mse12 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Posted January 29, 2013 Awesome! It looks like they are using different nuts on the positive post compared to what came with mine. My unit shipped with 3 small nuts that each have vertical grips cut in them. It looks like that picture is two larger knurled nuts. Hmm I may have to play Frankenstein and use the larger nuts off of my AGA-S. Hmm, the washers though is a great idea! I will try that out for sure! Thanks for the picture! Uma 1
Valld Posted January 30, 2013 Posted January 30, 2013 Daily consumption will rise... I vape at least 4ml a day, and often 6ml. Your mg nic strength will lessen though. Be sure to have Zero mg in fave flavor on stock, so as to dilute as needed. A wick will last at least 6 months. No problem. They can be taken out, washed under the faucet or put into an Ultra Sonic cleaner. I usually just torch the gunk off mine, and remove lingering blobs with an old soft toothbrush. The coil will last anywhere from 6-8 weeks, more or less. I just had to rewrap my Mini DID and felt dumbfounded getting started, because it had been sooooooo long since I'd wrapped a new coil. YMWV (your mileage will vary). That baby went for a long long time. Remove the wick, fire the button to heat the coils, then dunk the coils in distilled water, for a shock bath. (be sure NOT to dunk the mod of course lol). The boogers will fly off. Any remainders can just be groomed off with a soft toothbrush or ... if the wire uncoiled when you took the wick out because it was soooo gunked up, then just run a papertowel along the wire to clean the soot off. Just anneal the wire again, and rewrap, or cut off a new wire to anneal and wrap. How often does it need cleaned or dry burned? That mostly depends on your ejuice. If your juice is clear, and not too sugary, it will go a week to a few weeks between dry burnings. If you use to dark, sugary juices, you'll want to dry burn more often... a few times a week... maybe a few times a day, just like with your regular attys. The good thing about the Genesis type RBA, is you'll be able to see the soot and clumps appearing or overtaking... every time you remove the cap to refill, or to scoot that wick back away from the negative post, or whatever needs doing. They're much easier to keep track of, than the typical store bought premade atty. Hope this helps to answer your questions. Uma, thanks a lot for your imput! The online tracking is showing I might get it by the end of the week. Will come back to share my experience. Uma 1
Uma Posted January 30, 2013 Posted January 30, 2013 You're more than welcome! Looking forward to arrival of your new to you genesis, and we'll be here to help you with any areas you need. Just ask away! (barring crashing computers and the such, we'll be here lol).
Rixter Posted January 31, 2013 Posted January 31, 2013 Notice how the washers now act as an extender of the center positive post. It's almost like we've moved the center post closer to the wick, like a good little atty should be. The wire is now just a tad bit showing in between the mesh and the new positive post current. Would you happen to know the I.D., O.D., & thickness of the washers? Uma 1
Uma Posted January 31, 2013 Posted January 31, 2013 Would you happen to know the I.D., O.D., & thickness of the washers? Yes, try the .M2.5 washers Congrats on your incoming AGA-T+ , Rixter! Start bottling up your extra patience, you'll need lots for the learning curves.
mse12 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Posted February 7, 2013 (edited) I forgot to post this yesterday but the washers are great! The smallest I could find easily are M3. They fit but require a little more adjusting. I filed one down and put it on the bottom of the post. I then put one nut on, stacked two washers on that and tightened them down with a nut on top. I ran my coil wire in between the middle two washers and zero top coil hot spots. The wick now stands vertical instead of leaning too. This mod is critical to this rba! Thank you Uma! Edited February 7, 2013 by mse12 Uma 1
Uma Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 Right on!!! Glad this modification is working for you. I agree, it's a "must do!!" with these. You're welcome, glad I could help!
