IMEDICx90 Posted January 4, 2014 Posted January 4, 2014 As most of you probably already know there are a ton of option in the vaping world. There are little ego batteries all the way up to the e-huge mod that stacks 2 26650 batteries, and everything in between. There are also a ton of tanks, atomizers, rebuildables, cartomizers, and I'm sure there are more that I haven't mentioned and/or are being created! With that being said I see alot of questions regarding RBAs, or Rebuildable Atomizers. There is a huge variety and most are commonly mislabeled due to the loose use of this term. I'm going to try and show what the difference is between them and provide some images to help guide you in the right direction as well as the correct terminology for them. RBA- Genesis style rebuildable atomizer, has a tank and is most commonly build with SS mesh or SS rope like a Kraken or a Zenisis These are completely rebuildable top wicking systems. These have a tank that can range anywhere from 1.5ml to 7ml of capacity. Here are a few examples: The Kraken made by Vicious Ant is a new Genesis atty that is sweeping the market. With the standard dual coil deck and the AFC (airflow control/ airflow cap) its a totally new take on the genny! The Zenisis is an atty made by Zen and is definitely one of the best originals RDA- A dripping rebuildable atomizer, no tank and is usually built with a cotton wick, hemp wick, or ceramic like a Trident, Nimbus, Omega or patriot Notice on all of these they lack the tank like the RBA. They are meant for dripping and some use it to taste flavors, others Like myself choose this as a method of vaping all day due to the lack of juice build up that will cause the flavors to mute. Also these typically have multiple posts allowing for multiple coil builds. Trident Nimbus Omega Patriot RTA- Rebuildable tank atomizer, a rebuildable that is used in a tank such as the Diver or the Grail This type of rebuildable atty acts alot like the cartomizers in DCT's tanks. They can be used alone or with a tank. They feature a ceramic cup and use Resistance and Non Resistance wire. Diver Scuba Tank Diver in a Scuba Tank Grail BFRBA- Bottom Fed Rebuildable atomizer, a rebuildable that has a juice flow control and air control (typically) such as a Kayfun or an Ithaka These also use ceramic cups and R/NR wire. However there is an exception with the Kayfun where its more like an RDA with a tank on top of it. These feed much like a Kanger Protank or an Aspire BDC, and like wise use a chimney to feed the vapor to the vaper. The biggest advantage to the BFRBA is it usually comes with a juice control (the chimney turns to allow more/less juice to the wicks) and AFC. Ithaka Aqua Kayfun BFRDA- This is the last category of rebuildables. These are a more specifc type of RDA. They actually can be fed through the bottom 510 connection and are used on mods like the REO. The term squonking is the act of using a BFRDA and a REO (or another type of bottle feeding mod) and you actually squeeze a juice bottle that is stored inside the mod to feed the wick of the RDA. While you could use them on another type of mod, they are seriously handicapped due to the nature of the juice being able to escape the 510 connection and leak right into the battery connection. These would include The Chalice, RM2, Fatty V3, and many others. Here are a few examples: The Chalice Fatty V3 RM2 Hopefully this helps keep the terminology straight, and when you go to invest in one you can figure out which is right for what you want! Vape on guys and gals! -MEDIC out
IMEDICx90 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Posted January 4, 2014 thanks guys appreciate the compliments! I was just trying to help some people figure out the differences if they didnt know!
Bebop Posted January 4, 2014 Posted January 4, 2014 There it is! Got pinned before I could say.... Sweet! Thankyou sir!
spydre Posted January 5, 2014 Posted January 5, 2014 Woot! Got me a pin! Lol! I was going to say, this is definitely deserving of a sticky or pin (I know different boards use different terms). I have a couple questions. I mentioned before, I think about a week ago, we purchased a Helios clone RDA. Now that seems to hold enough juice to vape on for a while, are all RDAs like that? And, for example, I know with some drippers, leakage can be a problem - which is why the whole drip shield thing was invented. Does this happen with RDAs? And on RDAs, when do you need to rebuild them? I'll ask the same question about RBAs - do you rebuild them if you change the flavor in the tank? Also, I heard from someone's conversation with a shop owner on Friday that if you cotton as a wicking material rather than silica on RBA's, they feel it's superior, but you can't let it dry it out, because it will burn up, is that right?
