18MGFog Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 EVOD came with 2.4 ohm. Vapor was thin, because my standard 1100-mah KGO wouldn't light it very well. Got wire with 16.151 ohm per ft, works out to about .0529888 ohm per mm. Bent out a paper clip, to steady my wick and to act as a handle. Laid 4 strips of 1 mm wick. Wrapped with 4 turns of wire. Put the leads through, with the paper clip still in the wick, so I could pull the wire straight without deforming the wick. Assembled the rubber bushing, inserted the pin, removed the paper clip, and placed the cap-pin over the wick, then the rubber cap to complete.. Trimmed the wick and tested. Major increase in vapor production. I don't have an ohm-meter, but don't care what the reading is, because this works so well that i will use the same method every time I build a wick. I don't think this was a fluke, because it is the second time I have done this. The first was with a T3, with the same result. Vape Happy. Your friend, 18 Milligram Fog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMEDICx90 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 i would recommend you dont wrap around the paperclip unless your going to add wick to it. your creating space that needs to be filled and will eventually fill with liquid. also it will scorch your wick faster requiring a rewick within a matter of days.s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rixter Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) i would recommend you dont wrap around the paperclip unless your going to add wick to it. your creating space that needs to be filled and will eventually fill with liquid. also it will scorch your wick faster requiring a rewick within a matter of days.s If you're wrapping the coil tightly, the wick will expand to fill the space when you slide the paperclip out...I use a sewing needle myself. I found trying to wrap around unsupported silica wick to be a major P.I.T.A. Edited August 10, 2013 by Rixter tzymroz2013 and WillBlack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
18MGFog Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Hey, I never replied to a topic before. I like the way it is arranged, with the latest post immediately beneath the reply box. Very convenient. Anyway, I have tried a sewing needle also, and a hat pin, too. Works fine, but does not have a handle. The paper clip is about the same guage as the pin. Bent out at 90 degrees, i have a pin with a handle. By leaving the pin in while I fix the leads, I can tug on the leads. This straightens them, and also draws the coil a little tighter around the wick. Taking the pin out after fixing the leads, the wick can fluff out and take up the excess space. My T3 has been in service more than a week, with consistently good vape and no scorching. The EVOD, a few days. No matter what atomizer i use, and whether it is out of the box or rebuilt, I get gurgling when the tank is down to about half. I think this is probably universal. I suspect it is because fluid will not compress or expand, but air will. When the tank is full, taking a hit will not expand the contents of the tank, and only the wick will bring in more fluid. But when there is a volume of air in the tank, taking a hit introduces a vacuum around the wick, causing the air in the tank to expand and forcing a little bit of juice into the wick-chamber. The only way to beat this, so I believe, is to refill as soon as I hear a gurgle. Vape Happy. Your friend, 18 Milligram Fog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMEDICx90 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 hmm. i never thought about it fluffing... especially cotton. I will have to give this a try for my protank rebuilds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
18MGFog Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 hmmm ... cotton. I have seen reference to cotton wicking, but did't notice at the time. Easier to coil, stronger, not as subject to breakage as glass fiber. No good for a top-coil tank, a dry hit would probably burn it. Very absorbant. But does it stand up to the heat, and last as long in a bottom-coil tank, as silica? Also, does it require a special brand, type, or manufacturing megthod? Or am i good with a ball of twine from Ace Hardware? VH, F, 18MGFog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMEDICx90 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 nah i use it in top coil and bottom coil and no you can use the cotton embroidery floss from hobby lobby or walmart. just make sure its white because you dont want the colored dye coming off in your juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBlack Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 I agree with Rixter. Cisco of Avid vaper knows a bit about coils. http://www.avidvaper.com/rebuildable-atomizer-coils-with-non-resistance-leads/ Here's a pic of one of his pre-rolls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aufin Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Gentlemen, not being negative, just curious.........what's the big deal about rebuilding EVOD coils when they can be bought (in quantity) in your choice of resistance from a manufacturer for $.70+-, and toss the old one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBlack Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 .....what's the big deal about rebuilding EVOD coils when they can be bought (in quantity) in your choice of resistance from a manufacturer for $.70+-, and toss the old one? If you don't mind assembling, here it's even less @ 24¢ http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004596/1432701-replacement-heating-coils-for-rebuildable But are all these things the same? Many places where I live sell pizza, do I strictly buy based on price? Hell no!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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