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Resistance/power or voltage combination


spydre

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I know this is going to be a weird topic, and if it's in the wrong sub-forum, admins, you can move it, or you can message me and have me repost it in the correct forum if you don't have that capability.

I have a full fledged Ohm's law calculator - you enter the voltage or power, and the resistance, it will fill in the third field, plus current.

Is there any way to take that knowledge, and calculate the TEMPERATURE it should be producing?

I want to start mail ordering my coils. I've gotten all my coils here locally the last two months, and even with 1.8 ohm coils, I can't bump the power or the voltage up above eGo levels, essentially, without burning the liquid. Juice that I used to be able to vape at 9 - 10 watts is burning, for a couple months. On my eGos when they are freshly charged and outputting at 4.2 volts, on my new Smoketech Winder, on my MVP, even on hubby's Provari, so I know it's not device related. The only variable in the tank is coil, so I'm left wondering if it's the coils I'm getting in the area, even the ones packaged as genuine Kanger coils. I can update this in a few minutes after I figure out exactly what setting I can get my 618 juice up to, but another reason I believe it has to be the coils is because my dripping attys I can power up pretty good as well, the ones that Tam recommends (but not the custom one, the disposable ones - Boge LR, which is 2 ohms, + or - the standard possible deviation. Well, I've tried two different stores, two different suppliers, haven't tried the other two stores, and haven't set foot in the new store we just heard about two days ago. But I can feel the tank getting hot. I can vape the LR coils at 3.7, if I don't take long hits, and I don't vape it at that voltage for very long.

So my only thought is the coils. Well, okay, I have yet to ask hubby to take the multimeter to the coil to see if what I'm reading as the resistance is truly the resistance, but I don't believe my MVP readings to be off.... actually, I don't know what could be causing it, but even hubby considers it strange, and has his cartos around 2.2 and vapes 618 at a higher voltage than I've been able to manage lately.

And it's not just my taste - hubby's noticed the taste, too, and with one tank, smelled the burning before I got it turned down.

If you all think I'm nuts, just say so. Not looking for problems, just miss my high power/high voltage. My 618 doesn't taste the same at 3.7 volts, no matter what the resistance of the coils.

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Okay, it appears that quite possibly, I was wrong about these new packs of coils. I've pushed my 618 and RY4 to their limits in the past two hours, and gotten very good power, and thus voltage, out of them. I'll double check my 555 when I get up, but it's quite possible that their particular blend wants a lower temperature, and I'll change the coil on my honey wood and check that, too. I'll update then, and you may be able to write this whole post off.

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Actually, I think I've found in the last 24 hours that MOST of the issues may have been caused by chain vaping, and the liquid in the tank getting super-heated. Not dry hits, but hitting frequently enough that, at least on say, the evods, you could touch the tank and FEEL the heat, and that's when I got all panicky. And when I tested my SO's Provari, I'd done the same thing, so by the time I had him taste it (either on my device or on the Provari), the juice was still super-heated and prone to tasting burned.

One juice that is ESPECIALLY prone to this, though, is my new 555 blend, ESPECIALLY if I vape until close to the 10 second cut off, and/or take hits too close together - which I would tend to do in the car, about the frequency of hits (simulating rolling down the window for an analog, so taking a few hits, then rolling with window back up). ALMOST everything I've tried I've been able to get at around 7 1/2 watts, which was where I was vaping before as well, with a couple juices I can go higher.

Too bad I can't still edit the first post, or better yet, edit the title to say NEVERMIND, PROBLEM SOLVED!

Edited by spydre
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Well, actually, with some of them the culprit was not only OLD coils that hadn't been changed out in a time (and some of them still haven't been changed out) or the crap coils that I previously had. Not to mention tanks that were using recycled coils.

For the most part, me recycling coils isn't a good idea, unless for some reason I'm changing the tank out after a very, very short time. Usually, I have the contents in a tank long enough blow through multiple coils, so if I change a tank out, under normal circumstances, the coil's been put through it's paces. Now, the iClear that came with MVP, I filled it out of desperation because I was having trouble with the kanger knock off coils that I had that night, so I put my RY4 in that tank temporarily, until I could get my regular RY4 tank functioning well the next day (because I was REALLY wanting some RY4 right about then). So I rinsed that out and let the wicks air dry, and the coils from my sample tanks weren't used that much - not quite 10 ml much per tank, so I rinsed those out and are letting them air dry.

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I thought a dry burn was a must to clear all the crud of the coil ? Its all very well having clean wicks but I find unless I dry burn as well it tastes awful for a while until the new flavour comes through.

Vodka does the trick, and for me, as long as I'm rinsing in hot water, I don't really require the dry burn anyway. I've only used a dry burn to speed dry a wick, and haven't done that in ages.

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Do you still dry burn the coils after letting them air dry ?

I used to repeatedly clean and re-use kpt coils. I always dry burned before using as there was always buildup on the coil windings that remained after cleaning with an ultrasonic cleaner using vodka and then rinsing in hot water.

Now the coils are so cheap I just swap out with a brand new one.

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I thought a dry burn was a must to clear all the crud of the coil ? Its all very well having clean wicks but I find unless I dry burn as well it tastes awful for a while until the new flavour comes through.

IMO dry burning is a must. The proof is poor taste/performance if you don't.

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Yeah. Regular soaking, cleaning, etc does not clean the actual coil itself. Only dry burn gets the built up crud off the coil.

If you're not dry burning, spy, then you're missing out on a big part of restoring old coils. Nearly makes them new again

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IMO dry burning is a must. The proof is poor taste/performance if you don't.

Yeah. Regular soaking, cleaning, etc does not clean the actual coil itself. Only dry burn gets the built up crud off the coil.

If you're not dry burning, spy, then you're missing out on a big part of restoring old coils. Nearly makes them new again

Gents, do you dry burn prior to soaking? or after??

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I was thinking to loosen the corrosion prior to soaking...but I just soak at this point, and almost ready to just pitch em, can't keep track the ones I have reused vs only once...

Neither can I, Troy - which is another reason I've had such bad luck with recycled coils lately, me thinks.

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I only wash and dry burn once then bin them they're cheap enough to just replace.

So wash, soak, rinse, dry, and then burn?

I just can't keep em all straight Dannyk, with more than a dozen tanks, can't remember what coils are new, and what are reused!!

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Okay, yes, I'm considering the source here, but I have been told that dry burning can actually shorten the life of the coil - or at least the wick. Is that not correct?

It will shorten the life or even pop it if you dry burn at too high a voltage. I always did dry burns with a standard non-twist eGo. They dip to 3.2 volts when you fire a coil. I would dry burn a couple seconds at a time until the coil windings glowed a clean red.

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Soak overnight then rinse then dry overnight on a radiator then dry burn and use.

I tend to use new ones and after I get around 5 or 6 I'll go through them again and then back on to new ones.

I've only got 2 Davide tanks so I don't go through them that often.

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