Aga-S

[mse12]

So I have ordered the new version of the AGA-S. I am patiently awaiting it's arrival. I will provide updates and I'm sure many questions in the near future.

[mse12]

Well as I was sitting on the couch after dinner tonight a thought crossed my mind. I asked my wife had she checked the mail today and she said she had not. So after throwing on some house shoes and a jacket I checked it. Guess what I had? ...yep my new AGA-S! So after watching a couple videos on the YouTubez I boiled the unit to sterilize and got to work. On my first go I managed to cut roll and oxidize my first wick. Which is #400 ss. I wrapped what I think is a respectable 1.5ohm coil. The coil is 32awg kanthal at 4 wraps. I am vaping it now. Vapor production is great. Flavor is muted but I think that is just a matter of steeping this brand new bottle. I will post pics tomorrow. Now for the first question. How do you fill this thing? According to the vendor it holds around 2ml but I doubt I got one full ml in it. It just pours out of the fill hole while I'm trying to do it...very confused. Thanks in advance! Yay!

[Uma]

Woooooot!! Congrats on your new RBA journey.

To fill:

Make sure the needle is dry before inserting, or else the moisture bubbles block the air flow.

Empty the tank (using the syringe), pulsate dry burn the wick dry-ish, fill the syringe the rest of the ml limit, wipe off the needle, and either:

* tilt the tank like you fill a cup with beer or soda or carto and slowly squeeze the liquid in.

* or tilt the tank like above and shoot it in fast

* or tilt the tank completely upside down and shoot it in fast.

I have the best luck, personally, with the tilt and slow. Sometimes an air bubble will block, and I have to remove the juice, and repeat, but with added poke the bubble jabs first.

If the wick is still wet, it will seep up the wick and out the hole, with very little juice added. That's why I pulsate dry burn the wick dry first.

[mse12]

Well the initial success was short lived. I got it all together last night and vaped on it for about 30 minutes before going to bed for the night. This morning I got up and had a meeting at work that lasted 4 hours. I vaped on the way in, had two 10 min breaks during the meeting, and vaped it on the way home. Once I got home I filled the tank and started to have dry hits. I found what I think is a hot spot on the top coil. I tried to work it out by wiggling the wick and moving the top coil up and down a little. I couldn't fix it so I decided to scrap that coil and go for #2. Number 2 was a fail. I wrapped the coil in the same manner. I attached the ground to the screw and wrapped it up the wick. I made four turns and attached the top to the positive post. While the tank was empty I fired it. There was an immediate hot spot on the top coil. This time I was only able to fire it about 5 times before the coil popped. At the moment it's sitting on the table while I write this and enjoy a vape that IS working. So what is the cause of these hot spots? I truly think this wick is oxidized well. I burned the crap out of it. I followed the method that was used by JC West (via youtube). I also attempted to "re-oxidize" if there is such a thing when I removed the first coil. The positive post on this thing has a microscopic little knurled nut to attach the coil wire. I have a hard time doing this. I'm trying to hold the mod and wick in place and trying to keep tension on the wire and tighten the nut all at the same time. I don't know if there is a right or wrong way to attach the wire to that post.
Now, to the device itself. I love the way this RBA looks. The machine work is very solid. It has some heft but nothing horrible. My biggest complaint so far are the tiny o-rings that are supposed to hold the top on/in place. These are a joke and simply not sufficient. It needs and I will be getting bigger more substantial o-rings. I don't know yet where I will be getting these upgraded o-rings but it is going to be required for continued use. I will post pics soon. I want it to be setup and functioning before I post up pics.

[Uma]

Believe it or not, one of these coilings, that top coil nut will suddenly be a breeze. The dexterity just kicks in and voila! Where is that dexterity until then???? Only heaven knows.

Some vapers will actually wrap the wire around the post and leave the nut off. BUT, if you do that, your vapor will change temperature and volume. (possibly flavor?). If you decide to do that and if you have room, add that top nut,anyway, but don't worry about tightening it down. The top nut acts as a vortex thingie.

But you had it going your first day out, good job on that!! You obviously have the basics and are doing fine. Now it's just the finessing and troubleshooting.

One of the biggest reasons for a popped top coil is from using a mod battery that is not below 3.8 or from using a VV that is not below 3.0 on a new wrap. Did you remember to lower your VV or wait til your battery was low?

Another reason is because there is too long of a tightrope wire in between the wick and the Center Post (positive post). Try doing the hook trick. Before the coil leaves the wick to journey to the post, hold it on the wick so that it forms a nice hook. (JunkyRock shows how). This will shorten the distance that the current has to travel. We always strive for the shortest distances.

Another reason: Your wick may have become scratched from scooting the wire around. Take the wick out and torch it once again. Just a quickie should do it.

Another reason: If the bottom nut loosened at all, moisture may have entered the positive post tube. Tighten the nut again after twisting the atty onto your mod. (dry the center tube out first of course).

Also, sometimes if the wick is touching the top cap or the bottom of the tank, it might short out. Make sure the wick isn't touching the body of anything. (check for frayed areas).

