FXRich

I used http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html? Using a 4mm ID, and using 26g 316L wire you would need 13 wraps to use 50w with a 1.2 coil, the same coil using 28g 316L would only need 8 wraps and 25w, unless the coil is a Clapton coil or some other multiple core wire. The only way I see that you could use 100w as listed on the coil is if you were using TC and used 100w as a initial wattage, and even that would be too high in my opinion, but just my opinion and not to be taken as fact.

All the 1.2 coils I have seen recommend 12 - 25 watts, I sometimes run 1.2 coils in a Subtank mini, and never go over 15 watts. A 1.2 coil is a 1.2 coil and doesn't matter who makes it they can only handle so much power. You will need 7.8 volts to run a 1.2 coil at 50 watts. Vaporfi is full of crap if they recommend 30 - 100 watts for a 1.2 coil, I had to look it up, and that's what they do recommend. You also should know they make more money selling coils than they do selling tanks, so the more coils you burn up the more money they make.

I make a Cherry Cheesecake flavor that tastes good to me, after it steeps for a couple of weeks. 5% Natural Cherry (FW) 10% Cheesecake (FW) FW Natural Cherry is a coil killer, I also have some FW Black Cherry, but haven't tried it yet. Seems like most of the Natural flavors are coil killers, so going to quit using them when I run out.

Find something to plug the hole in the pin, a small piece of O-ring worked for me.

TCR settings are used for temperature control, Baby Beast tanks use Kanthal coils, very few mods can use TC for Kanthal coils. Use watt mode.

If you turn the defroster on it will keep most of the vapor off the windshield, even in the summer I do that when the AC is on, hot or cold air blowing across the windshield helps a lot.

If I'm reading it right the child proof cap is on your Templar tank, that is the reason I don't buy tanks with a child proof fill, I'm too apt to grab a hammer. You could try to soak it in some very hot water, getting it hot might loosen it enough, other than that don't know what to tell you.

I don't like the favorites menu, have to open it twice to get to my favorites, once to get to bookmarks then again to get to the favorites. Other than that it works at the same speed as far as I can determine. I also have to consider living out in the sticks I can only get a 7 Mbps rate, and that's on a good day.

Don't know about other people, but I use distilled water in place of PG to thin juice. Water seems to be better than VG as a flavor carrier, don't know how it compares to PG.

NC also works for Kanthal, but the temp setting has to be very low or it will be too hot. Not something I do regularly, but have tried it.

NC is for Ni chrome, I have that setting on my Kanger mods, and it does work. I prefer SS but have tried NC using Ni chrome coils.

I keep my excess juice supplies in the freezer, none of it has froze yet. If the temp outside gets cold enough to freeze vape juice, I'm not going outside for longer than a minute or two. PG is used as a deicer for airplanes, that's where the idea that e-juice contains anti freeze comes from.

510 connectors on tanks can vary in length, if it is too long it can cause a short, too short and it may just barely touch the center pin, and cause a high ohm reading. I have no experience with Smok tanks, maybe someone that has one can let us know about the 510 length.

I have the adjustable airflow on the KPT2 tanks that I have, even have a couple extra for the tanks that are still in the box that I have stashed away.

I currently use 32g kanthal to rebuild KPT coils, only get 4 wraps for a 1.8 coil, they heat up real fast.

I have and still use KPT2 tanks when I don't want to fog the room up, but the airflow doesn't come close to the airflow of the subtank mini. The thing about the Subtank mini or the Toptank mini is it comes with a RBA, if you use 30g kanthal its easy to make a 1.5 or above coil.

Just curious about the juice you are using, if vaping is illegal in your country, what are you using for juice? PG/VG ratio would be nice to know. Seems like if you can get a mod and a tank, juice wouldn't be hard to come by.

You would end up with 0.3mg, which is pretty much no nic juice.

Looks to me it's like a Subvod, but a little smaller.

I have 3 dual battery mods, the most reliable one so far has been a Kanger 120w, I rarely go over 30w, but I have had it since they came out. (2-3 years) I mostly only use dual battery mods at home because of the long battery life.

You may have trouble finding a Subtank mini, I think they might be discontinued, you probably should be looking for a Toptank mini which is the same tank but fills from the top instead of the bottom.

Here is a link to the best coil wrapping app on the net. http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html

For temp setting see your other post. I think SS316 is easier to work with compared to Kanthal, less springy and holds it shape very well. You will also notice it discolors very quickly, which doesn't affect how it functions. personally I don't use wire thicker than 24g, but we all have our own preferences, and what works for one person might not work for someone else.

That depends on the mod you are using, different mods read temp differently. One mod may vape good at 350f while another mod may vape good at 400f.

Not trying to spam anybody, but this link tells me Smok V12 uses a SS body with Kanthal coils. https://www.e-cigshop.co.uk/smok/tfv12-coils/