FXRich

From what I read in your original post you use the V12 as with any of the beast tanks from what I have heard are not designed to be used with TC they have kanthal coils, and probably too many coils for TC to properly function.

Probably the best way to clean a tank is to use hot water in a sonic cleaner (if you have access to one). I would not recommend the use of a sonic cleaner if you have a painted tank, it removed the paint from one of my tanks.

I have a couple of subvods, it happens to me sometimes when I screw the tank on too tight, when I back it off a little it works fine. I think it has to do with the factory coils varying in length, some being a little longer than others.

I don't have a V12, but the Subtank minis that I usually use have a airflow that is pretty wide open, there are many tanks that have a lot of airflow and everyone has their own favorite. RTA, and RDA tanks have the most open airflow in my opinion, but they also require you to build your own coils, or buy pre made coils that you just replace.

I think Earthling was right about adding a few drops of water to the tank. Over a year ago I started to mix a Cherry Cheesecake juice that I really liked, on a good day I could get maybe 2 tanks on a coil (subtank mini with RBA), so I put the recipe on the back burner. A few months ago I started making it again, but instead of using a 70%VG/30%PG ratio I used a 70%VG/20%PG/10% distilled water mix, now I get 4 - 5 tanks on a coil. Can't say for sure why a little water will make the coil last longer, but it does.

Could be a bad charging cable, or possibly your batteries might not be making contact (juice might cause this) Your best option in my opinion is to take the batteries out, and charge them with a external charger, or maybe try a different charging cable if you have one.

You didn't say why you want 70/30 instead of 80/20. I suspect it is because of poor wicking, you could either add 10% more PG, or you could add 5% distilled water either way it would thin the juice without muting the flavor much. The reason I stated 5% water instead of 10% is because water thins it more than PG.

From what I have read on the subject distilled water is a very poor conductor of electricity, some sources even say distilled water won't conduct electricity. Supposedly its the minerals dissolved in water that conduct electricity.

I notice sometimes vape temp can be a result of the juice that is being vaped. Some flavors like it hotter than others, and I opt to use water instead of extra PG which I think lowers the temp needed to vape. As an example my 70/30 juice consists of 70% VG 20% PG (flavor), and 10% distilled water. I did notice on my dripbox that if the connection isn't good between the tank and pin juice causes the resistance to change, not very much but enough. Usually I go through 2 7ml bottles before I charge the batteries.

So how do the two squonk boxes compare, I only have the 160 dripbox, and run the SS TC at 360 - 370 and get the vape that I want. I noticed that all my kanger TC mods run the best at that temp.

I find that the darker juices kill coils faster than the lighter juices, in my opinion VG/PG ratio has little to do with how long a coil lasts, but the addition of water seems to make the coils last longer. If you ever decide to flavor your juice, I know someone who has a reaction to PG so she mixes her own using extracts from the grocery store, some extracts contain PG so she has to read the labels really good, but it seems to work for her.

Got to keep trying different coils until you find the best one for you. The only kanthal I tried using the subtank mini RBA was 26 g I think I tried 5 wraps around 3mm, can't remember what the ohms was, but it wasn't that great so I went to 28g SS 316, and got what I wanted. The only thing I use kanthal for now is rebuilding OCC coils, and it works well for that. Another difference is I haven't used cotton for over a year now, I use rayon (cellucotton), other people will probably disagree with me, but I think it has a cleaner taste, wicks better, and doesn't taste as nasty if you burn it.

If you want a 10mg final result you will need to add 10 ml of 100mg base, there are non PG flavorings available that use a water/alcohol base. I use 10% distilled water in my recipes, we have a well, and I'm not sure whats in it so I don't use it. Most city tap water has chemicals in it that probably are not good to vape. Distilled water only costs about $1 per gallon, and has nothing in it but pure water.

The most common juice sold is around a 50/50 mix, which doesn't give as much vapor as a higher VG juice. From what I hear a baby beast can handle a 80% VG or better mix.

Some stoves use SS heating elements, and it doesn't bother them when they turn black, they work for years that way. I have replaced the pipes on my bike with SS pipes, and they haven't turned black, but they are probably a different SS alloy, and they don't get as hot as a heating coil.

High VG content will usually give more vapor, but that depends on the tank you have, and what coils you use. Some coils have a problem wicking high VG juice, I use a 70VG 30PG mix and get thick enough clouds for me, some people use 80-85% VG.

There is one thing I don't like about using SS 316, after it gets hot it turns black, but it still works the same as when its bright and shiny. I guess its just me liking it to stay new looking. Even after running it through the sonic cleaner it still stays black.

When I rebuild a Subtank mini RBA I use 6 wraps of 28g SS 316, and get about .7 ohm coils, so far that has worked the best for me using TC.

You will probably get about 1 ohm, the legs are shorter on the RBA deck.

I use 4 wraps of 28g kanthal around 3mm when I build replacement coils for my kanger OCC coils, and get about1.2 ohms, but the legs are pretty long, depends on leg length. That's with a spaced coil.

I also have a 50w Kanger that hasn't lost any paint except on the bottom (it is black) the newer kanger 75w and 120w have both lost paint, the rest are SS or polished metal of some kind, and still look like I just took them out of the box.

That is the main reason I have only bought unpainted mods in the last few years. In my opinion about the only paint that would hold up to the use that a mod gets is to get it powder coated, and that would require complete disassembly, powder coating is an expensive process, may be cheaper to buy a new mod. I learned to live with the mods I have that the paint came off.

I use a modified RTA on top of my squonker, when I squeeze the bottle it fills the tank on the RTA. Kind of defeats the purpose of the idea, but I like it, and it works for me.

Been my experience the RDAs with bottom air tend to leak if squonked too much, tried the exact same setup, except the mod was different, Juice leaked out the air intake slots, in my opinion tanks with the air intake at the top work much better for squonking.

My phone costs me $17 and change every month for 300 minutes, I rarely use over 100 minutes a month, and they carry over a certain amount. Just have it for emergencies and stuff like that, I even ignore texts.