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Posted

pics of mine are in pic topic, no were as nice as yours. no lathe harbor fright may have one

I looked at the categories but didn't find it. Do you have a link I am rather forum retarded :)

I have read that the harbor freight lathes or not very good although I have not tried them. The jet and the delta lathes are supposed to be much better and only a little more money. I have used both jet and delta with good results. If you are interested in a CA finish a variable speed lathe is really nice to have but the delta is around $600. You might be able to get a non variable speed jet or a delta used. Then get the variable speed motor from pen state which is about $100. These motors are not very strong but for small spindle work they get good reviews. I am currently building one of these to save money.

The redwood burl is gorgeous!!!

good god dude, beautiful work

Thanks

Posted (edited)

here they are still your are more superior to these. i did look at a couple at harbor friet one seems like it might be up to the task and at 120 for the thing cant beat it. can always return it if its crap.

IMG_20120227_165436.jpg

Edited by mega
Posted

here they are still your are more superior to these. i did look at a couple at harbor friet one seems like it might be up to the task and at 120 for the thing cant beat it. can always return it if its crap.

IMG_20120227_165436.jpg

Those are cool. Really like the spider.

Were they done on a lathe or out of a piece of dowel?

Posted

dowel since no lathe yet. now i got an excuse for a new tool lol.

Posted

dowel since no lathe yet. now i got an excuse for a new tool lol.

I can always find a excuse to buy tools. My problem is usually finding the money to buy tools.

Posted

$270.00 of wood arrived today. I can't wait to start turning it.

The picture

IMG_3451.JPG

List of wood to go with the picture

#FRS31 C - Size: 1 1/8" sq x 6" $14.00 Black/Red Double Dye Box Elder Burl

#FRS39 D - Size: 1 1/8" sq x 6" $12.00 Brown Mallee Burl

#KC66B - Box Elder Burl (Brown) Size: 1 1/2"sq x 11 1/2" $40.00

#KC67H- Buckeye Burl (Brown) Size: 1 1/2"sq x 6 1/2" $23.00

#KC61C - Box Elder Burl (Black/Gold) Size: 1 1/2"sq x 3" $12.50

#KC61E - Box Elder Burl (Black/Gold) Size: 1 3/4"sq x 3 1/4" $14.00

#KC74D - Bigleaf Maple Burl (Blue) Size: 1 5/8"sq x 3" $10.00

#KC74E - Bigleaf Maple Burl (Blue) Size: 1 5/8"sq x 3" $10.00

#KC96D Tasmanian Eucalyptus Burl Size: 1 5/8"sq x 3 1/2" $14.00 each

#KC104B - Bigleaf Maple Burl Size: 1 1/2" sq x 2 3/4" $8.00 ea

Pen Blanks

2@ Box Elder Burl - Burgundy Dyed (Stabilized) Size: 7/8 x 1 x 5 1/4" Price: $5.80 each

1@ Laos Amboyna Burl - AAA Grade The best there is! Size: 7/8 x 7/8 x 5 1/2" Price: $10.00 each stabilized

1@ Whitetop Burl Size: 7/8 x 7/8 x 5 1/4" Price: $5.00 each

1@ Australian Lace She Size: 7/8 x 7/8 x 5 1/2" Price: $4.50 each

3@ Spalted Tasmanian Sassafras Burl - Stabilized Size: 1 x 1 x 5 1/4" Price: $6.50 each

3@ Jumbo Black Ash Burl - Stabilized Size: 1 x 1 x 5 1/2" Price: $7.50 each

2@ Australian Red Mallee Burl Size: 7/8 x 7/8 x 5 1/4" Price: $4.00 each

2@ Masur Birch Size: 1 x 1 x 5 1/2" Price: $5.00 each

Posted

you dont have to tell me but you seem to have the proper tools whats the exact mesurment of a epower tube. diamiter wise. i figure you prolly have the clamp measuring device. i think called a micrometer or something lol.

Posted

you dont have to tell me but you seem to have the proper tools whats the exact mesurment of a epower tube. diamiter wise. i figure you prolly have the clamp measuring device. i think called a micrometer or something lol.

I have all of that info at my fathers house. I will be happy to post them for you on Friday. I found that matching the diameter of the tube to the diameter of the drill bit did not work how I wanted. For the tube I ended up using a Forstner drill bit. It was either 5/8 or 11/16 but I am not really sure which one. I am sure a standard bit would also work, it is just what I had.

I can't remember what the two bits for the cone were, but I will post that on Friday as well.

On the e-power tube the top and bottom caps are pressed into the tube. I used a smaller diameter brass tube to get them out. My method was not elegant.

