willmon22 Posted January 2, 2013 Posted January 2, 2013 www.litecigusa.net/Genesis_Stainless_Steel_Mesh_Wick_p/genesis-atomizer-wick.htm I happen to run into this and I think it is better this way. As you don't have to roll it or oxidize it as it has already been done for you. Also I believe it is even cheaper as it is only 95 cents a wick instead of 3.95 from what I seen elsewhere for 2 pieces.
CASEACE79 Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Yes but you can roll many wicks with those sheets. Not to mention different size diameters and lengths, solid or hollow, thin walled with a large hole or thicker wall with smaller hole. Oxidizing isn't hard and only takes 5 min. It is nice to have the option though. Thanks for the link. Uma 1
willmon22 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Posted January 3, 2013 Well the sheets I seen were only long enough to make 2 wicks and have a small amount left from each wick made that you can't do anything with. I looked at a site and found the sizes are 2 x 1 1/8 inches doesn't seem like much.
Uma Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 This is where I (most of us) buy. Scroll down a little and you'll see 400 and then the 500 in big flat sheets (size of a manilla envelope big) http://themeshcompany.com/acatalog/25-micron-super-fine-mesh.html
willmon22 Posted January 4, 2013 Author Posted January 4, 2013 Well that would be hard for me to get as I am in the US. And I don't want to pay extra to get something shipped from the uk to here.
Scottua25 Posted January 4, 2013 Posted January 4, 2013 Check this out. I order from here a lot for work and if you're on the east coast you usually receive next day. Lot's of options so look around a bit as I only linked to the 400x400. It's a bit pricey but it's always there. The 325x325 is a lot cheaper and a lot of people recommend this size as well. http://www.mcmaster.com/#9319T189
Uma Posted January 4, 2013 Posted January 4, 2013 haha, yes, it can be pricey with the shipping, unless you enter a coop for it.. The good news is, they send you a free sheet of different size to try with every sheet you order. If you buy 2, you'll get 4. (a lifetime's worth for most). McMaster and Carr is a good place too, a lot of vapers get theirs there. Make sure it's the right "grade", it can get confusing at all the places. I still to this day have to rely on the direct link from another vaper lol.
willmon22 Posted January 4, 2013 Author Posted January 4, 2013 So how many wicks can you get out of these and what would the average price per wick be?
Uma Posted January 4, 2013 Posted January 4, 2013 A sheet is 140mm x 250mm (size of a regular magazine). You can cut quite a few 2mm x 3mm sheets (or 1.5.. x 2mm for the smaller wick holes in the clones). I don't do math. But I can toss ya the numbers for you to solve. (then you can tell me ok, cus, really, I really don't do math).
willmon22 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Posted January 5, 2013 Ok, throw me the numbers and I can calculate it for you.
willmon22 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Posted January 5, 2013 Ok what are the prices of those specified sizes. I only see sizes.
Uma Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 The #400 fine A1 is 6.99 in euros. (plus, don't forget, they send a same sized sheet of a different size for free with it).
willmon22 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Posted January 5, 2013 It would be less than 5 cents a wick I believe. Now is there somewhere that charges just as cheap for coils? Uma 1
Uma Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 King Orchid of ebay. Make sure you get Kanthal A1 either 32 or 30 or 28 gauges are good. He has some in stock now, but he'll be out soon. Keep checking with him til you nail some. He restocks every week usually. http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-1-32-awg-resistance-heating-wire-100-ft-/251177457898?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7b57d8ea Nice price on the wick's eh. Plus one wick will last months... a good coil will last 6 weeks more or less. (I'm on my 7th week on my Mini DiD right now).
willmon22 Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 (edited) Looks like I am going to have to look more into this then. I have a genesis clone but I still haven't gotten it to work perfectly yet. I am out of juice at the moment. The only juice I do have left I am afraid to use as I think it is expired and it tastes funny. So what is the difference between all the wire he is selling? Can't you just buy the cheapest one as it can withstand about the same as the link that you gave me. I guess it is the amount of ohms per foot. Edited January 6, 2013 by willmon22
Uma Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 The thickness of the wire gives differet ohms, yes. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire. I think, if I remember right, you ended up with a CHID/Griffen/dud/ type of clone right? If my guess is correct, the one you have was the first off the China line... which means they've since improved V A S T L Y but still, of course, have a ways to go before they're spot on with the genuines. I would search for the AGA-T+ that will be out soon. Or the AGA-S (it's the T but all SS) The chid sucks. Make sure you thoroughly wash the machine oil out of the atty before using. Dry thoroughly. Use a hair dryer or a low oven on that tube. (this goes for any rba) Make sure your center post TUBE thingie is dry as a bone inside. (this goes for any rba) After you twist it onto your mod, tighten the center post nuts again. (this goes for any rba) Did you pick up a cartomizer/atomizer OHM reader? Those are real handy for figuring out shorts.
willmon22 Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 No, never got the chance. I am unemployed and work won't pick back up until spring or summer. No one else is hiring at the moment.
Uma Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 No, never got the chance. I am unemployed and work won't pick back up until spring or summer. No one else is hiring at the moment. Bummers all the way around. I hope you find work soon!!
Uma Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 What kinds of problems are you having setting up your clone? Wicking? OHMs? Hot Spots? Shorts?
willmon22 Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 Not sure. I get the coil to light up evenly before I get liquid on it. After I fill it with liquid it stops lighting up evenly.
Uma Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 When the wick is good and wet and the coils are not shorting, there won't be any red coils showing. Just vapor. If there are red coils showing (hot spots) even when the wick is wet, you can twist the wick up and around a little. Perhaps there's a non-oxidized spot hitting the coil. (also, doing this, you will know whether or not a coil is on too loose or too tight. You want the wick to be gently snug, but not tight) There is more, but we'll start with that. The insulators in the chid/griffen clone suck. If you have any carto condoms laying around, you can adlib/cut those to fit. The goal is to keep moisture out of the Center Post Tube. Sometimes when we tighten the atty onto the mod, the center nut loosens (on any rba). Be sure to tighten as needed. If it produces vapor with the cap off, but not with the cap on, you might need to lift and shorten your wick so that it doesn't touch the bottom of the tank or go above the center post height. Line your air hole up with your wick for good vapor. Off Kilter for stronger throat hit. You might need to lightly wet sand the cap til it fits, checking the fit with every grind. Or, add an o-ring so that the cap sits differently. (the clones aren't precision made, we have to fix it ourselves). I hope it's one of the above... Once you have a genny up and running, there's no going back. They're amazing!
Uma Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 Can you post a picture? Is it one red coil or more? Top coil? Bottom coil? middle? Which coil(s) turn red? The red one is your culprit when the wick is wet.
willmon22 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Posted January 7, 2013 It was the top one. And it just refused to stop glowing orange. I will work on it further when I get a chance to get some more liquid.
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