Walt

Does it look like this?

I think we're getting closer. All of the battery models have names like, Pico, Ikon, IJust, ICare, Istick, just like your tank is a Melo 2. You could also post a picture.

First, Welcome to Vapor Talk!!! Please start with telling us what your Melo 2 is working on e.g. the name or model of the mod. This will help us explain things in terms you can relate to per what you are using.

Real good thinkin. I'll play with that too. Right now it seems like the vapor wants to go under the dashboard. I wondering if the crazy thing is recycling the air? I have it set to outside air though.

Lol, Sorry, didn't mean to start a work-a-thon. I'm now wondering if I have weird airflow or something in the car. Seems like its hazed over just after a few puffs. I'll keep trying different things. It just bugs me.

Another thing I want to try is plain old cotton rags. I have been using microfiber but they are polyester and I wonder if that is part of the smearing instead of removing the stuff.

Thank you! I'm willing to try most anything. This is getting very annoying.

Of oncoming traffic. I can't get the film off my windshield! Tried all kinds of window cleaner, microfiber and paper towel, even massive amounts of water. The film gets diluted but never goes away. It seems like I just think about vaping in the car and the film starts condensing on the windshield. My rear windshield looks like someone smeared Vaseline on it.

I'll be there at 6!

Welcome! Glad you joined!

I may fix the audio. I had a tech hell day trying to get the thing finished. Rendering the video completely crashed my primary machine. I'm talking complete instant power off crash. Something I can address later when I have more time. Finally got everything transferred to a laptop and it managed to render the file. Right at the moment I'm just glad to have it posted on YouTube keeping my promise. As far as the "next" idea, I'll have to think about that a bit. I turned my poor doghouse upside down for about three days doing this thing. Just had to give it a shot and see what it was like. The child in me came up with the blastisimo intro and outro, lol.

Awe, Your just sayin that..... but...... Thanks!!!

Sent from Eleaf for review. This was a hoot to do.

If you're interested in electricity/electronics, you can get a much more realistic impression of what these devices will and can do if you double check the marketing claims with your own calculations. A good example are the mods that will allow the device to fire down to .05Ω in temp control. Some of those mods cap the wattage available setting far below the max power of the mod when in TC. Some appear to be relying on the fact that the available wattage setting will only be applied for a very short period of time at the beginning of the vape and that the power needed to sustain vaping temperatures available in TC is greatly diminished. There are some manufacturers that just plain worry me. They say to use some unobtainable battery that will supply 35A continuous. Looking at safety in terms of statistics only, it is very rare to see a regulated mod having a catastrophic failure, That's good news obviously but I'm just not satisfied with that form of analysis. I'm guess I'm probably kinda "down the middle" at least to some extent. I do believe at some point technical minutia becomes meaningless. Carrying resistance measurements to six significant digits is picking the white stuff out of chicken ****. But the difference between .1Ω and .05Ω is double the amperage applied. Point being if you are working around .75Ω, a .05Ω difference is not going to be significant. If you are working around .1Ω it's a totally different story.

Alright Tam! Glad you're on guard. I totally missed that.

My vote would for the eleaf Invoke.

Each battery would be providing half of the required amperage in terms of mah but the full amperage is running through both batteries. Think of it as a single, two cell battery providing 7.2V @ 15.2A. And yes, you are good to go!

