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Kanger Pro Tank 2 Leaks on Voltage Mode, Flawless on Wattage Mode


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I had a kanger pro tank 2 i was using and noticed it would gurgle and the juice was dissapearing out of the tank, I found it to be leaking, completely disassembled, tightened cores, checked seals, reassembled, and sure enough after sitting a few minutes the juice level was lower and vaping was gurgled and spitting. I went back to the shop after taking apart, wasting juice and time 4-5 times. It would do this everytime after vaping and sitting (i know the kanger tanks may apear to lose fill on initial filling, but it kept dropping each time i picked it up, and not because i was vaping alot.

They said to try on wattage mode (I was using a iTazteVV) - I dont know why it would make a difference, but leaking stops. vaping density is more consistent throughout the draw instead of spitty and "static-y" in voltage mode..

Has anyone else experienced this or is this just me?

and is there a reason/explanation for why this might happen?

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Watts heats up the juice at a different temp than volts.. If they were both the same, why do we have the option to either use volts or watts? Watts is a slower cooker than volts vaping wise..

So what does this have to do with the leaking?

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So what does this have to do with the leaking?

Very simple do you know why leaking occurs in the first place? Cranking your watts up instead of volts will heat and increase wicking production slower but keep up enough so your leaking is not an issue.. Could leaking still be an issue ? Yes but adjusting your watts higher may work .. Try it out yourself..

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Very simple do you know why leaking occurs in the first place? Cranking your watts up instead of volts will heat and increase wicking production slower but keep up enough so your leaking is not an issue.. Could leaking still be an issue ? Yes but adjusting your watts higher may work .. Try it out yourself..

Wow maybe why I'm vaping at 9.5 watts and this 30s still leaks.......wrong......

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Not true at all

All watts do is it adjusts the voltage to keep the power level the same based on the current resistance of your coil.

Have you tried REPLACING the coil? I had a tank that had an issue of leaking about when I got it down to 1/2 a tank. After a couple of days of this, and having to clean the MVP head with alcohol each time, even though I cleaned it up immediately after it started (it would flood, so I would get juice in my mouth, so I knew almost immediately), I figured I would try replacing the coil. Like magic, it stopped. I still have occasional spitting juice with that tank, but no more leaking.

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All I know if that even now, (one the second coil that came with the tank now) wattage mode, smooth constant vape, there are micro/nano spits (but this is characteristic of kangers from what i found.

What i was referring to earlier was leaking in the middle tube no matter how tight core was put on and spitting was large noticeable drops.

IT still happens in voltage mode and not in wattage mode, havent tried turning watttage mode up to see if it gives me the same problem of voltage if i turn up the watts. Will report back when i get back home.

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If you run a qtip through at each fill and blow out the coil before each fill you will never have a problem with leaking as long as the coil is good. As you vape, condensation builds in the drip tip and runs down the center post and if you do not blow it out and clean it at each refill it can gurgle. I have 6 KPT2s in rotation now and haven't had a gurgle in months that wasn't fixable by simply turning the tank upside down, blowing out onto a paper towel, run a q-tip through the center post, and turn back upright and take a draw to see if it is still gurgling. If so, repeat blowing out but remember to hold the tank upside down or you will blow liquid through the coil and out the bottom. If it still leaks replace the coil.

I feel for you if you have a leaky tank, but chasing the solution by switching from V to W makes as much sense as trying to hunt rabbits by looking for them up in trees.

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If you run a qtip through at each fill and blow out the coil before each fill you will never have a problem with leaking as long as the coil is good. As you vape, condensation builds in the drip tip and runs down the center post and if you do not blow it out and clean it at each refill it can gurgle. I have 6 KPT2s in rotation now and haven't had a gurgle in months that wasn't fixable by simply turning the tank upside down, blowing out onto a paper towel, run a q-tip through the center post, and turn back upright and take a draw to see if it is still gurgling. If so, repeat blowing out but remember to hold the tank upside down or you will blow liquid through the coil and out the bottom. If it still leaks replace the coil.

I feel for you if you have a leaky tank, but chasing the solution by switching from V to W makes as much sense as trying to hunt rabbits by looking for them up in trees.

So this is exactly what i was told in store, left to go home, re-filled tank after dissembling and giving full wash and dry. Fill tank, close, vape 3-4 rips, put it down for 2-3 mins, pick it back up. about 15-25% of the juice dissappears. (goes into middle tube and elsewhere)

Its definitely not a lack of cleaning out the middle between each fill, i aso tried doing it between each 3-4 vapes. still didnt help.

The only real difference was changing from voltage to wattage, because even after i changed to the new core/coil it was leaking and this time i started in wattage. I go to voltage and same problem, not as bad as before but definitely.

So i dont know if my particular tank was defective and showed the differences in performance between wattage and voltage more definitively. OR there really is something to volts vs watts that we are overlooking, but one thing is for sure, this was confirmed to be weird by 3 other vape shop employees/workers when trying to work through the problem themselves. all noticed "juice just seemed to disappear"

and although i was with you in that changing the mod possibly couldnt make the difference, i am out of options, I invite anyone that can figure it out to do so. but i do know changing from volts to watts DOES make a difference in performance, they are not two versions of the same "power producing source" they produce power in two very different ways.

http://electronicdesign.com/energy/what-s-difference-between-watts-and-volt-amperes

Edited by bluesurfboy
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We had this discussion the other day on another thread.

Watts are controlled by the voltage and the resistance of the coil.

So even if you crank up the watts on your machine it will increase or decrease the voltage to the coil.

If its leaking into the center tube the chances are the rubber seal is missing.

Or you have a tank that likes to full all the time.

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OH I just read you are using the coils that came with the tank. I learned to throw those out or put them to the side for a rainy day. For some reason, they are always garbage.

Forget the W vs V, the blowing out and cleaning, and pop in a genuine Kanger coil that didn't come with the tank and see what happens. I bet anything, even a killer rabbit, that it will solve your problems.

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OH I just read you are using the coils that came with the tank. I learned to throw those out or put them to the side for a rainy day. For some reason, they are always garbage.

Forget the W vs V, the blowing out and cleaning, and pop in a genuine Kanger coil that didn't come with the tank and see what happens. I bet anything, even a killer rabbit, that it will solve your problems.

Are the two coils that come with the GEnuine kanger pro tank 2 not genuine? I heard they come with two genuine coils at two different resistances. I doubt getting another coil would change, but if others have found the coils that come with the genuine to be a fake or otherwise less effective than the separately sold replacement coil, please do let me know.

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