FXRich

Electric heating elements for appliances are generally made from 304, 316, or 321 stainless steel, some are coated some are not. I guess if its good enough for the oven it will probably work fine for vaping. I have only been using 316l in watt mode, and it seems to work pretty good so far, I will get a TC mod eventually that has SS mode for TC.

A regular vape shop should be more knowledgeable about what you need, but sometimes they can get spendy, they usually have better juice too.

Your local vape shop could probably show you a good way to wick your RBA, and they could even recoil it for you if they wanted to. The coil that comes with it aren't very good coils.

When I started to vape I was at 18mg, but that was 2 1/2 years ago, before subtanks. Back then it was ego batteries and pro tanks, now with Subtanks I'm down to 6mg sometimes 4mg. Depending on my juice. I have been debating on mixing some 0mg juice to see if I really need nicotine, but if I don't I'm going to keep vaping anyway because I like it.

If you look for "Kanger Subtank mini RBA rebuild" there should be plenty of posts, some very instructive.

I was reading the same thing and it looks like you will be limited to a 14mm tank. And there was no mention of variable voltage or wattage. A 14mm tank is a tank the size of a KPT mini, not much juice capacity 1.8 I believe.

About that RBA, I use a RBA exclusively in all my Subtanks, the trick is to get the wick just right, too loose and you won't get enough juice on the coil, too tight and you can cut off the flow of juice. Either way you get a burnt taste. There are numerous videos on the net that shows how to do it. After you get the RBA wicking down pat you can save a lot of money by not buying coils.

PG and VG don't evaporate very well at room temperature, I have taken coils out and forgot them for a few days and they stay wet, so your container don't have to be air tight. Another thing to keep in mind is airflow, if you don't have enough air flowing across the coil to cool it you will have a harsh vape at higher wattage. I vape a .5 coil in a subtank mini at 10 - 12 watts depending on the juice

It would be my guess a lot of people here use the istick, I don't use one but would probably buy one if they didn't have built in internal batteries. I like to be able to change the battery.

Got the prize I won from Gearbest today. A Kanger Subtank Nano Kit, they didn't have a black one so I got the purple one. To make a long story short I had a choice whether to give it to the other half or save it for bike ridding next summer, an easy choice to make. Not much to say about it but its like the Subtank mini kit but no RBA and its smaller, and its purple.

Technology is moving pretty fast, like computers in the 80s and 90s, you could buy a new computer and before you got it home it was obsolete. I think the same thing is happening to vaping technology right now. might be next year the DNA might be obsolete. But I'm like you I have no use for a 100w mod much less a 200w mod. I have noticed when SS 316l is dry burned the ohms change from 0.5 to 0.7 and I don't even get it red hot. just until it starts to change color, and I only do it on a new coil to make sure its clean, I only use 7watts when I do it.

I didn't really want to bring up a different mod, but I have been looking at the new Kanger Kbox 75 TC due out after the first of the year. Its supposed to use Ti Infineon chips made in USA, and its TC function is good for Ni200, Ti, SS, and NiCr. It uses a single 18650 and is about the same size as the VTC mini. They are also coming out with a 120w, and 200w version that uses 2 18650 batteries, which I don't care for because of the size.

http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp# I guess SS 430 is usable for TC, but from what I hear the mods that will do SS are set up for a 316l curve. If you go to steam you can download the right TC curve for a DNA 200.

430 has a lower resistance than 316l and looks like it may not be suitable for TC because its electrical resistance doesn't change much with heat. I'm leaning towards SS 416 for vaping because it can be used for TC and wattage mode. What probably makes 316 usable for TC is the nickel content.

0.32 mm is 28 gauge 0.40 mm is 26 gauge a 5/4 wrap on 3mm gives me a 0.5 ohm coil, works really good in my Kanger RBA heads.

You will like SS 316L wire, I have been using it a little over a week now. Its a little softer than Kanthal, but not near as soft as Ni200 its very easy to work with. The only time I dry burn it is when I build a new coil, and then just long enough so it quits smoking, not red hot. The nice thing about SS 316L is you can use it for TC and also dry burn if you want, Ni and Ti should not be dry burned. I only have 28g SS 316L and really like it, easy to work with and no taste. I may start using it exclusively.

You may have signatures turned off in your profile, if that is the case you will not see the counters in the posts, the reason I know this is I just turned mine off and can't see the counters now. Turned it back on now I can see counters.

That's weird, I can double click on Tams banner and it brings up the option to add a banner to my posts but when I try doing the same on earthling's it doesn't work. I guess earthling isn't important enough. Some work and some don't

It might be a bad coil, the coils that come with tanks are sometimes bad.

I have been trying SS416l 28 g the past few days. I made a .5ohm coil for my Subtank RBA, it vapes really good, and good flavor. So far I haven't seen a downside to it. I normally don't dry burn but I did it out of curiosity, when I did I noticed the resistance went from .5 to .7 but after it cooled it went back down to .5 I guess that's why it can be used for TC. It seems to be easier to work with than Kanthal, not very springy at all. I might start using it exclusively because it can be used for power mode or TC mode.

Update I milled the juice channels larger in 1 RBA and made no difference. After studying it for awhile I discovered the way the RBA sat in the base it cut off most of the juice flow to the bottom of the RBA where the channels start. But they work fine in a Subtank mini, so I guess I have more RBAs for my subtanks but none for my Nano. I'll just have to keep rebuilding the stock horizontal coils for the Nanos.

As you get more flavors you will experiment more. Last week I ran out of one of the flavors I vape, I had a orange cream that I added a little extra orange to because I liked dreamsicle bars. To substitute I mixed regular orange with vanilla custard and it tasted better than the orange cream I used before. I usually vape 5 - 6 different flavors every day, it doesn't get boring that way.

I received the Nano RBA heads today, I was not disappointed by the quality, they have the identical markings that the RBA that Kanger includes with the subtank mini, right down to the Kangertech logo. I replaced the installed coil with a .5 SS316L coil, everything worked great for a few minutes then I started to get dry hits. The design is the same as the original subtank RBA, and the juice channels are too small to allow for a good juice flow. The original RBAs that I have I milled the slots out to more than double the original size, and they work great now, I'm going to have to do the same with these. Overall I would have to say if you are capable of increasing the size of the juice channels they are worth the $12.00 that Slowtech charges for a package of 5.

TC can run titanium coils also some mods can run stainless steel coils in TC mode.

Welcome to VT good to have you.