Uma Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 psssst, when you have time on your hands, can you come over and help Willmon with his chitty chid? thanks
mse12 Posted February 8, 2013 Author Posted February 8, 2013 psssst, when you have time on your hands, can you come over and help Willmon with his chitty chid? thanks I will tomorrow! I'm at work tonight but tomorrow I will take pics and see if I can help! Uma 1
Uma Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 Cool! I appreciate that. Important info on the AGA-T+ (2). (I just discovered this, sorry). The AGA-T+ is polycarbonate tank. The AGA-T2 is pyrex tank! Be sure to pick up the AGA-T2 if you like to vape citrus, clove or cinnamon flavors. They need the pyrex type of tank. The poly tanks crack with these juices.
mse12 Posted February 8, 2013 Author Posted February 8, 2013 My unit shipped with both...that's weird they would separate models like that. To think they would just offer pyrex as an addition to the unit instead of making a different "version." That isn't different at all. Uma 1
Uma Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 My unit shipped with both...that's weird they would separate models like that. To think they would just offer pyrex as an addition to the unit instead of making a different "version." That isn't different at all. I know, right. But now they're separating them, to confuse the issue. One of each is how it should have stayed, I agree. Keep an eye on the descriptions, they're subject to change....
Rixter Posted February 27, 2013 Posted February 27, 2013 (edited) I got my AGA-T+ for my birthday back on February 15th, and promptly popped the coil I made with the Kanthal that came in the package within 5 minutes. It was crimped pretty badly in a couple of places to begin with, so I ordered some more wire, and it arrived in today's mail. Success!!! 32g Kanthal...2.4Ω. My coil glows a nice even red across the wraps. After vaping for a few minutes with it, I can actually feel the nicotine coursing through my system...and it's only 16 mg. I'm currently running it at 8 watts, and my wick (also my first attempt) is doing its job quite well. Thanks to everyone who posted info on how to get up and running with SS mesh wicked RBAs. It really was painless. Sigelei ZMAX & AGA-T+ RBA (filled with VT Dulcis, of course). Edited February 27, 2013 by Rixter Uma 1
Rixter Posted February 27, 2013 Posted February 27, 2013 (edited) What is the screw on the far right for? ...and what the hell is this all about? Edited February 27, 2013 by Rixter
Uma Posted February 27, 2013 Posted February 27, 2013 Congrats Rixter!!! Your post brought mist to my eyes, I'm so happy for you. Right on! The tall screw in the first pic, is for Silica wicks, for those who prefer silica. haha, okay, I don't have a clue what they're hoping to accomplish in the second "wtf" pic. That's just crazy. (imho).
Rixter Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) I've vaped two tanks of juice through my AGA-T+, and although the vapor production and throat hit are excellent, flavor is definitely muted. The vapor is much cooler at 8-9 watts than other juicers I've used (cartos, DCTs, drip atties, etc.). The lack of heat seems to be the contributing factor in the lack of flavor I'm experiencing, and I'm wondering if others have noticed this with their AGA-T+. Edited February 28, 2013 by Rixter
Uma Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 The flavor will increase as the wick seasons. That's why we love our well seasoned wicks so much. Give it some time. For a hotter vape, actually a faster sizzle, just remove a coil or two as needed. Have you checked your OHMs since breaking it in? I bet it's increased.
Rixter Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 Well, I'm using it on a ZMAX set at 9 watts, and the resistance hasn't changed from its original 2.4 ohms. Won't fewer wraps mean less surface area on the coil, leading to less vapor production?