Double check to make sure the wire is not touching any other wires and that each coil is pretty evenly spaced with each other.

The top coil hot spot is a common p.i.a. with all attys. The clones have it more, because the wick hole is further away from the center post than say the genuine DiD's. But, bending the wick slightly towards the post should help solve that.

When all is ready to go, with your mod on low VVV or low battery, take out the wick and pulsate your new coils until the hot spots heal themselves. Re-insert your wick, pulsate a time or two, then direct drip several times. Now fill er up if she's cookin. Re-DD the wick and if all is good, start increasing gradually, your VV power. Or switch to a not as old battery but not quite fresh one.

Within a half hour you should be going at full power without any problems. (sometimes less, sometimes more).

If you don't have used battery, then pulsate your 1/2 hour, with longer pulsates as you go along.

It sounds like a lot more trouble than it is. I gave you different scenario's for a "check off list" of things to check for.

I probably missed something lol.

Don't give up! It's so worth it, to be able to vape for pennies a day and to know how to fix your atty when it wonks out at the worst possible time. Pretty soon it will all be old hat to you.

I've been using gennys since June, and have only dealt with one blown top coil and that was on the clone I tried. (haven't touched it since lol, but I don't NEED to, because I have my trusty and well loved genuines). The clones are great for their own reasons, too, and worth getting to know their quirks.

Bummers about the top cap being o-rings instead of twisted on. I prefer the twist, so I don't worry about it coming off. I hope you find your 0-rings okay. At least it will be easy to line your airhole up with the wick eh. OHH, and another trick, is to be sure to vape it with the wick pointed towards the ground, to help wet the wick. (especially important on the clones with their small wick sizes).

egads, I wrote long. It's really not that much, just different "could be"'s.

Edited January 8, 2013 by Uma

[mse12]

So, after a few hours of leaving it alone and a short nap we're back up and running. I'm now running a 1.7 ohm coil. Here are the promised pictures! Enjoy.

[Uma]

Pretty darn impressive for being a first timer!

I'm happy to hear you have it up and running again.

[mse12]

Thank you for the support Uma! I'm happy with this coil so far. I've vaped like 3-4 tanks through it so far. Granted the tank is only holding about 1ml each fill. I don't know where the vendor came up with 2ml capacity...that's a joke. I filled the tank up with the platform off and 1ml was up to the threads. Anyway...vaping pretty well. It shipped with a tiny plastic little plug for the second hole. If that plug is in it pretty much does not wick at all. Immediate dry hits when I try to put it in and vape. There is a little leaking from that hole going on inside the top cap but it gets vaped if you take a pull on it holding it straight up so no problem there! If I can figure out how to find some new/better o-rings this rig will be pretty solid!

[Uma]

You're welcome! It sounds like the "S" is a nice workable one afterall, like the first reports promised it to be. I have the "T" but not yet the "S" and soon the "T+" will be out and I have a feeling it's the same thing as the "S". (Vendors like to confuse the issue).

O-rings ... maybe discountvapors will be carrying them? Radio Shack, Hobby stores, etc.. might have the right size. There's a few o-ring shops on the net, where we can buy colorful ones as well, but I don't have a link, you'll have to google. Good luck!!

Looking at your photos, the wick hole is indeed closer to the center post!! Yay!! That was a major problem with the chids, chobra, and previous clones. The AGA-T is too far away too, but manageable.

Oh! The tank ml size. When it says 2ml, it's really 1.5ml because of needed airflow room. But, yours sounds even smaller than promised. Go figure eh. You might want to keep an eye out or contact IBTanked for a tank that will fit the S.

Now that it's working good, you'll be removing coils, to keep the OHMS where you want em. Isn't life grand! We are no longer stuck with the same coil, nor searching for a 6v mod in order to run those dying storebought coils. We just remove a coil! Easy Peasy.

How do the insulators feel on the "S"? Are they like the carto condom type of silicone or are they super squishy, cut like biscuit dough? I hope they've improved drastically, like promised. (if squishy dough, you can cut to fit a carto condom).

The refill hole has a plastic stopper? I didn't know that at all. You can break off a toothpick or something to fit the hole after the juice is vaped down some or for when you need to turn it off and pocket it for awhile. (sounds safer anyway).

As long as there is a small strawhole in the wick itself, (rolled the wick with a needle or toothpick or straightened out paperclip inside), then it should wick good with the Fill hole plugged as long as there is airflow room in the tank. Should and do are two different things, of course. It sounds like you're experimenting with cause and effects, and are already mastering a lot of the quirks! Pretty soon, I will be coming to you for solutions.

Good luck with the o-ring search.

Edited January 9, 2013 by Uma

[Uma]

haha, there is the Variable Volt, the Variable Power/Watt, and now, thanks to the RBA, we have the Variable OHMs. Gawd I love it!

[mse12]

By the refill hole I was referring to the second wick hole. I think I'll opt to keep the plug out since the tank holds so little to begin with. This setup seems decent enough. The bottom section is a single piece so I doubt there will any tanks available. I could be wrong. I'm very interested in the T+ when it is available. The insulators are as stiff as the condoms for sure. A little squishy but not bad. There are also two delrin inserts that are not removable.

