Okay first before I change all your lives with this tank you have to make sure the bottom side of your deck say v1.1. If so then I can show you the way.
I'm going to post this wick tutorial but you have to promise to not argue about it. I spent weeks in this and it's perfect. Don't believe what others (dumb YouTubers) have been telling you. Follow this to the T and you will wick great wicks, and your liquid will hold strong. Prom prom.
1. You need to wick your coils very hard and tight. Don't argue and just trust me. This applies to any and all rebuildables. Tired of dripping every third pull? Wick more. You should literally have to hold your coil so the cotton does not move your wraps or destroy your coil. Forget what you've been taught about wicking. It's not "just loose enough to move your cotton around."
2. Fluff the **** out of the cotton with a small precision flathead screwdriver. I mean really rake the cotton. As you can see in the first and second picture it needs to have a lot of fibers removed to thin out the cotton.
3. Now we need to trim away our kylins cotton angel wings so it can be the non leaking, flavor blasting, perfect wicking devil, it's made to be. In picture three we can see this leaves us with some extra pointy floofs on the corner of our wick. These gotta go. So we trim those off not in necessarily a "V" pattern, but ever so slightly as you can see in picture four.
4. So now we need to make sure the cotton isn't too long. We want the cotton to be just a bit past the juice port edge. You can observe this in picture 5.
5. Next we will begin to tuck the cotton into the juice port. Slow, gentle, and steady are the adjectives here. It should go in easy. Do not jam it in. If you have to apply a little bit of force then start over cause you aren't following directions. We're just simply placing the cotton gently inside the port. If your cotton goes all the way down into the port then you did not follow directions and need to trim your cotton shorter. You must have the grub screws clearly visible as seen in picture six.
6. Let's juice this ***** up. Standard stuff here. The only difference here is we need to do a bit of work with the cotton and the cotton in the juice well. To start don't smash or make the cotton collapse. Just gently apply juice and let the cotton absorb it. Then we will focus on the cotton in the well. We will take our small flathead screw driver and very gently push our saturated cotton to be level with the top of the juice well opening. This is shown in picture seven. Please note that even that little bit of cotton you see should be hidden as much as you can directly behind and in line with the top of the juice port.
7. Now we are going to do a full quality assurance check. As seen in picture eight make sure our cotton is not flattened, collapsed in the coil, and most importantly it fully fills the juice port it sits in. We cannot have any openings between the cotton or wall of the juice well. This will cause leaking and will be a build error and not a device error. Quickly off topic here but the kylin v1.1 has no device errors, only build errors thanks to all the terrible build tutorials on YouTube. (I like you bogan, but you do not know how to wick the kylin) Anyway, just make sure it looks like the picture.
8. So no pictures for this part cause if you need one set the kylin down and use something else. When filling the tank the juice port is closed. Do it now. Fill her up. Once full we will screw on the top cap holding just the top cap. When it starts to turn and open the juice ports it's tight enough.
9. That's it. We're done. She's perfect now.
Some things I want to say:
I have chain Vaped the kylin at around 150 watts on a .2 10 times back to back and it never slowed down. Do this build and it will work perfectly for you. Like I said earlier I'm not gonna argue anything here. I don't need to validate my claims because I know it works. I use it. Have had no leaking whatsoever,(haven't had any perfecting this build either)and absolutely nothing but fully saturated, fully flavorful vapes with this device. I have shown this build exclusively to a vaping discord I am in and every single kylin owner that has tried it has put their kylin back into daily rotation, and made them fall in love with it. So if you don't believe it will work or whatever, then just move on.
For the ones that do try the build, let me know what you think, and if you have any questions at all let me know and I will answer every question anyone willing to try the build has. I just simply ask to do as I instruct, don't ask why, and don't argue points. I promise you it will work.
What do you have to lose? A kylin you haven't been using anyway, or a kylin that will absolutely blow your mind with it's vape quality. You decide.
I also want to say that even with this build there are cons to this device. If you build wrong or wick wrong, the chimney is a perfect boiled vape juice cannon aimed right at your taste meat and it will BBQ it for fun. Ouch. Sometimes even with this build the vacuum can kinda fail and you will notice a drop off in saturation of the wick. Here's the fix: simply leave your juice port open, and begin to unscrew the top cap slowly. Watch as you unscrew your juice ports open wide and guzzle juice faster than Miley Cyrus can chug a 40oz. After about three chugs slap her back just tight enough to start to close the juice ports like earlier and then use the glass to make a full 180 return to open juice ports.
If you have any other quirks or issues with the kylin I am also willing to help fix any other problems you have.
Oh and lastly, please don't mistake e liquid on the top of your mod or a layer of eliquid caught between your 510 and deck as leaking. The airflow ports at the bottom will condensate juice and it will pool up in these areas. A small price to pay for a cheap RTA that performs like the big dogs.
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