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Varistack/vv350 Hack...


Poppa

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OK, so.. Finally tired of screwing around with my Varistack/vv350 and its stupid tube not fitting my protected 18350's.. I already used a pipe-cutter on the ABS "tube" and soldered a better-quality ground line in, but nothing I have want's to bind with the ABS to form a longer tube, (several varieties of epoxy-putty simply harden and never bind).

Looking around, I recall I've a tiny, attractive psp "power supply" case that is designed for 4xAAA in series..

Anyone have a sensible reason why I can't hack the connectors to provide 2x(2x10440) - 2 pairs in parallel to the vv350 circuitry? I suspect it would be a per-day vape, recharging each night - since I was getting nearly 2 days out of a pair of 18350's before the stupid device started gibbering "LO". These are still "protected" batteries, but at least they fit in a tidy little "boxmod" case.

Worst-case I can see is that the pushbuttons are 90-degrees opposed and don't really apply well to a flattened package. Not a deal-breaker, but irritating.

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You can put batteries in series and parallel and series parallel .I would guesss you could hook them to the circut boards as you are not exceeding the design voltage.I like to run 14500 batteries in parallel to increase the available current flow.Seems to work better for me than increasing voltage.Although the voltage will stay at the higher end longer with two batteries.You might be able to use ABS rated plumbing glue,it should solvent weld ABS to ABS or most other plastics.

Edited by mcquinn
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series & parallel are indeed voltage vs current - I was more concerned about "The earth will explode!" info there ;-) Much more a convenient size than the 18350's.

Well, if there was abs to cement, yes - have it at hand. Issue is the protected cells are each about 3mm longer than the vv350 tube, so my cutting it left a neat gap between top and bottom caps.. Alas, the epoxy-puttys will fill the gap, yet not adhere to the abs. That ship has sailed, and my further examination of the circuits indicates I can get them all unglued and lay them flat, so that too seems Solved.

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As far as I know non protected lithium ion in series =bad ,IMR in series = ok and protected lithium ion in series = ok.Non protected in series with high current drain like with a short or low resistance seems to be the magic formula for really bad.I parallel current would be less through each cell depending on resistance ,so that would lessen the chance for disaster.

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Yeah, I rather expected that. Since I only own protecteds, and the silly pcb itself seems to be protected as well, I think the series-issue is a non-issue.

Somehow, I think the whole affair is a fright-campaign and finger-pointing at idjits.. I can easily imagine unprotected batteries shorting/discharging with much the same result is huge-*** caps, (or - remember the coils behind old tv's? ;-).

Parallel shouldn't be any sort of issue as long as the batteries have the same ratings, afaik: if they are all 350mah, then everyone will be playing well together - mixing say.. 600mah and 300mah in series sounds rather dangerous, although in parallel that too might be legit.

Anyway, I've got 3 holes to align & drill, (CA'd pcb in for alignment/test), and a pile of 10440's to charge up - looking more and more like I'll get it to work properly without calling upon Cthulhu and his minions!

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Began vaping at 1630.. "LO" finally kicked in at 2330: 8 hours of solid chain-vape off three different tanks with 3 differing resistances and between 3.7 and 4.5 volts.

I'm going to call this a complete Win.

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I've just discovered an intriguing 'feature'...

Placing a fresh pair of batts into HALF the bay, I got a 3.0v reading. Umm.. Cool! I can vape on VV on one pair while charging 2-pair, (7.4v)! This makes sense electrically, but I never considered the possibility!

It makes sense, actually: 2 cells is 7.4v, but just the 350mah of either cell!

So cool... ;-)

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