Uma Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Ahh yes, the Top Coil. That one can be a little p.i.a. with good attys sometimes, but with the clone, it's a given. The chid's clone's wick hole is placed too far away from the center post which means there's a lot more wire between the wick and center post. A highwire act can be found there if you're a flea. To fix this, you'll have to kinda bend the wick over towards the center post, to lessen the gap. But don't let it touch the cp or crease in two. Next, try to take the excess gap out of the wire by making a captain hook's hook right before it leaves the wick. Tighten the top nuts again. Also, did you anneal your wire? Annealing the wire takes the spring out, makes it easier to wrap. Plus it removes the machine oil it may have. Above all else, make sure the coil is not too tight. The top coil will sometimes dig into the wick when it's pulled over to the CP (center post). Can you gently twist and lift the wick out of the coils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmon22 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 I am going to have to work on that more. As I still can't get it loose enough to have it move around easier. And I did take a flame to the kanthal wire to make it easier to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uma Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Until it's easily (not slippery easy, but snug easy) removable, the hot spot will probably continue because the coil(s) is probably digging into the wick. Too tight of coils cause shorts, plus they restrict the wick flow. You can anneal your wire after each un-coil, before you re-coil. Running it between your thumb and finger along the hot wire will smooth the kinks out, making it easy to use again. I like to leave the tail on the center post until after I'm confident it's up and running good. After it's broke in nicely, you'll more than likely remove a coil a week. Oh, and be sure to use batteries that are half used up, so that the coils aren't surged. If you're using a VV, then use it at lowest setting until it's up and running good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CASEACE79 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 It was the top one. And it just refused to stop glowing orange. I will work on it further when I get a chance to get some more liquid. Grrr!!! The dreaded top coil. Here are a few tips that might help out. The secret is to get the wick as close to that positive post without it touching. You want as little room between the wick and positive post as possible. Here's a pic. Also 80% of all problems people have with gennys are either the mesh isn't oxidized enough or the wick isn't close enough to the positive post. If you are having problems with shorts it's usually one of 3 places (wick in contact with the top cap, in contact with the bottom of the tank, or not oxidized enough where the wick enters the wick hole) Hope this helps. Uma 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmon22 Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Yeah sounds like some stuff I might of looked over. I always thought I had my wick too close at the top but I guess I might have not had it close enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CASEACE79 Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Yeah sounds like some stuff I might of looked over. I always thought I had my wick too close at the top but I guess I might have not had it close enough. Oh and also you can use a pair of tweezers to crimp the coil around the backside of the wick. The idea isn't to get the wick closer to the post as it is to have as little room as possible when the coil leaves the surface of the wick to the positive post. rsanders and Uma 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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