact to prevent a serious overheat and/or battery IED. Vape safely! Gather as much information as you can before trying to use advanced devices! Edited January 14, 2014 by Proetus Aquatroy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMEDICx90 Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Time out! If your button is getting hot there is a problem with your mod! The button is getting hot because the resistance is to great in the switch. This can cause a runaway battery with catastrophic failure! If your switch is hot your battery is hot! I recommend you no longer use that battery as a safety measure! Take your switch apart, sand the plating off the contacts and check the spring. If you really want to make it shine, sand the top battery contact as well. You can get a hot spring here http://www.avidvaper.com/products/HeliX-hot-spring.html A hot spring is called that due to the fact it should collapse in the event of a short and break the electrical contact to prevent a serious overheat and/or battery IED. Vape safely! Gather as much information as you can before trying to use advanced devices! That's not necessarily true. If the contacts are dirty that would cause the button to heat up. For some reason the KTS seems to collect grime on the contacts quicker then any other mod I have ever used. So clean the contacts first, if it's still getting hot then it could be exactly as Proetus said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadianExotics Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Could also be a short in whatever atty he is using. The only time my KTS button heats up is when I had a short...usually due to this one particular genny that was nothing but trouble. Check atty, clean contacts, and if that doesn't work, replace the button. Hoosier Vapes sells them for a couple bucks. Edited January 15, 2014 by CascadianExotics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMEDICx90 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Could also be a short in whatever atty he is using. The only time my KTS button heats up is when I had a short...usually due to this one particular genny that was nothing but trouble.Check atty, clean contacts, and if that doesn't work, replace the button. Hoosier Vapes sells them for a couple bucks. You are correct. I never even thought of the atty being the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadianExotics Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Lol. Yeah, I've noticed when people hear the words "mod problem," user-error rarely ever factors in to the equation...but, I guess that eagerness just comes from being both a mod geek and a person driven to see others to succeed at the vape game. Which is the ultimate goal here, right? On topic: Out of all my mods, the vast majority are all side-firing pinky buttons. Despite being inherently flawed in design, I love the Steampunk aesthetic of that mod style. Great for using Gennys, too. Just memorize the button location in relation to the air hole, and you won't ever have to guess where it is when you get one of those 'wake-you-out-of-a-dead-sleep' midnight vape craves. Edited January 15, 2014 by CascadianExotics spydre 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iheartvape Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 FastTech has a few side fire mech mods... There is one, i think it is the PH22 that i personally want to get. its a thumb fired side button. I have the KTS and i have the same issue with the button getting hot, its because there is no insulator on them like most of the bottom fired mechs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadianExotics Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 If that were the case, and you were in fact sans a bottom insulator, your mod would fire every time you attached an atty. If you were missing a top cap insulator, you would hard-short your battery by merely making contact with the top cap. Photo showing the insulator on the KTS: Hot buttons are caused when the current is bottlenecked by the switch assembly. Similar to a guitar amp going to a speaker. If the speaker resistance is too great, the power backs up, and blows the amp at its weakest point (usually a tube or fuse). Conversely, having too little resistance will draw too much current and burn out the power supply. The fact of the matter is that KTS mods are not designed for sub-ohm setups, nor do they tolerate buildup on the contacts, or improperly set up attys. Your best bet is to go over the checklist I posted a few posts back, and deduce the problem there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iheartvape Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 If that were the case, and you were in fact sans a bottom insulator, your mod would fire every time you attached an atty. If you were missing a top cap insulator, you would hard-short your battery by merely making contact with the top cap. Photo showing the insulator on the KTS: Hot buttons are caused when the current is bottlenecked by the switch assembly. Similar to a guitar amp going to a speaker. If the speaker resistance is too great, the power backs up, and blows the amp at its weakest point (usually a tube or fuse). Conversely, having too little resistance will draw too much current and burn out the power supply. The fact of the matter is that KTS mods are not designed for sub-ohm setups, nor do they tolerate buildup on the contacts, or improperly set up attys. Your best bet is to go over the checklist I posted a few posts back, and deduce the problem there. I rarely even use my KTS anymore, i perfer my K100, actually. But this is good info though. It made me rethink how im building my coils on my tank for the KTS, to see if im doing something wrong. I keep the ohms on it at about 1.1 to 1.5, but i never thought to check the contacts on the springs and stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadianExotics Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) Both are good mods made by the same company. It's the design that makes the KTS prone to bottlenecking the current flow. I'm sure there are workarounds for that, but I've used a RSST with a 0.7 ohm build on the KTS with no issues. I've also used a 0.4 ohm dual-coil RDA setup with minimal heating issues. Always meter for shorts before using a build on anything, and keep your contacts clean. When in doubt, use a mod fuse or a Kick to regulate the setup. Or, don't use at all until you are sure. Good luck!!! Edited January 16, 2014 by CascadianExotics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBlack Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 A hot spring is called that due to the fact it should collapse in the event of a short and break the electrical contact to prevent a serious overheat and/or battery IED. You can get a hot spring here http://www.avidvaper...hot-spring.html The original SB Hot Spring was so named not for any melting abilities, nor does AltSmoke or Avid (same pic BTW) make any claims to special fuse like behavior. AltSmoke's Hot Spring was made to remedy the rather high voltage drop in their original SBs/Omegas and BBs. Once load testing became more common the high voltage drop became known. AltSmoke then offered a lower resistance spring for a hotter vape. It was a performance issue that was addressed with the new spring. http://altsmoke.com/sbhotspring.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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