I held the tube in my hand and placed the brass tube inside the epower tube on the lip of the cap. Then I hit the brass tube on the ground. I then realigned the brass tube on the lip and hit the ground again. You have to place the brass bar on the lip of the cap. If you just put it on the flat of the cap it will dint up the bottom of the cap really bad. I ruined 1 bottom cap this way :)

To get the ring out of the cone I took 2 pairs of needle noose pliers and tore the sheet metal working my way toward the ring. A vise and the brass tube didn't work.

Hope this helps

Lewis

Posted

instead of making a handle for an empower do you have enough electrical know how on soldering a button and just making a battery compartment with a 510 connection ?

maybe you and Mega should go into business if you can't lol. you turn the wood on the lathe and Mega puts on the button and electrical components.

Posted (edited)

kinda like this bob? its a pass thru with a epower switch connector 510

IMG_20120227_085329.jpg

Edited by mega
Posted

it would work good with that battery but oanything over 5 volt idk. i have 5 volts going to it and it will read 4.1 at switch unloaded, also on a usb charger it wont fire, not enough mah or amps. this i need to work out bugs for another passthru with this switch, but i am kinda thinking of doing a wooded roughstack type device. but since the accident all my money needs to be set aside for the new car.

Posted (edited)

can you get it at radio shack?

You can't get the 18650 sized ones. Electronicstix.com has them but you need a special charger. They also have 14650 sized. Very low on the mah though. The 18650 is only 600 and the 14650 is a pathetic 400mAh.

I would still rather get 6 hours of 5 volt vaping than 2 days of 3.7 volt vaping :)

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

Edited by bobthesalesclerk
Posted

and we know stacking is bad. cuz i was thinking cr123's

Posted

well if i come accross some cr123's ill make a 5v mod outta wood in roughstack form. this would look sick in that redwood.

maxi-roughstack-v2-e-cig-e-cig-e-cigarette-e-cigarette-1108-19-mandrakefx@3.jpg

Posted

So this is where you hang out eh. I'm sure looking forward to getting my Redwood Burl e-power!

I hunted you down. :detective:

Darn stalkers :)

I mean thank you for the purchase!

I am sure you love it. It came out really well!

Also there is information that hasn't been added to the site yet that you should be aware of.

Description:

The wood has been hand turned on a lathe and has been sanded down to 12000 grit. A Minimum of ten coats of ca glue have been applied. The finish has been sanded to 12000 grit and buffed with white diamond. Each piece of wood takes ~1.25 hours to complete about 1/2 of this time is spent on just the finish. Please be aware that some units have more than one piece. Once complete the wood looks like it has been dipped in glass.

About CA Finish:

CA(cyanoacrylate) is an acrylic resin. It is commonly known as Supper Glue or Crazy Glue. It is currently the nicest and most durable finish that I can apply in a cost effective way.

When CA is used as a finish it is very durable against friction from soft objects such as skin and cloth. Your fingers alone will rub off or dull many finishes over time. A CA finish will generally out last the plated finish on metal parts that are connected to the wood.

The downside to a CA finish is that it is not impact resistant. It has characteristics that are similar to lacquer. When a CA finish is hit by a hard object or dropped on a hard object it is common for the finish to chip or fog over. When hard objects rub against the CA finish scratches can occur. Because of the glass like finish scratches and chips will show up really well. If the finish fogs over you will probably not even be able to see the wood under the finish.

My CA finish is ruined:

All hope is not lost. I can remove the old finish and apply a new finish for a little over $10 + shipping.(Don't have exact price yet) If the wood itself is damaged I may or may not be able to fix it. Look for the refinish option on this site. If you can not find it please contact Erik. These items take me a long time to make and cost you a lot of money. This service is offered because I want your finish to look beautiful and for you to enjoy it.

Cleaning:

I just use a clean soft dry cloth. Damp cloths can also be used but dry is recommended.

Chemical cleaners are not needed or recommended.

Do not use any chemicals that will damage plastic, such as paint thinner, lacquer thinner, acetone or goof-off

How to protect you finish:

Dropping is the number one cause of damage. Desk drawers and purses also take their toll on the finish.

Do you want your finish to stay perfect? When not in use put it in the felt sleeve that came with it.

Warranty:

There is none.

This is functional art. It is fragile and can be damaged easily. Scratches, dings, chips and fogging of the finish are common when this product is abused. If there is damage when you receive your product it was caused in shipping. I recommend paying the few extra dollars and having your package insured. Everything that I send to Erik is insured because these are fragile.

I first posted here and not on the ECF. I went on the ECF to ask Erik about getting some XL3 tubes and now he is selling my wood mods.

It is a nicer here. I pmed Christopher about what I was doing after hearing about the ECF banning chopper. He said that everything I am doing is fine here. I am sure the ECF will eventually ban me for not giving them the $50 a year just because I have a hobby, but I am alright with it.

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