Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ha! I have some good news for you CE. You don't have to tear it down to change your juice. :)

Using your syringe, suck out the juice. (helps to have an empty bottle on hand, but if there's not much juice left, just dispose it).

Fill the syringe with distilled/filtered water and shoot it in there. Slurp it out, repeat.

I like to next shoot it with Vodka/Everclear. The Vodka dries fast.

Slurp it alllllllll out.

Dry your wick. (the excess liquid will burn off your wick, cleaning your wick. Your wick slurped it as you filled your tank with each cleansing).

Refill with new juice.

Your good to go.

Some folks like to take the wick out and give the coils a good cleaning too. If you wrapped your coils just right, your wick is easy to remove and replace because the coils are not too tight. (tight coils will slow the wicking too and sometimes short when they dig in which causes metallic flavor). If they're too tight, you will have to rebuild, but after lots of practice it becomes faster and easier to do. (minus the bad hair days). One two three and a hooey! :D

You can remove your wick and rinse it directly under the faucet, roll dry on paper towel, reTorch and then reinsert after you burn & blow the crud off your coils.

I think PBusardo does the Syringe method in one of his AHA! videos. (DID)

Posted

Thanks again, Uma!!!! Did anyone yet tell you that you're the life-saving goddess of the RBA section??? :p Now, off to go find a syringe locally as my needle-tip bottle doesn't reach all the way to the bottom of the tank....

Posted

lol no problem! Glad to help!!

Be sure to pick up a Blunt End/edge/point type of syringe. If you can't find one, you can blunt it yourself with sandpaper.

To be honest, most juices just take right over. I always just add new juice. Sometimes I have to hit the button for a vapor cleaning, but usually it just settles in and I'm none the wiser. Just make sure the tank is empty, of course, before refilling.

Until you have the syringe, you can just vape til it's gone, then hold it upside down and press the button until the excess vapor from the wick itself stops. (burn all the excess out of the wick). REfill with new juice, and you're good to go. :) (or, remove the wick, wash, dry, reinsert, rePrime, good to go)

Posted (edited)

Leaving the wick and coil installed, I use a blunt tipped syringe to flush my RSSTs tank three times with hot water and once with Everclear, and then let it air dry for half an hour. I pulse dry fire the coil until all the residual juice is gone from the wick and the coil glows. The dry firing turns the black crud on the Kanthal to white ash, which I then lightly flake off with the point of a pocket knife...it falls off very easily, leaving a shiny coil exposed.

Edited by Rixter
Posted

Many thanks, guys!!!

Ok....so, I got one more question. I know this sounds totally stupid. And, its probably one of those blatantly obvious "common sense" things that I'm known for just "not getting" even though I know better, and the answer is staring me in the face. :lol:

But.....um.....how often do you guys clean out the condensation on the top deck, and cap?? Also, how often do you clean your tank and wick???

(See....told you stuff like that tends to escape me, LOL!!!)

Posted (edited)
...how often do you guys clean out the condensation on the top deck, and cap?? Also, how often do you clean your tank and wick???

I sometimes use tissue to blot up the excess liquid on the deck when I get ready to refill, and I flush and clean the tank, wick, & coil whenever the leftover juice in the tank or wick starts to discolor the fresh juice I fill it with.

Edited by Rixter
Posted

Thanks again!!! My liquid was getting pretty discoloured. So, I took the unit apart and cleaned everything. The wick took to the new flavor well, and setting up a new coil only took 2 minutes at most due to the existing wick already being pre-oxidized at the top.

The coil metered at .8 ohm and looks prettier than the last!!! :yes:

Posted

Getting there, Uma!!! :lol:

Wish I could say that I were completely confident and comfortable with Gennys, but I know that I've a long road ahead of me.

At least I have the cumulative knowledge of people like you and Rix to learn from and make that road much more smooth going....for which I'm eternally grateful!!!!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I really wanted to like the RSST. It just looks so cool, and it even performs well, but it leaks from the 510 connection, which makes it my least favorite RBA at the moment.

I've figured out that due to the spring hot lead capture design, juice is going right down the center shaft and straight out the bottom, which is unacceptable. I'm going to try changing out the top deck seal with one from an AGA-T2, and then replacing the spring setup with the nuts from the AGA-T2 and hopefully, that will stop the leaking.

I'll post the results as soon as I have time to do the surgery.

Posted

Let us know how that works for you, Rix!!! The RSST is a good atty, but does need some help here and there. I've already tried two or three fixes for the leaking issue. If the AGA-T insert fixes the problem, then I'll buy those things in bulk!!!

Posted (edited)

Well, it appears that the silicon seal from an AGA-T2 is a perfect replacement for the hard white plastic one in the RSST's top deck...and it stops the leaking. The positive post fits snugly through the AGA-T2 seal and prevents liquid from going through, unlike the stock RSST seal, which isn't really a seal at all, but more of an insulator only.

I went one step further and took the top washer (more of a cup, actually) from the top of a ViVi Nova head and put it under the spring so the spring's bottom coil wouldn't cut into the silicon seal. A small SS washer would've probably been better, but it's all I had on hand.

gallery_15088_188_39469.jpg

No more leaks...yet.

Edited by Rixter
Posted

Good work, Rix!!! Though, wouldn't the ss washer create a short due to it coming in contact with both the positive post via the spring, and the negative deck?

Posted (edited)

Good work, Rix!!! Though, wouldn't the ss washer create a short due to it coming in contact with both the positive post via the spring, and the negative deck?

No, because the silicon insulator/seal from the AGA-T2 keeps it lifted about 1/32" above the deck, but now that you mention it, I could've flipped the RSST's insulator upside down and put it between the spring and the AGA-T2 seal and accomplished the same thing. I'll do that when I break it down again.

med_gallery_15088_188_1618.jpg

Edited by Rixter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines