willmon22 Posted December 4, 2012 Posted December 4, 2012 So I received it in the mail today from vapinmamma and I oxidized the steel mesh by using a blow torch several times and it got bright orange as it was suppose to. Then I get down to the coil, It has 2 screws and a center post with 3 nuts on it I think. So I wrapped the coil around the wick and then attached the coil to the 2 screws with it wrapped around the center post once. I only got a small section of it orange from one screw up to the center post but it didn't light up the coil around the wick. So then I found well if I just put the coil under one screw wrap it around the wick and then just unscrew one of the nuts on the center post and wrap it under there it worked perfectly. I am sure this is how it is suppose to be done all I seen on youtube was nothing but ones that are single screw and some type of brass post in the middle. I have attached a picture so you can see what I did maybe if it isn't too fuzzy.
willmon22 Posted December 4, 2012 Author Posted December 4, 2012 Well I must be doing something wrong. I put some eliquid in it and I was firing the coil and all seemed well but it tasted burnt. Then I re wrapped the coil and it was a good thing I test fired it before I put it back together as the mesh kept catching fire for some odd reason. I found that the coil wasn't pushed down below the wick I guess then it stopped. But now it tastes really bad burnt. How long do I have to let the eliquid soak and how do I store the atomizer as I think it may leak as the wick isn't fitting snugly in the hole it is as if it is too skinny.
Jeffb Posted December 4, 2012 Posted December 4, 2012 I've never tried an RBA. Seems kinda tedious to get things to work properly. Hope you like it.
willmon22 Posted December 4, 2012 Author Posted December 4, 2012 Not really, I can't seem to get it to work properly. I have plenty of ejuice on it and it still end up tasting badly burnt. And that is at 3 volts too. So there has to be something seriously wrong. I have this juice in my DCT and I never got this bad of a burnt taste before. I think I know what vapinmamma means by to powerful of a hit. I believe it may not be wicking properly or something.
willmon22 Posted December 4, 2012 Author Posted December 4, 2012 Well I feel stupid. I found a video in which actually looks like what I have. I have done it correctly as I thought just didn't realize that the other screw is for filling apparently. I thought it was like the other screw just a hole and then it has a bottom but it actually goes into the tank. I am just going to let it soak for awhile or whatever you call it. What I do know is that the coil fires immediately with no delay the top part anyways. But I have to be doing something wrong it seems to want to catch the wick on fire sometimes. I put it on 6 volts once just to see what would happen and in a second the wick caught fire. Then I put it back down to 3 volts and it caught fire again after about 5 seconds. It has stopped doing this once again but I am afraid I might end up inhaling some fire at some point and then really burn myself.
willmon22 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Posted December 6, 2012 I think my wick may be too short or maybe my coils weren't close enough together. Or perhaps I haven't let the coils get hot enough just yet to get them ready. But I have found even on a regular ego that the wick has caught fire still: If someone that knows alot about these atomizers happens to see this thread and knows what I am doing wrong it would greatly be appreciated. I am getting close to making it work properly but I am getting a slight burnt taste still and it has plenty of liquid getting wicked.
DAYVAPE Posted December 6, 2012 Posted December 6, 2012 (edited) Both wires do not go to the center post... that would mean you have them both on the positive terminal. The bottom end of the wire goes under one screw.. and the top end goes to the center post. Also, you need to use these on a device that checks the resistance of the coil or you have no idea what voltage to vape at. They are said to be 'advanced user devices' for a reason... you must have knowledge of how to properly use them. This is not meant to bash you... I'm simply saying that you need to know what you are doing to set it up properly. Edited December 6, 2012 by DAYVAPE Uma 1
Uma Posted December 6, 2012 Posted December 6, 2012 The clone that you have, has a small wick hole. The smaller the wick hole, the less it wicks. You might have to turn it upside down now and then, like we do the Viva's etc. in order to avoid any burnt or dry hits. First thing, like Jeffb mentioned, is to get an OHM meter. I got mine at MadVapes, but can't find the link right now, but I did find one a COV. http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1334&category_id=127&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=85 It's indespensible. Watch Scott's video again and again. His video is about the real genuine product, not the clone, but it still provides the basics. Todd and AG have a video on how to rig up the clone. AG: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YjIusGTPB_I Todd: and, of course, there are a lot of others.
willmon22 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Posted December 6, 2012 Well I have talked to scott. Or igetcha69. It was as I would have thought it is shorting out and I need to get the coils lined up better. And yes I understand what you mean about more of a advanced user. But tell me this if you don't have any other steps to get to be more advanced then what step are you suppose to take? I don't mean to sound bad but basically everyone at one point never had any experience with lots of the things they do today. And how are you suppose to get experience with it if you don't try it at some point. And for the ohms and the correct amount to vape at I am going by length of the coil. Since it is 2 inches I would assume it is 1.4Ohms minimum so I shouldn't go over 3.7 volts also I do what I was told anyway. Just start low until I find what voltage is best. But anyways if I can't get it to go properly then I will just send it to one of you that has experience with these as I don't want to have a device if I won't be able to get it set up properly.
willmon22 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Posted December 6, 2012 I think I am just going to stick to these regular tanks. I just can't seem to get the coils lined up properly. I did it once but it seemed like it was still tasting burnt to me. If one of you out there that uses these wants it I will send it to you. But only if you know how to use it or have used one before. I don't want them to end up getting frustrated like I have with it. The steps seemed simple enough and I have followed them all. It just seems that I am not good enough to use one of these and probably never will be. I was just wanting to use one as it would make things even more cheap as 6 would get at least 4-5 atomizers instead of just 2 like it would for the tanks I use.
Uma Posted December 6, 2012 Posted December 6, 2012 (edited) Don't give up yet. It's worth it once you get past the learning curves. EXTREMELY worth it with a genuine genesis, to be honest, but at least worth the while with the clones. Every wick is different. In order to "know" for a fact the ohm, you need an OHM meter of some kind. The one I linked you to, or the provari is good. The first pic shows good even hot coils. Give yourself a pat for that. I'll try to outline some steps for you to check and cross off: 1. torch the wick, either with a torch or over the gas stove top. Try to keep it in the blue flame. The blue flame isn't as hot as the orange flame, which is good, because you don't want to make the mesh brittle. Too hot of a flame will brittle it. Hold it in one place until it turns bright orange, then move to the next spot. Repeat until the entire surface and edges of both sides have been oranged at least once, preferrably twice. 2. Fold over the far edge a little bit, crease it tight. 3. Straighten out a medium sized paper clip, or take a fat needle, and set it on the near edge, and roll the paper clip towards the folded far edge. 4. Check for fit in the hole. Make tighter or looser as needed. It should go in snug, but not tight. Just a little bit of friction. Some vapers prefer loose, to where there is an air between the rolled wick and the mesh. 5. Take nail clippers or scissors and cut the tank's end of the wick at a 45% angle. This allows the juice to enter easier. 6. Torch the wick again, paying extra attention to the newly cut end. You don't want any frayed edges touching any part of the atty/tank/ top cap, etc. 7. OPTIONAL step, and one that I do religously: Torch the rolled wick, then while hot, dunk it into cold water (preferably distilled water). Repeat 2 more times. This will stiffen the wick. (nice if you live on bumpy roads or have a thin wick). 8. OPTIONAL step, and another that I do all the time: Wet the wick with VG or whatever you have on hand. Light it on fire with your match or bic lighter. Let the fire die out naturally. Repeat this 2x's. It's called "seasoning the wick" 9. Cut your wire, and anneal it. Anneal means to heat it with your bic lighter all along it's width. Pinch the hot wire between your fingers and run your fingers along it's length. This smooths out the kinks, plus makes it easier to work with because it also makes the wire less springy. 10. Wrap your coil to your wick. There are many different ways to do it. The main rule on it, is that you want to wrap the coil snug, but never tight and never loose. You want perfect tension, and you will achieve that with practice. Perfect means you can lightly twist and lift the wick out and reinsert easily. You will remove the wick from time to time in order to dry burn your coils. A. Leaving tails for the negative screw and for the center post, wrap your wire around your wick at least 4 times. (many like to do 5/4). Set your wrapped wick into the hole, place the bottom tail under the negative screw and tighten the screw down. Now wrap the other tail and wrap it around the center post and tighten down the nut. Make sure there is not too much room between the center post and the wick. Think Captain Hook and pinch any spacey wire. TAKE OUT THAT PAPER CLIP now. LIFT the wick off the bottom of the tank. You don't want it to touch anything metal at any time. B. Look at the wires. The negative wire should be extremely close to the base, but NOT touching the base. The wires on the coil should be as equally spaced as possible. Make sure the wick isn't touching the center post. Make sure there is no highwire act going on between the center post and wick. C. With an OHM meter, check the ohm. If it's steady, you're good to go. If it says 0 there's a hard short. If it bounces around there's a minor short. Turn off the OHM meter, and with a toothpick or something, play with the coils until they all glow evenly and pretty much simutaneously. If one glows hotter than another, it's usually the coil beneath that one that needs scooting a bit. If the top coil is hot, tighten the nut, or kink a hook, or rewrap that part. Also, Sometimes, we just need to twist and lift the wick a bit to fix all shorts. Sometimes there's a frayed edge or something. Don't despair. You'll eventually figure it out. D. Set it on a mod that has a dull battery. Pulsate the coils. Pulsating will heal most minor shorts, oxidize the wick more, and be safer for your mod as well. Once all coils are glowing nicely, then REWET the wick, and fire it up, and check for spurts and sputters. You're aiming for a nice steady stream of white vapor into the heavens. A few sputters, spits are okay, but if it goes wild on you, you need to scoot some coils or oxidize your mesh more. E. TRIM the top of the wick so that it is level with or below the center post height. Fill up the tank, rewet your wick, and you're good go. Once you've achieved a great setup, you'll see it gets easier and easier and faster and faster to achieve. The good news is, the Wick will last you months and months, and the coil will last for a good 6 weeks or more too. Whenever it starts to lose pizazz, just take off a coil. The more seasoned and oxidized the wick gets, the less coils we can get away with. (LR) The fresher the battery, the hotter the vape too, so keep that in mind whenever lowering your resistance. I know this looks like a lot, and probably looks overwhelming, but just take one step at a time, check it off your to do list, and by the end of day you'll realize that it wasn't that much at all. Good luck. Edited December 6, 2012 by Uma DAYVAPE 1
DAYVAPE Posted December 6, 2012 Posted December 6, 2012 Talk about informative! Excellent write up Uma !! And an Ohm meter is a must have... you shouldn't be setting these up by simply eye-balling the coil. Uma 1
Uma Posted December 6, 2012 Posted December 6, 2012 Thanks DayVape! I hope it is helpful to newbies. Hopefully Jdog will pop in and offer some tips too. She has a genuine Mini DID up and running better than mine! I so completely agree about the OHM meter. Without it, one will get HARD SHORTS and possibly ruin the mod. or at the least, go through a truck load of mod springs. It's not worth it. Besides, the OHM meter can be used to check off the store bought attys and cartos too. Even those can cause hard shorts if there's a short in them. The Genesis is just the easiest one ever for fixing those shorts so that they're usable instead of tossed. I've tossed too many attys and cartos in the last few years. Sucks. But, I've never had to toss my Genesis! (genuine DID's). It's impossible to always achieve the same exact thickness of rolled mesh. And when we change from, say, 325 to 400 size mesh or even to 500, we again have a brand new ball game. There is no EXACT ohm reading from numbers. We HAVE to have an OHM Meter reader. Thanks for pointing that out, DayVape!! DAYVAPE 1
willmon22 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Posted December 6, 2012 Thank you uma. That was very informative. I will be getting more juice at some point and try this out. As I am certain that the atomizer will work great once I learn how to get it up and going. I was wanting to get one at one point but a since one seems to cost up to 20 even when they are on sale. This one was given to me by vapinmamma and I am very grateful It will be great once I learn how to get it up and going. I think I may just be over-thinking it and making it harder than it really is. And as for the ohm meter I only have a multimeter that can read ohms but I am really thinking it isn't working right. At the moment I think the atomizer is shorting out because I push the wick all the way to the bottom and it is touching the bottom I am sure. So I guess if I lift it up a little off the bottom then it may not short out as badly and make the wick catch fire sometimes.
willmon22 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Posted December 6, 2012 (edited) I think I got it now. I think all it was was just that the wick was touching the bottom. I wrapped it around 3 times and it is all lighting up nice and even now. I am going to try some of this older liquid I have and see if it goes anywhere. But here is a new picture: Only problem is that this coil is probably really low resistance. Maybe .7 or something it is an inch long or less. I will be getting better photos eventually this webcam isn't the greatest. My phone is a little better. This is the best I will be able to do for a picture until I can get better lighting in my room. It may not look even in this picture but it is just like the above picture. Edited December 6, 2012 by willmon22 Uma 1
willmon22 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Posted December 6, 2012 I got the juice directly on the wick the coils still light up evenly. It sputtered a little but I guess it was because I put too much on it. Once I get more liquid I will know for sure if I have got it up and going right. I actually tried out by dripping on the coil and it seems to have a great taste now with no burning either. It is no longer catching fire either even when I jack it up to 6 volts it didn't even pop the coil either when it stayed on as long as it does. Uma 1
Uma Posted December 6, 2012 Posted December 6, 2012 Good deal! Glad to hear/see it's going. Careful of that 6v though. That's a sure fire way to burn your juice plus pop a coil... perhaps over amp your mod/battery too. The top pic looks great, nice and even. ! The 2nd pic, it looks like the bottom coil isn't as evenly heated up. If that's true, check to see if your wire stays low to the base all the way til it wraps. You don't want it touching the base, but you don't want a lot of air there either. If it's shorting a little, just push that coil down a little towards the base. (and then even up the others if need be, and retighten the center post nut of course). Glad you stuck with it!! It's so worth the learning curves. You'll see.
willmon22 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Posted December 6, 2012 The lighting in my room isn't too great. And my android phone just isn't good enough to use the light I do have in the room. Is it possible to make 2 coils on the wick? Or is there not enough room on the wick to handle 2 coils? I think 2 coils may work a little better. And what I have for a better is this: http://www.free-cigs.com/Ego-Pass-through-VV-Black_p_130.html It worked great when I first got it, just it is a little lacking lately I think it is because the cartomizer I have is probably going out I guess. I can't barely get 100 puffs from it when it is at 6 volts. I am using a Smoktech DCT and it is 2.5ohms I think. I usually use 1.5 dual coils but they were out of stock on it now they are out of stock on all except the ego ones on ecblend.
Jdog Posted December 7, 2012 Posted December 7, 2012 it took me 3 days to get mine to work... but once you get it, you got it! what a lady you are uma! explaining RBAs to everyone Uma 1
DAYVAPE Posted December 7, 2012 Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) 6 VOLT VAPING ON A GENISIS STYLE ATOMIZER ROCKS! Edited December 7, 2012 by DAYVAPE Uma 1
Uma Posted December 7, 2012 Posted December 7, 2012 The lighting in my room isn't too great. And my android phone just isn't good enough to use the light I do have in the room. Is it possible to make 2 coils on the wick? Or is there not enough room on the wick to handle 2 coils? I think 2 coils may work a little better. And what I have for a better is this: http://www.free-cigs.com/Ego-Pass-through-VV-Black_p_130.html It worked great when I first got it, just it is a little lacking lately I think it is because the cartomizer I have is probably going out I guess. I can't barely get 100 puffs from it when it is at 6 volts. I am using a Smoktech DCT and it is 2.5ohms I think. I usually use 1.5 dual coils but they were out of stock on it now they are out of stock on all except the ego ones on ecblend. I'm not sure I understand your question, or problem. What I understand, 2 coils are usually reserved for U-ey type wicks or the new double wick types of gennies. Other ways of using 2 coils consists of a twisted coil. The twisted coil is just that. You take a long length of wire, bend it in half, loop the looped end onto the end of a tool and twist the wire nice and tight without kinking. You then wrap it normally on your wick. Is that what you meant? it took me 3 days to get mine to work... but once you get it, you got it! what a lady you are uma! explaining RBAs to everyone You were so wonderfully persistent!! Yours is the first time I ever heard about "fire" lol. What a great time we had figuring that one out. Looking back, I bet it seems so funny to you now. 6 VOLT VAPING ON A GENISIS STYLE ATOMIZER ROCKS! OHHH, do tell!! I didn't know you have a genny!! Rock on!!!
willmon22 Posted December 7, 2012 Author Posted December 7, 2012 Well I guess what I mean is it possible to put 2 seperate coils on it. Like use one screw that is the juice hole and the other one and wrap the coil and have both coils work? I haven't tried it but I think it could be possible. But then again the coil would be going a long way to the other screw and might just short out.
Uma Posted December 7, 2012 Posted December 7, 2012 No, I wouldn't attempt that, tbh. Besides, it would shorten the vaping hours of your battery if indeed the battery and mod withstood it. That's a big "if". There are a few attys out there built with that in mind though, like the Fogatti22 or I think Bliss, perhaps the Silver Dog. There are a lot of good threads all across the net in various forums, discussing the pros and cons of various types of setups, mesh sizes, wire gauge sizes, twisted wire, dual wicks, u-ey wicks, and so on. I wouldn't advise setting up the clone that way though. The insulators, for one, are not strong, the center post is wobbly, the screws are minute, ... it just doesn't have a lot of safety features built into it... the clones are just a cheap way to see if we might like the genesis style of atty, it's not meant to be a workhorse. Perhaps the future ones will be better... we can always hope. Oh, and yes, you can remove coils easily. Removing one at a time until you say AHA! that's what I'm talking about. Just be aware of how high or low your mod's battery is at the time of adjusting...
Uma Posted December 7, 2012 Posted December 7, 2012 LOL, I'm a God Poster. LOL Think I'll go change my post title into something a little more comfortable. lol
Uma Posted December 8, 2012 Posted December 8, 2012 (edited) Changed into something more comfy, but not comfy enough. I need a script writer to come up with something clever, I'm afraid. These did CLONES were the first ones built by China. They tried to copy MMVapors Mini DID, but they didn't do their perspectives homework. They work, and have knurling, but that's about it. They are cheaper than sin, and that's why they became oh so popular. But, they lacked horribly in the materials & craftsmanship dept. Since these first ones came out, the COOP leaders and even many of the Vendors who sell these clones, have been in tighter contact with the Clone manufactures in China. The clones have been improving, and with each new improvement a new name is given. It is becoming like the Bible's "begat" story, and with the Vendor's various names tossed in to boot, it has branches upon branches that all trace back to the first clone. With that said, here's a few of the new and improved versions: AGA AGA-T (not bad! but the center tube is chrome over brass and not ss) AGA-W (doesn't have knurling) Chobra (supposed to be a copy of the Cobra lol, but it's still just a copy of the previous listed, but many prefer this to the first clones). The improvements, sadly, are minute. China likes to save their pennies. The newest and next AGA-T-SS is supposed to be ALL SS, but we'll believe it when we see it. Will they toss in some improved insulators?? That MIGHT happen, but... seriously, I doubt it. They will save where they can save and don't much care if we're totally happy or not. You have to research all over the net for McGyver fixes. For instance, on the AGA-T, we have to unstuff a SS cartomiser and use that for the center tube. (and find connectors and o0rings to fit on the ends). The butt plugs from cartos and so forth can be modded for insulators. (see, what I mean? Those are standard okay strength, and the ones in the clones are like squishing a bug awful). Hopefully, by the time the next new and improved clones hit the coops, they will be improved even more. That's a huge repair list, so don't hold your breath. They need to make the wick holes larger and closer to the center post, the center post hole smaller, the insulators stiffer and stronger, the nuts wider, the materials true SS, the airholes lined up with the wick, .... and on and on. It's up to the VENDORS who are reselling these "awesome clones" to insist on corrected features. They are being lazy, and in a hurry, to make money. (they buy them for 7-10 bucks and resell for 20-40 to more). (it goes by size of batches ordered. The more attys ordered, the more the savings for the "vendor". The more money made by the Vendor, the more they're raved about). There ya have it. Oh! DiscountVapers is at least active in getting spare parts, and better spare parts at that. Keep an eye on their new and improved clone parts. In time, these might become workhorses, but it's going to be awhile. (and they'll never be an equal match for the genuine articles). Edited December 8, 2012 by Uma
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