Edited January 9, 2013 by mse12

[tartanraven]

I added washers to the centre post on my AGA-T's (four of them) basically doing what is also necessary with the bliSS (two of them as well) Welcome to "The Dark Side" mse12. Spot on advice Uma! Another thing that I recommend is to oxidise the ends of your wicks after you've snipped them to prevent bottom of the tank shorting. People always remember to leave a 1mm distance from the bottom of the tank, but after tapping the rig on a table or whatnot a few times, the wick can creep downwards.

[Uma]

I added washers to the centre post on my AGA-T's (four of them) basically doing what is also necessary with the bliSS (two of them as well) Welcome to "The Dark Side" mse12. Spot on advice Uma! Another thing that I recommend is to oxidise the ends of your wicks after you've snipped them to prevent bottom of the tank shorting. People always remember to leave a 1mm distance from the bottom of the tank, but after tapping the rig on a table or whatnot a few times, the wick can creep downwards.

Nice tips!!!!

Edited January 10, 2013 by Uma

[Uma]

Check this out! The AGA-T+ is making it to stores across the pond, it shouldn't be long before they're over here. (it's not a fable afterall lol). http://www.ivapour-elixir.co.uk/aga-t2-atomizer.html

[mse12]

Yeah I've seen at least one USA vendor that has them available for pre-order they say they will ship on the 18th...

[mse12]

Update:

Well now being about 4-5 days in I'm still pretty happy. The only other delivery system I've used is my trusted boge carto tanks. I'm on coil #4. This is measuring at 1.4ohm. No hot spots. Out of 4 coils I've had 3 working coils. #1 vaped shortly before developing the hot spot. #2 died pretty much as soon as it was wrapped. #3 only was removed so I could wash the wick....had it wrapped too tightly. #4 is working great, had a small hot leg by the negative screw but was able to wiggle it out. I'm about 6-8 tanks into this coil and it's working very well. So far being the first RBA I've used I'm happy. I will be picking up the AGA-T+ soon, probably in the next couple weeks but not sure. I would love to have this setup with about a 3ml tank instead of this 1ml. I'm still needing o-rings but between working and being busy haven't really even looked for them.

[Uma]

Great to hear you're doing so well with your new adventure!

[mse12]

Uma, I was wrong about the aga-s's tank not coming off! I had this thing almost two weeks before I realized that there is actually another whole threaded section at the bottom of the tank!!! HA! There is NO seam where it attaches and I had no idea it even came apart! I went to unscrew it the other day and it actually started coming apart at that seam. I thought it was broke until I realized there are threads and another o-ring. I just wanted to let you know. The tank sleeve itself does in fact come off of the base. Still loving it minus the whole top o-ring thing.

[Uma]

Right on!! This makes it easier to clean, change out tanks, and all the fun stuff. I figured it had to come off, but, then again, being China, ...

I wish there were a way to make that top cap stay on tighter. I'll keep my ears open for any tips as I read the threads in the various forums.

[Uma]

The only fix I've heard so far, is to use thicker o-rings. At least they're cheap to buy bags in assorted sizes.

[mse12]

The only fix I've heard so far, is to use thicker o-rings. At least they're cheap to buy bags in assorted sizes.

Have you heard any specific sizes? lol I've bought two separate "multi-packs" and none would allow the lid to close. I guess just too thick. They fit the diameter but the rings themselves were too thick... oh well, the search continues.

[Uma]

I don't know the size, they didn't specify, and I didn't ask. (I should have!).

Maybe try a little bit of vaseline on the o-ring, for the cap to slide easier?

Or, more bags of o-rings.

I'll go search for the "101 uses for spare o-rings of all sizes" topic...

[Uma]

Pixlejuice said that "if you change the red o-rings to the spare black ones that come with the Aga S, it may work better."

Hope this helps to keep that cap on. .

[mse12]

I have killed my AGA-S today. There is a plastic insert in the base of the unit. This is a hard plastic insert which I assume is Delrin. This piece can not be removed. I cleaned all of my rba's today and to speed up the drying I figured I could just pop them in the toaster oven. I set the oven to 350 and put the timer on for like 10 minutes. Had I done my research before hand I would have not done this. Come to find out the melting point of Delrin is 347. Needless to say I pulled the tray out to find a melted mess. There is no fixing this unless I get a new base. I would have to find a replacement delrin insert and press it in. I guess you live and learn. At least this was only a $22 lesson.

Edited February 5, 2013 by mse12

[Uma]

Oh dear me! Thanks for the headsup on this, it will save others from experiencing the same. Hopefully you can pick up another real soon, I know how much you've enjoyed using it. Thank goodness for having stockpiles of other stuff eh!

If the base can be cleaned up... I wonder... I wonder if maybe a cut off cartomizers condom, would work? Or a circle from a milk jug? Or .... but, if it doesn't, there goes your mod! Not worth experimenting probably.