IMEDICx90 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Posted January 5, 2014 I was going to say, this is definitely deserving of a sticky or pin (I know different boards use different terms). I have a couple questions. I mentioned before, I think about a week ago, we purchased a Helios clone RDA. Now that seems to hold enough juice to vape on for a while, are all RDAs like that? Well it shouldn't really hold any more juice then what the wick is capable of holding. Cotton, for example, typically is able to absorb more quickly and hold more then silica. So you would have a leakage problem if you over drip the RDA. And, for example, I know with some drippers, leakage can be a problem - which is why the whole drip shield thing was invented. Does this happen with RDAs? And on RDAs, when do you need to rebuild them? I'll ask the same question about RBAs - do you rebuild them if you change the flavor in the tank? Yes is happens when you put to much liquid in the dripper. You are overpowering the wicking capabilities and it can leak through the air holes. The beauty of rebuildables in General is you can change the build whenever you choose. The only time you HAVE to rebuild is when your wick goes bad which is common in cotton wicks (they scorch easily) or your coil pops. I have had the same coils in my trident for almost 4 months now. And still going strong. If you choose to change the flavor some people just switch juice... Some rebuild the wick..... Some do a complete tear down(wash, rebuild, rewick, reassemble, refill). Again it's personal preference Also, I heard from someone's conversation with a shop owner on Friday that if you cotton as a wicking material rather than silica on RBA's, they feel it's superior, but you can't let it dry it out, because it will burn up, is that right? Well if it dries up in an RDA or an RBA you will scorch it and burn it in half. So cotton gets changed pretty frequently since it's easy to get, easy to work with, and cheap as crap.
BirdDog Posted January 5, 2014 Posted January 5, 2014 Woot! Got me a pin! Lol! It was the best option next to a "like" button that I could think of. lol
vaporraper Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 Use hemp! Hemp really works that good,and are u saying for all builds??
vaporraper Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 Some sweet a$$ info in here,thanks IMEDICx90!!
spydre Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 Does hemp not have the drying out issue that cotton has? And do you still have to boil it first?
IMEDICx90 Posted January 6, 2014 Author Posted January 6, 2014 I don't even boil my cotton..... But yes it is less prone to be scorched.
Proetus Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 The hemp requires about 24hours of preparation. However I won't have to change the hemp for about 3 weeks.
spydre Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Okay, Medic, saw that you are working on a bottom feeder. Is that because you've never had one before and want to try it out, or is there some sort of advantage to them?
IMEDICx90 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Posted January 17, 2014 Ok I have a REO from reomods.com and it is a bottom feeder. Essentially you get to drip with the convenience of a tank. That seems a little backwards but hear me out. The juice is contained in a bottle that is on board the mod itself and held inside the casing. So you have a dripper on top that is a b/f and you have a juice bottle right below it. You get the joy of a dripper but without having to drip all the time, you just squeeze the bottle or "Squonk" and it refills the dripper just like you would if you had a tube mod with a dripper, only no messing with the caps and lids and such while your driving or your hands are occupied, that make anymore sense?
spydre Posted January 17, 2014 Posted January 17, 2014 Yeah....but, so, you have to keep the mod open, or is it backless?
IMEDICx90 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Posted January 17, 2014 That's the inside. That is with the cover on. See the little rectangle-ish hole? That is where the bottle rests. Then you just put your finger inside it and squeeze the bottle. That feeds the dripper. So no you take the door off to refill the bottle or to change the battery. But you don't leave it off.
spydre Posted January 17, 2014 Posted January 17, 2014 Very cool. I'm just REALLY curious about this. How do you know how much to squeeze? I mean, do you look inside the RDA while you are squeezing?
IMEDICx90 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Posted January 17, 2014 No with the atty I have on it, you can't over drip/squeeze because it will just flow back down into the bottle.
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