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I'm still very new to my mechanical mod. I have bought both a kick and a hologram safety fuse. I have played with the kick a bit and ALWAYS use the safety fuse. I find the kick difficult to use though as the adjustable screw is so tiny and hard to see without some serious bifocals (and my eyesight is 20/20. I'm not sure if the kick is worth the hassle to get it dialed in as I must take it out of the mod completely to get it dialed in.

My question is this. If I opt out of using the kick what ohm rating on a KPT 2 and viva nova's is safe to use or not safe to use? I normally vary between 1.8 - 3.0 ohm cartomizers. Does it matter any? I'm not using sub ohm rebuilds yet.

Thanks for your input as it would greatly put my mind at ease. I hope my question makes sense.

DG

*edit- I'm vaping with an Electric Angel clone and reviews have said it has very little voltage drop.

Edited by dragongunner
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The KICK is kind of a fuse. You don't need another fuse with the Kick in place.

The regular Kick only goes up to something like 12 watts. Most avg vapers are happy at 10 watts. Just take it all the way up and then back down one notch. If it's too high for you, then back it down another notch. rinse repeat as necessary.

You'll enjoy a nice steady vape at that wattage.. until the last 2-ish puffs. That's what makes the Kick worth the while.

There's now an even higher DNA Kick out there by eVovle. Dance the happy jig. The DNA 20. If you got the 20, just take it all the way up, then back down to half. :) (then notch it one way or the other).

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Thanks Uma, but do you know if its safe to vape without the kick using standard cartomizers in the 1.8-3.0 ohm range?

*edit* or will it burn them without the wattage regulation?

Edited by dragongunner
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Cool many thanks IMEDIC.

I've been doing tons of reading on the topic and have learned a lot. I've installed an app on my galaxy note 2 called ohms law calculator to assist me with understanding more about voltage, resistance and power. Its pretty cool and helps out as math was never my strong suit. All I have to do is input the information and it computes exactly the voltage or power based on the numbers input.

A quick question though, when I am using the power (vw) calculator the first set of numbers its asks to be input is voltage. This is just the voltage of the battery correct? The second number to be input is the resistance and of course I know this is the ohm resistance of my cartomizer. When I input these two numbers it automatically gives me the power that I can vape at in watts. The thing that confuses me is the voltage number it asks for. I have an aw imr 18650. When it is fully charged it reads about 4.2 volts. Is this the voltage number the calculator is asking for?

I feel that I'm so close to grasping this whole ohms law, but it really does confuse me sometimes. I apologize for asking so much and really appreciate everyones assistance.

*edit* Or is the voltage input that the calculator is asking for the voltage that I like to vape at? So if this is right and let's say my sweet spot that I like to vape at is 4.2 volts then its 4.2 squared divided by resistance (ohms) which will equal 9.28 watts). Am I doing this right?

Edited by dragongunner
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Yes, you can use the fuse and not the Kick. The fuse is just a safety guard in case your battery overheats or something. That usually happens when your battery tries to pull too many amps.. most mods are 2.5 to 3.5 amp range.. being aware of your battery, atty resistance and the amp of your mod helps to avoid any shorts. But, then there are always those hard shorts, where your atty shorts out due to a weirded out wire and POP, there goes your spring or your FUSE. It never hurts to have a fuse.

(speaking of which, the Roller people, Atmizoo.com has invented a new fuse called the BUG. I don't know which mods it will work in, you'd have to read the page, but it's a good one! I have it in my Roller).

The OHMS Law calculators are great aren't they! They're especially helpful in letting us know whether or not our mods are capable of handling such a low resistance and the such. (the vendor/modder usually states what the mod will handle).

I think you're doing the last math question correctly, but my mind panic's when it comes to math, and I really don't have a proper clue. Hang in there and some math whiz will help ya (and me lol) out shortly.

Edited by Uma
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"A quick question though, when I am using the power (vw) calculator the first set of numbers its asks to be input is voltage. This is just the voltage of the battery correct?"

Cool many thanks IMEDIC.

A quick question though, when I am using the power (vw) calculator the first set of numbers its asks to be input is voltage. This is just the voltage of the battery correct? The second number to be input is the resistance and of course I know this is the ohm resistance of my cartomizer. When I input these two numbers it automatically gives me the power that I can vape at in watts. The thing that confuses me is the voltage number it asks for. I have an aw imr 18650. When it is fully charged it reads about 4.2 volts. Is this the voltage number the calculator is asking for?

*edit* Or is the voltage input that the calculator is asking for the voltage that I like to vape at? So if this is right and let's say my sweet spot that I like to vape at is 4.2 volts then its 4.2 squared divided by resistance (ohms) which will equal 9.28 watts). Am I doing this right?

"This is just the voltage of the battery correct? "

If your are determining/measuring the voltage while under load.

" I have an aw imr 18650. When it is fully charged it reads about 4.2 volts. Is this the voltage number the calculator is asking for?"

No. Watts is current/energy consumed.

Here is a fully charged, 4.2V, AW18650 Li-ion firing a Joye 2.1Ω 510.

Joye2.1_AW_1865.jpg

Now you can figure the watts you will be vaping at using 3.85V in your calculator. Basically there is a ~16% difference, quite significant and noticeable.

Also note that anything between the battery and the atty will suck current (added resistance). That silly, way overpriced fuse you mentioned would probably drop that 3.85V you see down to about ~3.6V.

If you were looking for just a general sense of what the watts may be, using a Li-Ion's nominal voltage (3.7V) would be better.

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Thanks very much for the info Uma. I'm gonna check out the 'Bug' also. Experimenting with new mods is fun but I love being safe first. Knowledge is power.

You're welcome.

The Bug is a new resettable fuse that also acts as a spring. It is designed with the Roller mechanical telescopic mod in mind, but should fit most telescoping mods. They might come out with designs for the other mechanical mods out there in the future. I shouldn't have brought it up if you don't have a telescopic mod. (It's designed especially for low ohm users too). Worth keeping in mind tho,

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