Pretty much anything you like with that mod and those batteries. If the build is to low in resistance the mod will tell you so. A regulated mod uses a DC to DC converter which to a great degree isolates the batteries from the resistance of the coil. I think it's easiest to think of with the converter in the middle of the supply side with the batteries and the demand side with the coil. On the demand side the mod will adjust the voltage to whatever is necessary to achieve the power setting you have chosen. On the supply side the voltage is whatever the two batteries are putting out in series. The amperage demanded on the supply side is simply the chosen power setting in watts divided by the voltage the batteries are achieving with a bit of loss due to the converter. Here is an example: You are using a 0.15Ω coil and you have the mod set to 150 Watts. For this example I'm going to be generous and say that the converter is 95% efficient. You are now asking the supply or battery side to provide 157 Watts. You have been vaping for a bit and your batteries are not achieving 3.5V each. In series they are providing 7V. 157Watts/7V = 22.4A that the batteries must provide. That 22.4 amps must run through both batteries as they are in series so each battery should have a CDR or continuous discharge rate of at least 22.4A. What will your mod do if you are only using batteries that provide 18A? Depends on the mod. Some will throttle down the voltage on the demand side and provide less power than what you are asking for. Some mods will tell you that you have insufficient power available for the setting. Some mods will ignore the condition as the manufacturer has specified the use of 35A batteries which btw we all know do not exist. So what happens if the condition is ignored? If you are vaping every 30 seconds on new batteries you will probably not notice a difference. If you are chain vaping like crazy on an older set of batteries, well, I don't know. The potential for a problem exists. From everything I have read and heard, the VooPoo has a decent chipset. It should provide adequate protection. It is however always good to understand what is going on in a mod and not just use any old battery expecting the mod to compensate.

Well then, I can't wait to see the next one because this one looks pretty sharp to me. I dare say you're getting good at this.

Lookin Good!!!

Nothing stupid there at all. Sounds like an excellent build. Can't wait to see the pictures! And ya, this place is a little quiet especially during nice weather when folks can be out and doing other things. I can assure you however, the quality of the folks here is tops!

For safety it is best to use 4.2V as that will cause the highest current draw. It is true as you battery is used the voltage decreases and then so does the demand for amperage, but to be safe 4.2V will give you worst out case. You are drawing right at 21A with the 4.2V so you are right on the edge with a 2A overhead. I'm gonna stick my neck out a little and say you're safe, especially since you have already went to quite a bit of effort researching. Just always stay alert and notice if things are starting to get hot. I usually shoot for between .25 and .3 using simple wire and can get a very good vape.

Welcome to the forum! Please forgive me if you are on top of everything I am about to write but the following is the obligatory safety intro to mech mod building, lol. Or at least everything I can think of right now. Google "Battery Mooch" and to find charts he has posted on vaping batteries. 18650 batteries are rarely rated accurately. Battery Mooch tests batteries specifically for vaping and publishes the CDR or continuous discharge rate for batteries. Use the CDR value when calculating your builds and leave a little "head room". In other words if the CDR is 20A build safe for say 18A. When using ohms law to calculate your amp draw use the max battery voltage of 4.2 volts to make your calculations. Google and use "steam engine wire wizard" to design your builds. This will help greatly in coming up with the right resistance the first time. Inspect your batteries well. No rips, tears, degradation of the wrap or positive post insulator. Use fresh high drain batteries as specification by Battery Mooch. Always use a resistance meter and double check the resistance of you atty fully assembled to ensure the proper desired resistance. Use common sense when vaping a mech mod. If it starts getting hot. Put it down. Batteries do not explode but if they go into thermal run away they will outgas. They will do this at an extremely rapid rate. Especially tube mech mods are prone to not adequately vent if a battery goes into thermal run away and the mod will "blow apart". In reality there is little difference between blowing apart and blowing up. Pieces/parts will fly with great force causing damage to humans. The heat involved in the experience is also intense again causing damage to humans. A hint on building for mech mods. Start using simple round wire. Simple wire has the less mass than exotic coils and will heat faster and with less power applied. Once you get the hang of building for a mech, there is plenty of time to play with different wire configurations. Good luck! Looks like a beautiful mod!

Ok, looks like they make a bunch of coils for that tank. A T6, T8, T10, and Q4. Looks like the T8, T10, and Q4 are going to produce the most fog. You can start around 80 Watts with any of those. So the drill is to try 80, then 85, then 90,.... until your vape starts dying out. You know, that singeing cotton flavor. At some point in the drill you will max out your vapor production.

What are you using for an atty?