Uma Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 That is a good OHM to have with the VV type devices. If you were using a mechanical mod, I would definitely lower the resistance (less coils). The higher the number of coil wraps, the higher the resistance. The higher the resistance, the longer it takes to sizzle. BUT, some flavors prefer the cooler, gentler, resistance. Some mods, like the VV, also prefer the higher resistance coils. The lower the number of coil wraps, the lower the resistance. It will sizzle as soon as you hit the button. Recommended with mechanical mods. (mechanical mods don't have an AMP limit like the VV's do. But, the batteries have an AMP limit, so it's wise to know your particular batteries amp output. IMR-MNKE batteries, for instance, can pull 20 amps I believe it is. I'll have to double check the facts, so don't quote me). When you pick up another genny, you can do like the rest of us do, and have one set up with high resistance and another at low resistance, so you can test each out with your particular juices, and mods. Shoot, I rambled, and forgot the question. I should have hit the "quote" button. :facepalm:
Uma Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 Well, I'm using it on a ZMAX set at 9 watts, and the resistance hasn't changed from its original 2.4 ohms. Won't fewer wraps mean less surface area on the coil, leading to less vapor production? The lower the resistance, (the fewer coils), the more vapor usually. The higher the resistance, (the more coils), the more the flavor usually. To achieve more flavor: 1. Use twisted wire. (I use 32, some vapers use 30). Twisted wire means you take a length of wire, fold it in half, tie the ends off, hook it onto a hook. Place the other loopy end onto a coat hanger, and twist that hanger around nice and consistantly in tension, until it's twisted nicely all the way down the line. Cut off a piece, and wrap your wick like normal. This doubles the wire, which doubles the juice, which doubles the flavor. A lot of peeps use the drill chuck on lowest speed, which works the best for perfect steady tension. (it twists in a second, so watch out lol!) 2. Use flat ribbon wire. (#6 is popular). The flat ribbon wire covers more wick area, which theoredically(sp) holds more juice. It's also great for having less hot spots for some reason. However, it is a bit trickier to set up. Rixter 1
Rixter Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) I decided to start from scratch and make a new wick and coil. I followed Rick's advice from the video in making the wick, and made a 2Ω 5/4 coil with 32g Kanthal. I actually made 3 coils, but the resistance kept jumping around on them, so I kept making them until I got it right. Is this right? The flavor is better, but I'm sure that I'll have to give the wick some time to break in properly. That being said, it does seem to be a little more flavorful, if not a noticeably warmer vape. Edited February 28, 2013 by Rixter
Uma Posted March 1, 2013 Posted March 1, 2013 Looks great!! The coils are evenly lit up, and spaced apart. The base coil is close to the base, but not touching. The wick is level with the center post, if not lower. The amazing part to me, is the straight and true wick on the AGA-T+!! That is very hard to accomplish without hot spots from the top coil's long lead over to the Center Post. Most of us have to either use the washers to shorten that line's distance, or we have to twist the lead line back around the lead line... which is a huge pain in the as s when you have to undo it to recoil it again for any reason. Kudos!! The straightest wicks, produce the best wicking, because they're not kinked in any way. Bottom line is: if it vapes, it's right! There really isn't any "one" way to do these gennys. Different setups produce different nuances, yes, but the beauty of these gennys is the freedom to explore. Oh, and BTW, you guys are lucky to have gotten yours while you did... already China is cutting corners again and sending out "ahem" batches. My advice? Be sure your Vendor is experienced with gennys, and can keep China Factories in line. A Vendor who doesn't use gennys, wouldn't know a good one from a bad one if the bad one bit him/her! Always, do due diligence. Just because it's apples today, doesn't mean it's apples tomorrow. Things change daily. But, hopefully these AGA-T+'s will become good enough again, and stay that way.
Rixter Posted March 2, 2013 Posted March 2, 2013 I'm having some problems with a hot spot from the center post to the top coil now. Where is the best online place to buy the right washers to correct this? Also, they're gonna have to be really thin because there isn't much thread left to accommodate all three nuts and two additional washers. Uma 1
Uma Posted March 3, 2013 Posted March 3, 2013 Google search 2.5mm flat stainless steel washers. I believe Amazon & Hobby places have them. Here's a few links: http://www.radicalrc.com/ http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7365 You might have to dremel the outside edges, to lessen the width. I know MSE had to do that with the ones he found at his local store. He can fill you in more, when he gets back from wherever he's been. (probably super tired from working so hard). Here's a pic (by PixleJuice) which shows what it will look like.
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