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Helpful Chart For Pairing Atomizer Resistance To Battery Volts


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So I am sure this question has been asked 102933.4 times before, but why do many people prefer high voltage vaping when you can get the same or HIGHER watts out of lower voltage and lower resistance? Warmer vapor possibly? I am still trying to figure out how to use my multimeter I picked up...so sue me.

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So I am sure this question has been asked 102933.4 times before, but why do many people prefer high voltage vaping when you can get the same or HIGHER watts out of lower voltage and lower resistance? Warmer vapor possibly? I am still trying to figure out how to use my multimeter I picked up...so sue me.

battery life maybe?

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Cool chart. Thanks, twelveday! I recently started using a variable voltage unit and I've been winging it so far. This will come in handy for sure, if nothing else, as a basic guideline.

In reply to sasetrase's question:

Higher voltage will give you more vapor - and a warmer vapor, but you really need to match up the right atomizer/cartomizer for the voltage you’re using to get good results.

But I guess what you really wanna know is if standard 3.7 volt e-cigs (like eGo, KGO, etc) with low resistance atomizers are equivalent to a higher voltage mod with a higher resistance atomizer – and the answer is no. It seems like it would be the same, in theory, but I’m not an expert on the technical side, and I don’t understand why it works like that, but the higher voltage will produce more vapor and warmer vapor than a 3.7volt e-cig using low resistance atomizers or cartomizers.

On the negative side, you’ll use more e-liquid with higher voltage and some e-liquids taste better than others at high voltage - and again, the amount of atomizer resistance comes into play with the flavor aspect as well as the throat hit & vapor production. Okay, I think I'll stop now that I've made it totally confusing:)

Hope this helped a little anyway. BTW, I've been an avid vaper for over 2 years, been butt-free for over 2 years after a 25 year habit, and I've always been content with eGo type batteries matched up with the right atomizers & cartomizers, so you don't necessarily have to go high voltage.

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So I am sure this question has been asked 102933.4 times before, but why do many people prefer high voltage vaping when you can get the same or HIGHER watts out of lower voltage and lower resistance? Warmer vapor possibly? I am still trying to figure out how to use my multimeter I picked up...so sue me.

Its strange but right now i am using

3ohm carto @ 4.8 volts = 8 watts

How ever when i use a 1.5ohm Atty on my alpha i am getting roughly 11 watts

The 3ohm on the variable voltage just feels better. Bette flavor, warmer vapor, better throat hit. I can't eplain it but that's just how it works.

sent from my Ice Cream Sandwiched Gtablet

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Figures that I would be forced by SCIENCE to buy more mods...SCIENCE IS THE BANE OF MY EXISTENCE!

Not really, but thanks a lot for the input safervapers and bobthesalesclerk. The experiences are what really help me understand. It figures that there is more to the flavor output than just wattage...durn.

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Great OP and have used a similar chart for reference (though not as detailed as this one).

I know there are those who will differ greatly, but I've stuck with single battery 3.7 volts for reasons already mentioned. It does the job and my goal was to quit the analogs for good. I could now quit vaping much easier, if need be. If one wants a hotter vape or more kick.....just add a 1.5 carto to a 3.7 device and let her rip.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's a fair guide, but a bit on the cautious side...

I agree, a VERY conservative chart. I’ve seen most people say to stay around 10 watts (as apposed to 8.5 on the above chart) The Lava Tube has a 10 watt limit. Most hard core modders out there go to 15 watts with higher voltage. (Note I’ve been using my 1.7 ohm cartos at 4.1/4.2 volts for almost a month now, which is 9/10 watts, and has not shorten the life of the cartos one bit) IMHO, 8.5watts is a little low.

Below is another useful and similar chart I’ve been using.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlZnGjZRjO_UdGo3VVlnVHY0VExZLVd5aDkwUEJEZXc#gid=1

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This is great information for vapers that don't have a clue when it comes to pairing the right atty/carto to a device. I've seen so many people questioning why their setup isn't producing for them, etc... and more often than not it's because they are pairing the wrong parts. People really do need to know what the are buying and why... it makes vaping much more successful in the long run !! Good find/sticky!

I'm currently at 4.3v with a 2.0ohm (HH357) atty... putting out ~ 9.2 watts. So, yes the chart does err on the side of caution... but I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing for those just starting out.

Edited by DAYVAPE
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  • 6 months later...

unled66.jpg

I found this image while i was surfing the net trying to find good pairings with my 3.7v and 5v ecigs. Hopefully it can help someone else as well

unled66.jpg

I found this image while i was surfing the net trying to find good pairings with my 3.7v and 5v ecigs. Hopefully it can help someone else as well

I wish I understood what the chart meant. So what would be best for an ego battery 650mah?

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I wish I understood what the chart meant. So what would be best for an ego battery 650mah?

1. Find your battery's voltage on the top row.

2. Pick a number in the body of the chart between 4 and 8.5 (the higher the number, the hotter the vapor).

3. Find the resistance level in the column on the left side that lines up with steps 1 and 2.

4. Order an atty/carto/tank with that resistance.

5. Wait on the mailman.

6. Vape

7. Repeat steps 4 - 6 when it dies.

Some juices taste better at higher power (wattage), and some juices taste better at lower power. Some people like a hotter vapor than others. Since taste is in the mouth of the beholder, I'm afraid that a little trial and error will be necessary. I'd start with around 6.5 watts and adjust to your individual liking.

may help (or frustrate the **** out of you...not sure). :wallbash:

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  • 1 year later...

The guide that came with my Protank II works for me. I use variable voltage and my husband doesn't. His Protank works great with the coil sizes it comes with, so he sticks to the lower resistance coils. A 1.8 coil burns up in my Vision Spinner because it's designed for 3.1-3.3V. I get the best flavor, vapor and draw at 4.1-4.3V and the Protank guide lists a 2.8 ohm coil as my suitable Voltage to different Resistance. I haven't had a burnt coil since I switched to the 2.8 ohm. My husband uses a simple Ego-T and Ego-C, gets a perfect hit with good vapor but we vape different juice with mine tending to be thicker. This is the suitable Resistance to Voltage that Protank suggests: 'Resistance' 1.7-1.9 Ohms to 'Voltage' 3.1-3.3V, ''2.1-2.3 Ohms to ''3.4-3.7V, ''2.4-2.6 Ohms to ''3.8-4.1V, ''2.6-3.0 Ohms to ''4.2-4.5V.

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  • 1 year later...

Here's some I made for the MVP... but the principal is the same, all based on Ohm's Law and the perceived sweet-spot (in green).  The numbers in red are outside operating-range of the MVP, but other devices may be capable of wider range (like the IPV-mini, iStick, Cloupor-minis, etc. etc. )

 

VoltageLimitationGraph2_zpsdda3df38.jpg

 

VoltageChart_zps797c8406.jpg

 

WattageChart_zpseb260e53.jpg

 

WattageRangeCurveGraph_zps733b9ff0.jpg

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