Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter MOD

[Compenstine]

This was brought up in another thread, moding out a multimeter for testing atomizers. I had bought a Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter just for building coils and testing other E-cig needs. I promised a tutorial of what I did when I was done, well, here it is.

I started with a stock Radio Shack Model: 22-182 Multimeter

This Multimeter comes in its own case and is mounted with 2 screws into the case for changing the battery. I wanted to use the case it came in as it was very compact and is easy to store.

After some thought I decided to make a panel that would fit into where the test leads were stored. This would allow me to close the case lid and keep it all in one neat package. I found an old 5.25 black bay cover for a PC to make the panel. I used connectors I salvaged from dead 510 and 901 batteries and atomizes also some used wire from a old PC LED.

I wanted a tight fit for the panel so I made a template of the test lead storage plate from a piece of semi ridged clear plastic. Laying the plastic over the multimeter I traced out the shape I needed for my panel with a Sharpie. After cutting the template out, I traced it onto the 5.25 bay cover. I placed the template in the upper right corner of the bay cover. This would allow the downed edge to act as a stop and a support for the panel once in place. Using a Dremel I cut out the basic shape, leaving room to adjust it's shape to fit tight in the test lead storage area of the Multimeter. I used the Dremel with a sanding cylinder to shape it for clean fit. I used a 5/16th in drill bit to make the holes where the new leads would be mounted. This bit was a tad smaller than the atty and batt but, I wanted a tight fit. The 3/8ths bit was just a hair to large. I then took my Dremel and a small sanding cylinder to make the holes just the right size for them to fit nice an snug.

Note the holes are a little off I made a line to follow but the center punch moved a bit on the second hole from the top. Ooops lol

After that was all done and ready to go, I soldered the all the leads together. I did this before installing them into the panel so I wouldn't risk melting the plastic panel. Once soldered and mounted them into the panel. I did a test on all the new leads to make sure all had a good connection and they all worked. I did this by taking a base reading on 1 atty. Then using it with an adapter to test both the 510 and 901 atty leads. I then used 1 batt and did the same with the 510 and 901 batt leads. After it all tested a go, I then used 5min epoxy to glue the leads in place. I also added some to the wires so they would move and possibly break the solder joint. I want to be able to remove the panel when I want so the wires had to be secured. Once the epoxy had set, I retested the leads just to make sure all the leads were still working.

It was at this time that I cut the original leads from the multimeter making sure I left a little extra in case of a redo. I then soldered them to the leads of the panel. To protect the connection I used some shrink tubing on these connections.

Now it is time to pop in the panel and test it again.

It all tested good so there it is, a custom 510, 901 Atty and Batt tester. The space at the top allows me to add 4-5 adapters for testing other size attys, Batts or extending the lead up to test tanks that are to big around to fit directly on the 510 lead.

I Love DIY!

[rcoe]

Very nice!

[3Rutez]

Yes! Alright man, that is awesome!

[Rixter]

Good job. Glad to see a little MacGyver ingenuity in the vaping world.

[Bebop]

Thanks for paving the way, compenstine! Nice job!

[Compenstine]

Thanks everyone. I had fun doing it. gave my gray matter a good workout. LOL

[Aquatroy]

Wish I had skills like that, and not as lazy..good job!

[Compenstine]

Thanks, I do have to give some credit to my Dad, rest his soul. When he was with us he taught me a lot about electronics and being a McGyver. LOL It was his nick name where he worked. He was an electroics enginer all his life. Has one pattend to his credit.

[WillBlack]

Pretty cool. But does it properly 'ZERO' when testing ohms (mine doesn't)? You got a lot of wire there.

Here's Rocketman's approach using a $3 Harbor Freight meter.

The connectors are tapped right into the PCB, he can still plug in the leads.

Here he is also using it measure voltage of a Twist.

[Compenstine]

To answer your question, yes it does for each connection. That was part of my testing so if it didn't, I could subtract the difference. This will also check voltage to any battery. I could have keep the leads as well by just soldiering the panel of connectors directly to the meters board, The leads also do not plug into this unit, I just didn't want them. This is just for E-cig Ohm and Volt testing. If I need more advanced readings for anything I have a nice Fluke Multimeter and a Leader DMM Scope for that.

[iheartvape]

very nice! how much was the ohm reader at radio shack?

[Compenstine]

Thanks ihartvape, It was $24.99 Link There are less expensive meters, but, when you live in the sticks surrounded by small towns you take what you can get. Would have cost me over $150 in gas to get to the nearest Harbor Freight. LOL

[iheartvape]

I found one on Amazon for like $6, but not sure if I want to buy it if it doesn't zero out, that way I'm not trying to do any math... lol

[Compenstine]

Yeah you take a chance when you buy stuff like this over the internet. The cheap ones are just that cheap.Take a roll of the dice and hope you get a good one. How many function? Less funtions lower price. You can get the less expensive ones at any Auto parts store and you test it to zero before you walk out the door.

[iheartvape]

I didn't think of going to the Auto parts store. we also have a freight harbor or what ever it's called in Tacoma somewhere.

[Mrwaylon]

I didn't think of going to the Auto parts store. we also have a freight harbor or what ever it's called in Tacoma somewhere.

Harbor freight . Spend the extra bucks and get a good one the ones from harbor freight sucks.