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Everything posted by FXRich
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A mech mod with a single 18650 battery will draw about 20 amps at 80 watts, so if you don't use a good 20A battery you may become a statistic. A 26650 battery has a higher amp ratting. Either way you would be much better off at 80 watts with a regulated mod. Most of the time someone blows themselves up is with a mech mod with too low of a coil resistance or a low amp drain battery.
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Reminds me of a snake oil salesman, never could watch this guy for more than 15 seconds. He's neither a scientist nor a doctor so I don't put any faith in what he says.
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cant decide on a tank! any suggestions???
FXRich replied to thinkineedhelp's topic in General Vaping Discussion
The Uwell Crown has had a lot of good reports, it also has SS316 coils and the mod you have chosen has a SS TC mode so that would be a good match. The tfv4 has had a lot of reports of bad coils from the factory. If you have a little patience someone will show up that has both tanks and can tell you more than me about them. -
I don't have any 25r Samsung, but I read that they are good batteries, I do have a couple of purple Efest 3100mAh batteries and they are marked 10A / 20A so I take it that they will go 10A continuous and 20A pulse, so they are not a good battery for high wattage. Most of my batteries are LG HG2 3000mAh, which are supposed to be a very good 20A / 30A battery.
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what is the best vape for clouds, quality, simplicity...
FXRich replied to myname's topic in New Vapers Forum
Pretty much all I have is Kanger stuff, and I'm not that impressed with the top tank, I prefer the regular Subtank mini. The new Kanger 75W TC mod is a very good mod, can't say much about the tank that comes with it though. I also have a Kanger 120w TC mod that works very well, both the 75w and the 120w are very versatile with TC modes for Ni, Ti, SS, and NiCr. You can also use the NiCr setting for Kanthal, but you have to lower the temp setting. I have tried it and it does work. What works for me might not work for you since I don't use factory coils, I only use the RBA with SS 316L wire, unless I'm experimenting. -
Those coils are SS316 you can use them in TC if you have a SS TC setting or you can use them in power mode. I'm not familiar with that mod so maybe someone will show up that has one and give you more info.
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I don't have a TFV4, but other people here do, If you have some patience someone that has one will show up. From what I hear about the TFV4 you probably are maxing your mod out or close to it. In my opinion you probably need a dual battery mod with at least 100w with good batteries, other people might agree or disagree with me but that's my opinion.
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Wanting to make juice that tastes like soda
FXRich replied to Pu$$yDestr0y3r9000's topic in DIY E-Liquid Recipes
I mix a Kahlua flavored juice, and also a Root Beer flavor, so yes you can. Most of the flavor suppliers have drink flavors. I use Flavor West, but there are others such as Loranns and TFA, and many others. Hopefully Comp will get in this, he's the flavor expert on VT. -
I mix juice for myself and for friends, some people have reactions to pg so I do mix a few non PG flavors. The 25% flavoring I use contains 45% alcohol, which means if someone vapes 10ml of juice a day they will consume less than 1 1/2 ml of alcohol which is not very much when you spread it out over a days time. The human body naturally contains alcohol, so they probably test for the amount of alcohol, not for whether there is alcohol present or not, much like a breath test.
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I may not be the right person to recommend something because all I have is Kanger stuff, except a couple of Davide tanks, which use Kanger coils. At the moment I'm using a Kanger 75w TC which is very user friendly. The Kanger TC lets you use a wider range of coils in TC Ni, Ti, SS, and NiCr, some say you can also use Kanthal when in NiCr mode. A Kanger Subox 75w TC Kit includes everything to get you started at a good price, except the 18650 battery. it even includes the RBA if you want to build your own coils.
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mailto:support@innokin.com Try this link they may be able to help you. Unless someone here has had the same problem we can't be much help. From what I have heard about that mod it has built in safety features that are unpredictable. I did find a video on the net that describes this problem, and said to fix it just simply plug the charger cord in and it will reset the display.
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User error caught up to me, I changed the coil in a Nano put a factory 1.2 horizontal coil in it chose new coil and fired it up, got my first burnt taste in TC mode. I forgot to change from SS mode to NiCr mode. Now I have some cotton to replace.
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Cany if you like uncomplicated you would like the Kanger 75w TC mod. In power mode you adjust the watts, and in TC mode the only thing that is adjustable is the temperature. When you put a tank on it you will be asked whether its a different coil, just push the yes button or the no button. The only user error I can see happening is to pick the wrong mode for the coil you are using.
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Welcome to VT we will answer your questions if we have enough info, and we are similar to the government and love to spend other peoples money.
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40mm don't leave you enough to build a coil, I had 83mm between welds. I wonder if the Kanger Clapton coils use NR leads welded on? I would dissect mine but plan on trying it some day.
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Yes mine had non resistance leads welded on, but I cut them off like you did. I sent Kanger another e-mail but not holding my breath for a answer. When I used the wire to build a coil and used steam engine the result matched predictions within 0.01 ohms using 26g 316L or 317L looks like I might have been wrong on guessing they used 304. one difference is I had 83mm between welds, they probably used a lighter gauge in your coil.
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I used a digital micrometer a little more accurate but I measured at 0.40mm and 26g I used my 75w TC mod to check resistance, and rechecked it with 120w TC mod, same reading, I also started with a .5 coil that came with 75w TC topbox kit. One thing we do agree on is its probably SS. I went a step farther and used my piece and made a coil the same way I make a coil with 28g 316L came out with .35 ohms, steam engine said it should be 0.36 ohms
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I didn't figure on using a ssocc coil that I have so I dismantled it. After cutting off the leads that were attached to it I ended up with 82mm of 0.40mm wire (26 gauge) I installed it in a Kanger RBA (1 big loop) put it on 75w TC mod in watt mode. I got a 0.52 reading. which closely matches what 317L would be. Nichrome would be about 0.7 SS304 would be about 0.45 and 316L would be about 0.47 So my unscientific study leads me to believe it is probably 317L or possibly 316L It is non magnetic so it can't be SS430. 0
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According to Sweet Vapes they are Nichrome, but other sites say they are SS, Kanger online say they are SS Vape NW hints at them being SS, Kanger doesn't respond to e-mails, My guess is 304 SS. Kanthal is magnetic, but Nichrome is not, so using a magnet to check them won't work. The only way to know is to measure the diameter, and check the ohms to see what the best match would be.
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After checking the Kanger Clapton coil with a magnifying glass I have discovered 3 of the 7 wraps are Clapton, I guess they are semi Clapton coils after all. The Clapton coils are Kanthal.
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I also have a Kanger 75w topbox mini, and the Clapton coil is not a true Clapton coil, it consists of a single strand of wire, a Clapton coil is a single strand of wire wraped with another wire, usually a lighter gauge of wire. I may have a defective coil that was put together like a normal coil, but don't think so. You can use the same coils that were used on the original Subtank mini, even the RBA. The RBA included with the kit has smaller holes than the newer version of the RBA for the Subtank mini. Other than that the mod itself is a very good mod. The ssocc coils are supposed to be SS so they can be used in TC.
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I'm glad to hear that, and I hope you get everything figured out, and let us know what happens.
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That's why we are here, vaping involves some learning I messed up a lot when I started over 2 years ago, and I'm still learning, you will catch on hopefully it won't take long.
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With a cotton wick you have to put a few drops of juice on the coil to make sure it is wet so the coil doesn't burn the cotton, either that or let it sit and soak up the juice for 10 - 15 minutes. A dry cotton coil will burn instantly when you fire it.
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Do you prime them when you replace a coil?